Silver-Arrowz

Change the ECU to a programmable one like Power FC, or get a Apexi RSM and plug it in to the factory computer. People say cut wire 52 or 53 but some say it plays funny games with the car.

Oh yes, your right there. Forgot about that. R33 ECU is not tunable. With the Power FC it simply changes the voltage signal to whatever the z32 is. I'm thinking that the SAFC can adjust the A/F mixture to suit it, since it taps into the air flow meter anyway.

With a SAFC you should be able to run the Z32 AFM. Can someone confirm this. The standard ECU is tunable and in my opinion, would give you more power output than just the SAFC because the SAFC adjusts the air/fuel mix, not the ignition timing. If you tune the ECU, you tune both A/F and ignition.

I'm with justcars and I'm paying about 20 bucks more. And mine a 32 gtr. Don't ask NRMA cause they won't touch you.

Hehehe.... Welcome to the club man! Did that with my WRX before. Gave myself the "goose of the day" crown for that. :bonk:

1. Is the Power FC plug n play? I just need to drive the car to the place where it's gonna get tuned. 2. Also if it is second hand, does it have the mapping of the previous car, or can you reset it? Thanks in advanced.

Thanks for the offer mate. But I'm already in the process of getting a Power FC. Hopefully I can get it up an running soon cause I really want to go on that cruise to Putty Rd in a GTR, not a automatic Toyota Celica.

The RSM is all good. I plugged it in directly to the battery and it came up fine.

Well, doesn't look good for me. See and you'll understand Silly thing I did If I can get a PowerFC up and running by then, then all is good. If not, then I may pull out or drive my girlfriends Celica, which totally sucks ass cause it's an auto with a sunroof..... However I will relay on any info on this cruise to my friends.

Thanks for that. I checked out the fusebox and one did blow. I replaced it then ran the ECU diagnostics test and the red LED is on, not flashing or anything. I think this means the ECU is dead. Can anyone confirm this?

Folks, I have something to confess. Just brought the RSM off Prank (thanks dude) and was hooking it up late in the afternoon. Anyways, getting dark and spliced the wrong wire and you know what happened. Bye, bye ECU. :uh-huh: Started smelling something burning and frantically pulling the wires apart. Now I have to put my plans aside for that MP3 player and an Aprilia RS125 I really wanted before Christmas, to get a Power FC. Anyone dealed with nengun before? Anyone eles anyone recommend? I feel really small right now.... :bonk:

Don't know if it is the same as the Ryco one but Z145a.

BP cause it's just down the street.

Optimax was reported to cause problems with the fuel systems in some cars and bikes. My old WRX went through 2 fuel pumps but I can't say it was Optimax. But I use BP, then Mobil, then Optimax.

It is in it's own way a better motor. 2JZ have more and better torque than RB26. Also more reliable cause it's doesn't rev as hard as the RB26. I assume it would also be expensive. I reckon the beat bargin motors going around are the RB20's.

DBA currently have a rotor specifically designed for club racing WRX's. Skylines are coming soon. I need a set bad cause mine are stuffed to the brickyard $hithouse.

Oil temp guage. R owners know hot the oil gets when they've been thrashing their cars around. GTS-t owners would be surprised how quickly the oil temp shoots up.

Unique have a cold air duct. Don't know about box.

The cheapest I've seen a GTR motor for is $6500. Add all the bits that you need plus fitting and you'll probably cry.

In the end it could only be a good choice. The SR in the US is popular, and tuning parts are more abundant than for the RB series. RB would've really been a head turner there, but running costs would prove prohibative. Maybe it's time you thought about moving to Australia....

About 130

I paid 400 but that was brought through a group buy direct from japan. The NA-S is one below NA-M. EBC was about 230 from croydon autosports.

I cooked a set of EBC green stuff on the track. And that's only after 1 day. Good street pad though. Not to hard on rotors. RB74 is very good for the track. But it is harsh on the rotors. Lasted me about 5 or 6 track days. Comp 9's are very good. Very harsh on rotors but it will stop when told to. They also don't last very long. Endless NA-M are almost like EBC Green stuff, but slightly better. Only lasted me 2 track days. But in terms of value for money, the EBC gets it. Bendix Ultimates are good on the street, but are not made for the track. Have you got yourself some braided brake lines? Probably best next upgraded on your brakes. If that doesn't satisfy you, then look at bigger rotor or caliper setup.

Are there any replacement for the guages in a 32 GTR centre console. I'd like one with PSI boost guage, not that hg/mm stuff.

Who gives a damn pushrod, rotory, single cam, twin-cam, single turbo, twin turbo. A fast car is a fast car. Respect it. Look at the Porsche excluding the current generation. Up until a few years ago they were still running SOHC and 2 Valves per cylinder. You cannot ignore that.