BAMR33

The actuator signal from the r33 is taken after the intercooler where the air is denser, this is the true pressure reading. The r32 takes the signal directly from the compressor housing, this is not a true pressure reading as it's not the pressure at which the air is entering the engine.

The boost solenoid on the avc-r doesn't activate until 30% duty cycle, so previously when you were running 11psi the avc-r wasn't doing anything. Generally in boosted cars when you free up the intake and exhaust you gain a couple psi, nothing to out of the different.

You'd be looking at another 300NZ dollars for the GReddy kit.

Just a thought it could be the plenum design thats at fault. As you've stated it's the last three cylinders that have been fouled this is an indication that there is A) too much fuel being delivered to these cylinders B) to little air being received by the last three. Chances are you're not going to have 3 faulty injectors feeding too much fuel, even more unlikely 3 faulty injectors that happened to be from cylinders 4,5&6. I read this somewhere 'It's not when the car is on boost you have to worry about uneven air distribution, it's when it's in vacuum'. This makes sense as it's when the car is in vacuum that each cylinder scavenges for air and first three are obviously going to scavenge more than the last three especially with a plenum design that is really narrow and low in volume. This scavenging effect is only going to get worse until positive boost is generated, where it doesn't matter a shit anyway because the air just gets feed in there. Many, many people I know and have read about on this forum have had problems with custom plenums and idling issues and I think a lot of it can be put down to uneven air distribution. A tune is never going to completely fix this unless you some how tune each injector relative to the amount of air that's entering that camber. Alternatively you can 'trial and error' tune each injector until a stable idle is found. New design or standard plenum FTW.

No, I just bought a normal opposed entry/exit intercooler and made up my own SS piping. Happy with the results, but I'm now considering upgrading to a big (at least 100mm thick, custom end tanks etc) side mount intercooler with shroud and supporting water injection just for something different.

Lag is not that bad with the standard slide hi-flows, for the small amounts of loss in response there is big time gains in both mid-range and top-end power. Even if you feel it is a bit laggy there are cheap ways of improving response without breaking the bank ie. Retarding ex cam gear, advancing base ignition timing with CAS adjustment, high-flow cats, high flowing mufflers etc. The power difference is very noticeable, boost hits hard and keeps on pushing rather than plateauing like the standard turbo's do.

Nah, give them to St Vincent de Paul or something for kids that actually deserve bikes.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=153972

I have the pipes returning to stock in/out. But on a mates car, I just aligned the pipe work first and then positioned the intercooler after. With the silicon hoses there is a little leniency for difference in installation so don't be to worried. Just trial fit over and over until your happy and ready to cut the hole in the inner guard.

CAI's are a waste of time, especially when you have a large front mount. They just confine the amount of air the engine can suck in. When you're traveling along at speed it's not like the hot air from around the turbo is going to travel backwards towards the air intake...

Slide hi-flows are journal bearing and require a mod to the oil feed line to fit, easily done at home with a bench drill and a welder. Just go to the trader section for more info on slide hi-flows.

Ebay is good for prices. When I say tune, I mean up the boost a little to take advantage of the hi-flow. So you'll probably just need a bleed valve, only an extra $30. There's a DIY on installing SAFC's so you could also do that to save a little cash.

Yep, it's possible you just have to muck around with mounting position a bit. Just make sure you secure it well so it doesn't move into the path of the fan.

Don't bother with a front mount or after market clutch if you haven't got that much cash to play with. An r34 side mount intercooler is always a good up grade for up to 220rwkW. A high flow is a better option than putting another standard turbo back on because it might break in month, you just don't what condition it'll be in. A direct replacement if you mean aftermarket will be far too expensive. The cheapest way out of it: standard turbo $300 + $300 labour (maybe, not sure though) The most sensible way out it: Slide standard hi-flow $890 exchange + safc $210 + 300 labour + tune $200. As for shops just ask around, friends and other skyline owners.

Busted exhaust manifold gasket as smurf80 says is more than likely the problem. If you're in the market for a hi-flow cat check out the group buy in my signature, you'll have a hard time finding a cheaper hi flow metal cat.

http://www.thesupplyline.com.au/shortlist1.html Give these guys an email.

haha, the bikes were never there...

Standard hi-flow and fuel computer + tune. It'll be a bit over the thousand mark but the best option.

I'm sure they'd work fine, it's not like the traders are going to sell something that doesn't work. I know I'd rather defi just for the brand even though they're pretty much identical to the saber gauges.

I'm considering replacing mine just because they look like shit, all faded and rough I want new black smooth ones. So Nissan is the place to get them yea?

If you fill up when the car is already hot a lot of pressure builds up in the tank and seeps past the rubber seal for the fuel pump, the fumes then enter cabin. however if you can't smell any signs of fuel fumes in your boot and you can under the bonnet it will probably be a deteriorated hose or loose hose clamp.

You can always pick a car that has no cat when traveling behind... Cops aren't totally stupid either, if something smells odd they'll make no hesitation in pulling you over and either defecting you on the spot or sending you in for a machinery. Best bet get a good quality metallic cat converter

My view of jap style.

The problem you'll face will be the expense. Neo engines aren't cheap and don't make that much more power than the earlier rb25's. If you're asking questions like 'how to wire it up' etc. I think you'll run into big troubles carrying out this conversion. You should consider working the rb20det, by the time you add all the costs together for the conversion you could have an rb20 with a reliable 240rwkW+ and still have money money left over to reco the gearbox if needed.

What mods has your car got?