BAMR33

The flanges from your old cat can be reused, but it would be just as easy to get the new cat welded straight in.

These cats do have to be welded in. However this can be easily performed by any muffler shop and shouldn’t cost more than $25. If your local muffler shop gets reimbursement for old catalytic converter you may even get done for cheaper.

MetalCat Metallic Substrate Catalytic Converter Cost: $285 + $10 for delivery (via Australia Post Parcel Post, Express Post is an additional $5.00) *edit* Flanged cats now available for an additional $66 per unit (r32 & r33 only) Starting date of group Buy: 26th May 07 Ending Date of group Buy: 19th June 07 *edit* groupbuy now ending at this earlier date MetalCat Metallic Substrate Catalytic Converter - 2.5â€, 3†& 3.5" Universal Fitment - with 12 Month Warranty from an authorised MetalCat dealer. Features 100% Stainless inside and out Uses a unique 200 cell p/inch high performance full metal catalyst Compact size for small and mid size cars and trucks Fully polished EPA and CARB Compliant [stamped] Heat Shield comes standard Stamped with CAxx Available in 2.5", 3" and 3.5" Metal Cat ships as a complete unit Outflows competition Ideal for forced induction vehicle The cat flows 534 cfm @ 28 inches of Mercury. RRP $419 Supplier: SportCompact.biz - Kristoffer Sheather [email protected] Delivery only, no pick up. $10 Australia wide via Australia Post Parcel Post, Express Post can be chosen if required for an additional $5.00. Looking for around 10-20 people for this group buy, please register your interest here and state what size cat you require i.e. 2.5â€, 3â€, 3.5†(inlet/outlet diameter). Regards, Brett.

even better.

standard turbo with steel wheels FTW and for the response.

Hey guys just wondering when people state they have they have a 'stock' rb30 bottom end ie. sky30, pus16, 88silhouette making big power. Do they mean untouched or rebuilt with stock internals plus all the basics things bearing, rings etc. Just want to get a few opinions, as I'm looking at building an rb25/30 as a spare engine/time filler and want to know what's best way to do it without breaking the bank and yet have something that will last.

Worth it, even though coughing up money for overpriced parts is hard. Modifying it yourself is half the fun providing you have the tools and knowledge to do it. So I figure as long as I do my research and take my time nothing will go wrong. Best option below for modifying an r33 gts-t without going over the top ie. after market manifolds, forged pistons etc. Standard hi-flow turbo at about 18psi Injectors Z32 afm Bosch 040 fuel pump PFC + good tune AVC-R Chinese Intercooler kit Cushion Button clutch Water Injection Adj cam gear This combo should see 250rwkW with reasonable response, excellent top end and good reliability for daily driving without being a pig. With labour done by yourself you should have change from $5000.

As for where to cut the hole, someone did have a DIY for it ie. measurements. That thing should be stickied somewhere because it's such a common question.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Intercooler-PIPING-...1QQcmdZViewItem Intercooler piping no intercooler.

Quote Garrett 'The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.'

E6Kdiagram.pdf

This pin out diagram may help if haltech is plugin (wouldn't have a clue myself), if not you'll have to get the pin out diagram for the E6K. You've got no worries with an after market ECU, as the signal is going out of the ECU. Just make sure you set the ECU rev-limit above the Bee*R rev-limiter always it might cause a complete cut of ignition and fuel and I don't know what would happen there, probably nothing. red - power black - earth green - ignition yellow - rpm white - clutch switch for anti-lag or handbrake wire for launch control.

There's only one thing that has changed - The tune. So chances are it's not going to be the aac, BOV or clamps because these were functioning fine before. Richening up the idle is more than likely going to make it worse as more fuel was probably already added at idle, even if it wasn't it's just stab in the dark. I wouldn't bother with self-learn again, just try bumping up the revs little by little until it idles stable. Optionally get your tuner to jump in the car on a hot day (worst for stable idling) and get him to do a street tune for economy and to fix the idle. It's far better than the fake conditions generated in the dyno tune.

Up the revs on idle, with stock settings it's too low. Mine only idles smooth at 750rpm. And on start up it idles at about 1000rpm.

Dude, I wouldn't be arguing about nitrous with 2rismo... He knows his shit.

1. Easy if you took off the cross-pipe to paint the covers, same thing you just undo another additional bolt take off a couple clamps. 2. Just stick some sort of plug in there with a clamp around it, alternative weld up a metal plug with a lip to stop it going into the intake. 3. If you still have have the black hose that returns to the to the intake you can just put a monza oil breather on it.

http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&...earch&meta=

When I did mine I just put hose scissor clamp things each side of the filter and put rags under where the remaining petrol from the filter would drop.

I probably won't and it doesn't really worry me, I just can't understand where their value comes from. I mean you could have bought a nice Porsche for that price and fulfilled your ego a little more. It looks similar to a liberty with that ugly grill that Audi puts on everyone of their cars.

And they still keep importing them, they have restrictions on the amount of some cars that can enter the country, why not skylines.

I don't see what the draw is for these cars. They're just an average looking 4 door sedan with a bit performance, that is way overpriced.

How? They allow more gases to be pushed out faster without the restriction of the ex valves starting to close. Why? Because, most people with an adj cam gear also have a big flowing exhaust which reduces back pressure reversing into the combustion chamber while the valves are still partially open. so this therefore this allows you to retard the ex cam more without the spent gases causing detonation and poor burn.

What BOV was the plumback? What intake pipe do you have, metal? If the BOV can be unscrewed (ie. turbosmart) you can put a spacer between the spring and the top of the BOV this will increase the springs tension. This should eliminate the 'kettle noise', as it sounds like the BOV is on the point of nearly being open as the boost increases. Or the valve could be a really poor seal on the inside allowing air to squeal past.

Haha, you've got a cefiro and you don't slide it... you must be one of a kind. How does HICAS 'STOP' over steer, it's impossible for a device with 1 degree of movement to eliminate over steer. All it does is smooth out corners for the average shit driver. While I had the HICAS in my car it was unstable a high speed (100km/h on highway), would wiggle around when coming over a crest, when cornering hard it would unpredictably snap into oversteer when I didn't want it to and generally just made the car feel less direct to drive. The idea of four-wheel steer is good but HICAS simply doesn't work and is no where near developed enough, especially the earlier Hydraulic versions.