BAMR33

No, a lot of people run no BOV. ....Unless something breaks in the BOV and gets sucked into the engine that could blow the engine up, but that isn't going to happen.

195

I'm not sure, you'll probably have to ask Sydney Kid or someone else knowledgeable in that area. If the tyres have already started wearing on the inside it's too late to correct it.

Wrong section but anyway, if your suffering from excessive inner wear on tyres you've probably had your car lowered. This wear is caused by too much negative camber to fix this you will need camber kits front and rear.

Common sense will help you get through it, the kits do allow for some leniency so you do have to be 100% spot on (maybe 95% lol). Just use the guide in the DIY section for where to cut the hole for the piping. Once you have all the piping setup you can judge where the intercooler will go and make front bar cuts from there.

I just read through this thread too. Someone said earlier it doesn't stop pining it changes the frequency and the sensor can't pick it up as audible detonation. Would this be true? if so wouldn't toluene be doing damage...

My Gts-t did a 8 second 1/4 mile with a rolling start of 160km/h .

Repco would be the cheapest, the specialist hose places ie. Pirtek like taking you for a ride.

Mine is clearly displayed near the middle air vents, and it always gets impressed reactions from people who haven't been in the car before. I have a second car so I don't have to worry about idiots stealing it

Wow... that's a really unlikely scenario. Again why not use your foot as mentioned earlier to control the power output like the rest of the motor sport world.

Weiand 8/71 roots supercharger .

I'm fairly sure 'spool' is trader on here, so you may be able to get them cheaper through the trader section.

Yep they're awesome, great quality product. Just remember to tighten the hex bolts before fitting... I may have forgot/neglected and caused myself some grief . No damage though so it's all sweet.

Dump pipe for sure. How much is 'little money'. If I had my time again I'd do the suspension first, such a difference and I didn't think it was too expensive (SK group buy). Response from the standard turbo's generally can't be improved on that much, because they are designed for response. You could try all the little easy things like CAI with multiple intakes etc. But besides that your going to have to look at turbo upgrades and injectors etc. which start to get expensive quickly.

Scramble boost is just added wank to make EBC's look more feature filled. All it does is bleeds off extra air resulting in more boost across the rev range (probably not safe either as you car would not be tuned for the additional boost and could cause the engine to run a little lean). However if you mount the button to your steering wheel and add blue interior neons you have far better chance of being in the next fast and the furious. A useful function to look for in an EBC is RPM and gear based boost control. It basically just keeps the boost where you want in whatever gear use choose.

I have seen guys get defected for the standard, aftermarket and no BOV so you can't win...

Your tune will be fine, regarding the battery. Wouldn't hurt to get a $100 check up on the dyno after the exhaust, less back pressure can have differing affects to your tune.

You must love the blue screen as much as I do 'sinistagtst'. lol I'd say if you get an EBC make it an AVC-R for the cool/wank factor.

EBC's do not bring boost on earlier, they just hold boost at your desired better without dropping and rising boost levels. It results in more consistent power and makes it easier on the tuner. If your having troubles with building boost, it could be something to with wastegate actuator. Older ones start to loose their tension after years of work. A Good replacement would be the HKS adjustable wastegate actuator.

Apologies to Epolly and anyone on the forum that was offended by my remarks. I was rather wasted at that time (note to self don't make drunk posts in the future).

Never heard of PFC, my 10 year old sister knows what a PFC is...

Average power is so much better than top-end power. IMO screw anything bigger than a hi-flow for a street driven car.

I'll have to give the 1.2mm shim a go. Thanks. So you just order the shims at Nissan dealers right?

Cubes, what do you feel you should have put in rather than the one 0.80mm shim? I'm currently looking at carrying out this mod and was wondering what would be a good compromise regarding shim sizing/number of shims for daily driving and some track/spirited power over-steer. I really don't want something that's going to bound around when driving and screech every time I go into BP on their nice shinny concrete floors. Also what does the shim on spider gear side do? why couldn't you just put a thicker shim on the one side? Does it help give more even lock or something... Big cheers to Trust33 for writing this comprehensive DIY .