Yorik

Love the lateral support bars, nice and high!!

Yes he did... He also spent quite a bit of time with AJ (Andrew Jordan) of Speedworks, who has been known to drive some pretty 'sick' cars himself. AJ tuned my GTR the other day and the results are quite nice and safe. Speak to Croydon Racing and make sure you have a seat when they satrt giving you ball park figures, 'sick' GTR's will NOT be, by any means, cheap..

Never inject water or anything post throttle body unless you're doing direct port injection... There is heaps of information on this on the internet, I have a CAPA based system on my shelf in my shed, not going to fit it to my R, probably a bunky. The thing is always that the volume that you displace by the water needs to be taken into account by adding more fuel. Another thing to note is that just injecting water will actually make you lose power, unless you use extra advance or boost.. Research.. Like I said, heaps of information on this on the net.. While you're at it, look into Toluene addition to your fuel, it is by far a better option, but once again, you must run extra advance or boost to gain any increase in torque/power..

Similar thing happened to me a few years ago, after heaps of chasing I am still out of pcket about 6-7K.. But I am over that now, went nuts for a while, nailed everything in site, got in another long term relationship and now she is gone too, no loss this time though (once bitten, twice shy) but I am stuck in a town where there is 12 single guys to every single girl so basically no hope of picking up... Get a bunky car and flog it, until you can afford a nice car. Never sink money into a chick and never take em anywhere as they may seem strong but most of them can't move 5kms away from home without dying..

Get the flow map and check, it isn't ahrd to do and there is an excellent how to on this very website on how to read flow maps.. Get to it!!!

Although I recently put in a Parts Request for a TEIN EDFC and I thought I would do the right thing adn say that it was going onto an R32 GTR with Tein HA's already fitted, the reply was that TEIN don't make HA's anymore only FLEX or Super Street.. He didn't read the request at all, must be pretty busy.. Hoping to get a decent response by tomorrow, or I wont be including that in my order..

Be more specific, JUN Auto Japan? JUN distributors in Aus? The guy at the pub selling JUN parts? Nengun, Greenline, Taka?

I am not voting I do less htan 5000kms a year, infact my last car, I did 4000kms in 2.5 years. Add another option and I will vote.. Work cars are boringly slow, but have advantages.. eg Free!!

As above, I think might have got lost in the mail, been about a month since the "You're a member" email.

When I was in Perth on Firday night we did a little cruise and ended up at Trig Pizza, was good sh*t.. Comapred to the crap we get up here, that is fine ass pizza.. End Transmission

Comparable or not, the car still exceeded my expectations, especially considering the tune was done for Premium Unleaded only as I can't get any better fuel up here.. In terms of comparisons between Rollers and Hub dyno's the figures are going to be close, close enough that the sorts of differences you are looking at you wouldn't notice on the street. Say 10hp on a 400hp car.. Either way, AJ was quite good, listened to my plans for the car, my situation in terms of weather and use of the car (limited use, basically a once or twice a week toy) and tuned the car accordingly, he was also very free with advice and knowledge to my questions. I have no other experiences in Perth to compare this with, but I am assuming that most reputable places would be the same. My last car was tuned by Lumpy when he was at C-Red, and I was quite impressed with that tune, although I wasn't present for the tune, nor did I get to speak to him prior to the tune. My car survived some sever thrashing in the less then favourable Pilbara conditions and ran prefectly post install of my Tomei PONCAM's still holding good AFR's and everything running smoothly. BTW, that was a 180SX started off with 272rwhp and est 300 after cams (difference measured with GTech Pro Comp downloadable on road dyno. )

Well I thought I would follow up on my tuning experience at Speedworks.. My R32 GTR was tuned by AJ. With me being from Karratha, the car was tuned and then backed off a little to allow for some safety factor and headroom as Karratha is not really the perfect environment for performance engines.. I have a printout for 416.9awhp, and the car put down 2 consecutive 420hp runs, the car was hten backed off as mentioned above. Not having driven the car yet at all, I can not comment on the tune, but will be able to feedback on this once the car gets delivered to me...

Getting the new R tuned there on Friday, flying down for it too, will post results in another thread once I get them. I don't know what people are whinging about, there is no one and I mean no one up here that is even competent to provide a service, every time I ahve let my car out to anywhere up here it has come back with some form of mal service done to it.. I had to get service on my 180 due to warranty, no warranty on the R32 this time.. A little run down if I may: TNT smashed the car upon taking it off of the truck for delivery.. The smash repairer left 6 bolts only half in after fixing abovementioned damage. First service the dump was removed to fit EGT probe, snapped a bolt in turbo (this happens is cool) but when they put the turbo back on, they only put one nut on it, resulting story blown gasket, lots of squeaking, found it my self. Next service, threaded sum plug and must have only done up finger tight, resultant effect 2 litres of oil on driveway and a repair job for me while I was at it. Next service, vehicle is seen doing close to warp speed (in town I might add) by one of my good friends.. Next Service, threaded sump plug thread on ym nice new Trust Sump, (car was smashed only a weke after this so the sump came off and now has a heli coil in it, in a mates car) I just wanted my car to be released to a workshop/mechanic/repairer without it coming back in worse condition than it went in.. The nearest tuner, is Port Hedland, 250km/h away, they don't do 'imports' (they also classified a VL Turbo and import), and won't let cars on their dyno if the owner is present, you have to leave it with them and come back the next day... hrrmmm, not too sure on that one.. I also heard a rumour that they have let a car go on their dyno too, which would not be pretty I would say..

full face is good, if you are into 2 wheel action then you want nothing less.. I still drive in my full face helmet, all be it with heaps of vents as I live in the hottest part of Oz... I also got mine with enough room for my radio headset for the back-to-pit radio...

Not a good thing to be saying, by the time I was 21 I had been in more than 4 accidents, not as a driver I might add, but when you put yourslef in the situations, or you don't for that matter, shit WILL happen.. I have malformed broken ribs, scars and lost friends to show that no matter how cautious you are, the roads ARE dangerous.. I have personally done more defensive driving courses than most of the people on this forum, in my line of work we do another stage/refresher every 6 months.. Everyone else on the road is out to get you, if you drive with anything else in mind you will come out messed up.. Sorry to be critical, today is the anniversary of a good friends death from a car accident I was in.. When it hits home, it hits HARD and you don't forget....!

Buy a turbo timer witha plug in Harness and then you only have to connect the Ground...!!!

Advice-- Go to the FC-Datalogit website, this IS all explained.. There are some settings like temperature settings that can't be fully set with the hand controller, instead with FC-Datalogit, you can drop these values.. FC Commander can drop the fan turn on tmep to 95 deg, where as with FCDatalogit you can go below 70 deg. You can also hook up launch control for 0 km/h rev limiting. Go to the website it is all answered, all explained..

Yes the RNN14 has Quad's The rest of the questions, search Google dude..

Get him to try this linkl, I think it is correct.... Honda Forums

Okay, get a file, a spanner and a hammer.. Insert genitals in vice and strike with hammer... :wassup: Only kidding... :jk: Read on!! File two flat edges into the nut parrallel to one another, just the right size so that you have to get the spanner on my tapping in on with a hammer, it wll warp the nut a little and be a little awkward to get off, but it is probably already f**ked anyway.. am I right?? You will fo course need a replacement so take another one to a hradware store a get a few, you never know when you will need them.. :headspin:

If you want the Gear based learning function of the AVC-R then use the RPM signal, the functionality is not available if you are monitoring Injector D/C. It depends on your intended use, the AVC-R is a very powerful unit, most people under use it, those that do use the full functionality get what they paid for.. I personally used the RPM sensing and I used and tuned all the functionality of the AVC-R including the mostly unused Scramble Boost Switch. Gear based initial duty cycle is excellent for boost production and delivery in RWD cars also wind it back in 1st adn 2nd even in 3rd and spike 4th slightly for nice little blip of boost into gear..

I would definitely be interested in a pair of Black ones. Preferably with the logo being small, but either way they will either go on my car or chair at work...

Cartoys sell these as wella s the 52mm offset style guages, they have stpes unlike the GTR...

Unless you have to double clutch, ie. no synchro's, then there is no point in doing it... I frequently double clutch in synchro cars as I drive non synchro's trucks and other vehicles regularly so it is just habit. When I am really going for it, I never double clutch, I find that when I am driving slow, like I do in a truck, that it is more natural for me to double clutch.. If you think you are double clutchin properly and rev matching perfectly, then go and get oyur Truck L's and take a lesson in a non synchro truck you will learn very quickly that you most porbably are not doing it properly, what you are doing is rev matching to the wheels when you release the cluthc with the gears engaged, when in fact double clutching is used to rev match the input shaft of the gearbox to the layshafts for the gear you are selecting, so you are rev mathcing BEFORE you have engaged a gear.. There is a world of difference and in a non synchro it will become truly evident...

My Favourtie Engines In category Order 4 Cylinder NA Nissan L16 (the L block had a huge foot print, with the biggest conrods I ever did see.,..) 4 Cylinder Turbo Nissan SR20DET from S15 Rotary Mazda 13BTT Sequential setup.. 6 Cylinder Inline Turbo This was hard, I own an RB26 and think it is unbeatable but the 2JZ is one awesome engine.. so equal honors... Nissan RB26DETT from R34 Toyota 2JZ-GTE from RZ Supra 6 Cyliner Inline NA Chrysler Slant 225 (If it wasn't for the Over and Under head these things would ahve been unstoppable.) 6 Cylinder 'V' Chrysler 3.9L from 1990 V8 Cylinder Small Block Chrysler 340ci from E49 Charger (perfect bore to stroke ratio for block.) V8 Cylinder Big Block Chrysler 440ci RB Block V10 Cylinder Chrysler V10 from Dodge (basically the same engine as 340.. wiht two extra cylinders) You can probably tell I like Chryslers hey, spent a lot of time building them in my younger days..