BAMR33

Maybe it stands for the chemical element Rubidium.

So you're wishing you didn't spend your money a huge ass bling camber

Probably not the best idea, I think the biggest problem would be uneven air distribution to each cylinder causing some to run lean and the others to run rich. If you look at the GReddy plenums the first three runners face away from the front of the plenum and the last three gradually face in the direction of the plenum and the plenum tapers down to combat the distribution issues.

The two middle wires out of the four connected wires are ground, solder these two and go from there. The ground wire for your original afm should be white with a blue stripe

What heat range spark plugs are running? Also try running the car without the plastic valley cover and insulate metal plates with electrical tape.

for fuel injection cars:)

The kits don't fit standard airbox in. If you wanted to keep the airbox you'd be better off to just cut away a section of the wider rubber intake and replace with SS. With kit I bought the BOV return didn't even line up, so I'm wishing I would have just made my own up. Seriously, all they are a 90degree piece of stainless

All you need is a 90 degree 3inch SS bend with a 3inch straight silicon hose and 3-2.5inch silicon reducer. Plus you'll need to weld in a return for the BOV and also buy a Super cheap Monza oil breather. This is all the kits are, and it won't cost you the $170.

Yep, there's gains to be had as the internal diameter of the standard TB is 2.3inches take away the surface area of open butterfly. Buy the latest issue of Autosaloon, there is a good issue on upgrading a throttle body on a 33. They had gains of 10rwkw by memory, although it may be bias as they're advertising for the TB as well.

As you've said 'z32 afm, injectors, fuel pump' all required to make 250rwkw.

You will need to re-calibrate the gauges. I'll try'n find a thread how to. Also try to remember where your fuel needle was because it's essential to get your petrol gauge accurate. I'm surprised the kit didn't come instructions covering this.

Big side mount intercooler - reduced piping, lower pressure drop. Pre-turbo water/methanol injection ex-cam gear de-cat tune

I choose PFC because of the research I've done over last couple of years (as I have not previous had any hand on experience with ECU's). The biggest 'for' in my eye's is it's the cheapest fully programmable Japanese ecu meant for Japanese cars. I also love the plug and play ability and neat handle controller that can monitor multiple functions. My tuner also has FC datalogit, which is a big plus. I can't see how anyone with skyline would choose anything different for your average to high HP streeter. My only criticism for the PFC is need to retain the AFM (Even though that's mainly Nissan's fault anyway. AFM=gay).

Well an oil cooler has got to be better than no oil cooler. Just an idea don't list the traders name when complaining, does nothing for no one.

Boycott NRMA every chance you can, they deserve to be run into the ground.

Every actuator has different amounts of wear etc. so trial and error is the only way. Start off at a lower duty cycle and work your way up from there.

A multimeter is your best friend.

I think a stock r33 would go well without an intercooler all together.

That's assuming your using GT-R injectors of course random santa... Hi Five!

Resistor pack, fuel rail, ECU and a lot of wiring. Don't buy the first thing you see, there's plenty of other better options available for r33 gts-t ie. s15 and rx7 injectors both are side feed, high impedance and relatively cheap. Old GT-R injectors aren't worth the mucking around.

pfc

I actually missed a bit of detail in that note the hose needs to be in a loop to prevent gravity draining. I didn't see any point pulling out the rear check valve because I wanted to keep the functionality of the rear spray nozzle and taking the rear seat out is a pain in the ass.

And no, probably not the smartest thing to continue driving.

$300 for rb25 turbo and a heap in labor cost to swap it over or DIY and save moneyies

Everyone's talking about setting up the water spray to activate at a certain RPM....Why? By the time the water has any affect on the intercooler temp you've already gave your car a smash and are back to average sort of revs. The only place the rev based activation would be of any benefit would be on the track when the motor is consistently hitting high revs. An intecooler is just a heat sink, so it makes more sense to spray the intercooler before and during times of high reving, this way the intercooler is already cool and maintains similar temps. The setup I am currently installing is an el-cheapo spray that I think will match the performance of the retail kits available (without the big cost). It will be activated by a switch when you need it ie. hot days and high revs etc. The kit comprises of: 1 x Windscreen washer kit (Part No: W501) 1 x Rocker Switch (Part No: 62055BL) Both of these items are available from repco for fairly cheap. Other hardware you may need includes a couple meters of wire, various connectors, electrical tape, solder and soldering iron. To fit the kit: 1. Find a suitable place to fit the switch, I have mounted the switch on the random little plastic square on dash near the dimmer switch. 2. Once mounted splice one wire from the switch to constant source of power. I used the digital clock it has four wires on the connector, the red wire closest to steering wheel is wire you want to use. 3. Connect a long a stretch of wire onto the other tab on the switch. Run this wire through the firewall and connect it to the positive side on the washer pump. 4. Set the washer tank up where you want it, I put it just below the original washer tank (You will not be able to put it here if you have hybrid style piping for you intercooler). And then run the negative terminal to factory earth for the original windscreen washer. 5. Next find a suitable place to fit the spray nozzle. Mount the nozzle in direction and place that is most likely to cover the largest area without sticking out too much and being ugly. The finer the mist, the larger the surface area covered by the mist, which equals lower temps. I’ve decided to do something different to the nozzle method. I have chosen to use pin to punch small holes in the clear hose, this allows for a number of spraying points and perfect fine mist and yes you will have to close off the end off the hose. 6. Test it out. Yay. Note on installation: You will either have to purchase an anti-drain back valve or run any section of the clear hose higher than the washer bottle to prevent gravity draining.