BAMR33

Na, doesn't damage it too much (it will do damage if you just leaving it sitting on the limiter for ages). It happens because the rev limiter works by cutting fuel, which causes the afr's to momentarily lean out. The PFC reading only measures the maximum knock, average knock would be a much more useful reading here.

OMG, I checked over the cam gear today and it was in the full retard position. I must have been a bit ambitious to get the gear in and forgot to tighten the keys. I got lucky and I don't think I did any damage judging by a test drive. Lesson to be learn't for idiots like me, take your time and check everything.

Must be a series 2 option. i have seen a few before and they look similar to the type m series 1 grill.

Has anyone got a downloadable version of this manual. I have searched and looked in FAQ's to no avail. Could someone upload a version or post a link to where I can get it from. Cheers, Brett

Not that loud, but the noise does sound like its coming from the general direction of the head. Would anything else like timing make this noise? No missing, no backfiring. It doesn't make sense I didn't think it would run either if it bent valves.

Hi guys, Very worried at the moment, I have just installed an exhaust side adjustable cam gear and on starting the car I can now hear a tapping sound that wasn't there before. Would this be the sound of valves coming in contact with the pistons? I made sure the crank angle sensor was marked in position before removing, I marked the belt and gear to make sure the new gear went back into the correct position. Is there any thing else that I could have moved that would have caused this? My only thought is maybe it dropped a tooth on the harmonic balancer, which would put everything out??? HELP!!

OMG you are so f*k'n funny

I live in a backwards redneck town and the aftermarket parts shops and car yards we have are way over priced, so really I have no choice but to buy off the internet. This is a very trust worthy forum and I have personally bought and sold heaps of stuff off of hear no probs. However there are totally shyte forums that I'd never trust ie. Boost cruising, NS.com

VL for sure, at least you know your driving something that is at least partially Nissan. VN's had so many problems that weren't fixed until the later VP model.

Haha someone should link this thread to that topic in the ls1 forum

What do you guys think? btw pics don't do it justice

Needs to be lowered...

Where's the noise sound like its coming from? could be anything but probably leaking gasket or poor weld, since you just got a new muffler put in.

Small version of a hack saw works, but before you start hacking into it make template out of paper and apply the template to each blade with a nikko. Once these are cut neaten it up emery paper. You will see on the stock return piping (the side with the BOV on it) there is a nipple that goes to the boost solenoid, if your FMIC kit has an identical nipple here you won't have to put one in. How ever if there isn't go down to Repco and get a nipple the same diameter as the stock and tap it into the new intercooler piping about where the stock one was.

Don't waste the money you probably don't have anyway. Buy something that is already fast it'll end up costing the same once you've bought all the little unexpected's along the way. If you really are serious about it you should just import a modified front cut and just transfer the whole package straight over. If your asking 'what turbo and what injectors etc' to use, do you really think you're capable of completing this project...

I use a Hybrid 450x300x76 tube and fin, standard inlet one side and outlet the other. No pics as of yet probably take some this week end and post them up as I have to take the front bar off again anyway.

The biggest problem with this type of piping is the tight 180degree bend that has to be made to fit between front bar chassis. I have made my own piping that returns to the stock inlet/outlet and increased lag isn't really noticeable.

No I don't have a blu-ray burner, thats why I said 'mod chip and games' :sorcerer: .

I'm gonna wait until someone can hook me up mod chip and cheap games. I think the PS3 is priced alright, just don't want to pay $100 and over for a game that might be total shit.

The cooler would still be effective for a while even if it was fully enclosed. The problem is the cooler cannot dissipate heat as fast as it conducts it. So removing front the middle section would have minimal gains. I'd say even with my setup the majority of the airflow would still find its way through.

Bah, the intercooler is only really a heat sink and that's all you can expect from a hybrid special. Cutting out the front is really only prolonging the inevitable (heat soak). I intend to use water/meth injection in the near future to combat this. Although I'd still like to cut the bar out, as I'm seeing higher engine temps due to the lack of air flow to the radiator.

Stealth Installation

If my old man drove an rb I'm sure it would last at least 1 million km. He's had a starfire four sunbird since new, now with over 600,000 kms original motor original gearbox. So I guess it comes down to how you drive the car. I f**ked the motor of an excellent condition vp commdore in under 10000kms, probably would have lasted ages too if didn't so many burnouts and grass skiing sessions.

Piece of piss installing this cluster. They come with really good instructions if they're the ones off ebay.

Where's the real mods, you only have supporting mods. Put a bigger turbo on it + ECU + Injectors = something like you are after.