BAMR33

I'm sure you'll find a use for the extra intakes ie. CAI, Brake ducts, Gearbox cooler, trans case cooler. The one at the side could be to vent air out to reduce drag. I don't know just guessing

All I did was unbolt all close supports to the waterlines and gently bent them into place. To get any flutter you have to block off the BOV. It is noticeably louder on the induction side, no difference to the exhaust note. My experiences with the slide turbo anyway. On a stockish PFC map the turbo is dreadfully laggy (obviously) but still hits boost hard. defiantly needs a tune ASAP.

NA_R33 (John P) has a methanol injected supercharged VH45 running 10's. It was the one at jambo. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5764&st=320

AFM needs cleaning

Yep, you've gotta wait a couple seconds for the PFC to do anything. I think pressing across to the right sets, It took me ages to figure it out too.

I agree slide max oversize plus supporting mods. He's taking orders again tommorow 4th of April???

Advancing the the ex cam makes the valves open earlier, not stay open longer because the duration the valves are open is dependent on the profile of the cam and that does not change. A quote from somewhere: 'Where the turbo engine will gain most from cam gears is by retarding the exhaust cam shaft. Normally manafactures like to advance the cam more than optimum for peak power because their highly restictive exhaust manifolds and systems can force hot gases back into the cylinder, promoting detonation. Start retarding the exhaust cam a couple degrees at a time and watch the power climb, particularly if the engine has a larger exhaust housing on the turbo or an extremely low-restriction exhaust system.'

Get a low low mount turbo on an N/A registered car, water injection no intercooler, they'll never know. Just keep it subtle and keep the induction noise to minimum. My idea for my brother when he gets his license after the new Qld laws come in.

Symptoms of air in in the coolant system and the resulting problems. It's either the head gasket or cracked head you can only hope it's the first one.

Nope, you guys got it the wrong way around. Have a read of previous threads on retarding exhaust cam. Plenty of information about it and you don't even have to start a new thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...stable+cam+gear

??? What do you think the Nissan oil gaskets are made out of... I think the correct word for the 'Gasket paper' is oil jointing paper. But Repco or however are going to get the point when you ask for gasket paper for an oil line.

Retarding the ex timing after mods ie. turbo, hi-flowing exhaust etc can give noticeable gains in all the categories mentioned by you. Advancing ex timing will make less power, torque, response etc. but also make the motor less prone to detonation. If your car is stock it's not worth touching full stop, if your car is modified an adjustable cam gear and tune is a far better idea than DIY CAS adjustment and hope for the best.

1. Just use gasket paper, it's not like it has to perform the most complicated task. 2. Risk: Slight chance it might leak (unlikely IMO) worse case you have to put a new gasket in. but it should be perfectly ok, everyone that uses a slide hi-flow generally reuse this gasket

Sounds a bit high, but saying that to replace the timing belt the radiator has to be taken out and harmonic balancer removed and they also need to cover they're arse's if something happens (like accidentally putting a hole in the A/C condenser, which I saw happen recently at a workshop). There is a DIY somewhere of how to do it and having the workshop manual also helps.

They were first made to prevent older oils from burning up in the oil lines in journal bearing turbos. You don't have to worry about this these days as the semi and full synthetic oils are more resistant to losing their lubricating properties in extreme temperatures. It's still a good habit to let your car idle for 30 seconds anyway.

If he has S2 spitfires he may need a S2 ecu.

Possibly a water pump bearing etc. Did the noise start to occur after leaving the car sit for while (a week or more)?

Sounds like more wastegate issues.

I own an r33 gts-t and have driven an r34gtt. I prefer the r34 slightly in every department but would not pay the extra money for one. Saying that my mates S2 r33 was very similar ride and feel to the r34, so I reckon just keep the series 2 if your already happy with it.

Does your system have a resonator?

Considering something like that, but I still don't know what they sound like so I would be buying blindly. Anyone used HiTech mufflers? http://www.hitechmufflers.com.au/contact.html

Any drone I have an X-force cannon at the moment and it's awful.

The wastegate may not be flush up against the housing surface. To test this get pliers and pull the actuator rod towards the front of the car. If the rattling stops you'll know it's the wastegate. This can be fixed with an adjustable wastegate actuator.

I'm after a nice sounding muffler for my r33 (no cannons). I want it to be fairly subtle twin-tip if possible and have a 3 1/2" or 4" input. Oh and 'relatively' quiet. Anyone have or no of a muffler that fits this description? Cheers, Brett