BAMR33

Just make a flange to suit and weld it on. Any exhaust shop 'should' be able to do that...

Remember to use oil restricters for that n1 pump. Probably add adjustable cam gears to that list to get the most out of the cams.

Completely disconnect the safc all together, if the car runs fine the safc is stuffed. If the car doesn't idle normally with safc removed I'd say the stock ecu is stuffed. Do all the basic checks ie properly insulated wires, pin are not bent or disconnected, open the ecu check for fried electrics. I really think it'll be the stock ecu as you've probably shorted something when you turned the ignition with the incorrect wiring.

One is a GSS341 and the other is a GSS341HP, most dodgy traders sell people the GSS341 which is fine for standard cars, but for modified and larger capacity cars the GSS341HP(High Pressure) is required. Sorry by l/min I mean't l/hr... brain lapse .

lol, avgas ftw.

You can always sell the safc should you want to change the ecu down the track, but it will be more than adequate for the standard hi-flow and won't loose you 30-50rwkW as stated earlier. In the dyno results thread people are running hi-flows with stock ecu and achieving 200-220rwkW, it's just a safer idea to get it tuned with the safc. Find a genuine walbro pump with the higher L/min rating or a Denso pump from Kudos motorsport. 040's are a good pump put they're just physically to big for the r33 tank and if it's touching one side of the tank it will be noisy as hell.

You should spend 300 dollars buying mine.

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That's a good price for that car.

Don't be too scared of piggyback ecu's, people always hate what they don't have. Sure they don't give excessive amounts of features and are not fully programmable but you don't need it. The stock fuel map just needs a little adjustment and the base ignition timing can be advanced as needed with the CAS (not the most accurate way of adjusting ignition timing but still works well ). I have a PFC but thats because I do have after market injectors, afm, bigger turbo etc. And I bought one when they weren't extinct.

And why don't they have the track support... because not enough people are not interested. If drifting did bring the crowds I'm sure the tracks would be more than willing to help out. I'm sure as the current generation of drift fans get older and more younger people join the scene the sport will take off, just needs more time and more publicity.

PFC, yay I fit in with the crowd.

Is the PFC for an gts25t, as I know they've stopped making them for that model, weather they started production again is another thing... Nengun don't include the freight costs etc. to get you in, so it'd be more like $1100 if they actually have one. Your best bet would be a slide standard hi-flow ($1000? maybe), Apexi safc ($300) and a genuine walbro pump($250) + tune ($200). I say this because if you get anything bigger than a standard hi-flow you'll be looking at more like 4k as you'll need injectors, afm, clutch, pfc+full tune and other little unexpected expenses. With the combination I mentioned you'll be able to get most out of your car with the money you have right now. Plus it'll be responsive and capable of producing 220rwkW+.

Japan over does the whole drift thing as they've found a niche in the US market where they can not only advertise after market products but also jap cars i.e. 350z, rx8's... I think the success of drift in Japan was largely due to the infatuation of U.S. with the sport. As for drift being a family sport, if you advertise for something enough people are going go and what more advertising do you need than a big time U.S. movie such as Tokyo drift. And remember for the majority of the population, drift in Australia isn't really a sport. I know for one my Dad thinks it's all the young hoons that do skids on the streets that compete at the drift events and I think this how a lot of people over 30 see it as.

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lol 5 inch boost gauge...

Personally I would never sell out on jap imports for a euro, but if it suits your needs I suppose go for it. I guess we will all get old one day and feel the need to buy a crappy little fuel efficient FWD with safety plus+++.

A small amount of white smoke usually means the oil you're using is too light on start up. Fuel smells nothing to worry about, probably just the seal to the fuel tank/pump, as it's known to perish on the r32 over time. As for running lean that's bad... if you have a pfc or other ecu what knock reading are getting?

People that drive auto's are crappy drivers and manufactures design them larger to give them all the help they can. Nah, seriously I think it's that auto's used to be classified as luxury and only higher end cars had them and the bigger pedal signified the refinement and added benefit.

Measure the resistance for each coil with a multimeter if this value should differ more 15% for any given coil it's more than likely it's the culprit.

Report Kezza to the admins. He's obviously sold it to you knowing it doesn't work, why else would he have taken it off... If you mean the HDI boost controller below, it doesn't look too bad at all and would definitely do the job. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HDI-ELECTRONIC-dual...1QQcmdZViewItem

s14's look hot with an rb under the bonnet rather then the pissy little sr. I couldn't personally bare to see anything other than rb26 in a GT-R, but it would be an easier conversion. Did you see the GT-R rolling shell I posted a link to in your other thread...

Sorry, only read the title I thought you were talking about the stock boost gauge and sensor. Could be corroded parts if you got water in it. Pull the sensor apart and give all the metal parts a clean up with contact cleaner. If that doesn't work take it to an electrician as something has probably shorted out and they can test it for you. It's never a good idea to spray water under the bonnet either.

Makes it look like an rb25 in the thumbnail pics, needs a gt-r logo or something in the middle

*Awe* What is it really capable of time wise?