BAMR33

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=140970

Internal as per first post.

Ummm... the ticking could just be the metal cooling. That's if it's not audible while idling.

A plenum isn't exactly the most complex piece of gear... I can't see how they can go wrong if they are essentially just copying the GReddy item. I have bought one of the copies from the group buy a while ago and I think it 'looks' really good for money. Far better then some huge stainless steel box bolted onto the lower half of the stock intake manifold. My thoughts anyways.

Yeah, thanks big time. BBBIIIIGGGG effort on you behalf much appreciated

Yes, you do need a turbo timer. I look 37.9583% more hardcore walking into macca's on thursday night while the car turns its self off. jj.

bump...

r33 GT-R ftw r34 GT-R if I win the lotto r32 GT-R if other two are unavailable. Older than 89 I don't care for neither latter than 2002 (z-tune last made in 02??? oh, well whenever they finished production)

$175!! common someone buy it, very cheap at this price.

Cut the rear springs in my commodore to the point the towing bar was scrapping on the ground.

QLD

As stated 1xGenuine Bosch 040 internal fuel pump, $175 brand new. Cheap as, don't miss out. Regards, Brett.

And then I lol'd.

Look up some DIY's and then have a go

Block the BOV off.

Haha, I should but I think I lost it. Isn't that noticeable without the bright flash from a camera anyway.

looks like a really good guide. Maybe E-Manage Ultimate will be next ECU to dominate SAU...

Yep tru^^^. Tyres are the ONLY important part. My mate had near bald tyres in his carby corolla and could spin from first into second for a bit. It also did 4th gear burnouts with the help of oil. Haha totally irrelevant just had to say.

Yeah, you're install is pretty damn good. Some of the others I've seen look like crap. Wasn't a big deal at all. To weld the 90's I just took it an exhaust shop and asked them to TIG weld the tightest 180 they could. No other welding was required except for the lips to hold the hoses on. I welded the lips with an arc welder pretty easy. I used silicon bends where needed as my welding skills...arr...hmm...to be desired. Mount the intercooler how you want it and take the measurements from there, cut the stainless lengths with a drop saw and then test fit. Slightly over estimate the lengths if anything, as metal is easier to cut off then add back on. I Don't have pictures yet may be able to get some up soon depending on my level of lazy. I'm hoping for 250rwkW once i get mine tuned, I think the 450 core will be fine.

Yes that's what I've done and I think my design is little better suited to the application than the blitz kits. I can mount my cooler as low as I want without the return pipes being below the front bar. With the blitz kits you either run the risk of hitting gutters etc. pipes too low or having an ugly gap between cooler and front bar.

Have you sold the 26 that spun the bearing? What condition was the gearbox and transfer case in prior to the motor letting go?

IC $150 (450x300x76) Straight Stainless steel: $50 (2m but you won't need all of it just good to have in case) Stainless 180 bend: $50 (two 90's TIG welded) 90 bend $25 (two of) Assorted Silicon Hoses (2x90, 2x45, 2xstraight, 2xreducer 3-2.5. around the 60 mark all up from memory) Assorted Clamps 2.5 & 3 (Repco cheap as) This is what I have done and it works well.

It's acceptable, mine has reached the 80's too when accidentally hitting the rev-limiter. If you really want to fix it just get a Bee*R rev-limiter. Was it hot day by any chance when this occurred?

Wooop's 'Yes or No'. No.

It's not going to make any difference except perhaps idling in traffic. The biggest problem with the r33 smic is the small internal area in which air can pass through the tubes. It causes a restriction on airflow and I'm sure if your running more than stock boost a straight pipe replacing the intercooler would work better. Your best bet would be to get a really thick smic .