Rolls

dunno what happened but today the tyres are noisy as f**k now, definitely wheelspin, must have looked like a dickhead driving to work Lol wooooo new tyres o clock, still got 60% tread and are federal 595SS evos so not exactly bad tyres either, were great when new, oh well.

Isn't what boost you want to run + rear housing size the main deciding factor with how to choose the gate size?

never heard of one breaking, if it is bad enough you are considering shimming it there is nothing to lose anyway. In my opinion just get a proper 1.5 way nismo LSD.

I'll take it up the freeway sometime soon and flatten 5th at 2k all the way until past peak torque, if it doesn't slip then I know it is not clutch.

Dropped 3rd at 4k doing like 30-40kph for fun, lots of tyre noise and it went sideways, gonna say it is the tyres/diff.

1 degree isn't much. After my car had been tuned I did a road tune to get it 100% with someone listening with knock ears. It was a 28c day, not exactly hot and we gave it a bit of a beating then left it idling in traffic for about 5-10 minutes, then we revved out 3rd on the freeway, pinged its tits off, had to pull 3 degrees from peak torque to stop it doing it. If you have some sort of knock equipment and actively monitor it then sure, go for gold, just don't set and forget it. If you are pulling a few degrees and adding fuel when racing then that is what I was talking about, leaving a margin for error.

This is the issue though, this leaves NO room for error. Your fuel pump has a small hickup, the temps increase 5 degrees up from the temperature you tuned it in, your turbo pushing 1-2psi extra on a super cold night, or you run the motor flat stick at 5k for 10 minutes around the track pushing the temps up above anything you ever saw on the dyno, or the fuel is a few octane points lower due to a bad batch and POP GOES YOUR MOTOR because it started detonating due to running lean or the temps/boost being higher than you tuned for. You need to set up intake temp trim tables and bump the boost up a bit extra and make sure the maps are correct, road tune as well to touch up any odd load points that weren't ever seen on the dyno and even then you would want to still wind it down a bit for safety and longetivity. You need to cover every single possibility for tuning on the edge if you want the motor to last, or just leave a large safety margin AFR and ignition wise and know that if any of the above happens you will be fine, tuning on the edge is a bad idea.

nismo 2 ways are very mild, boss are good blokes if you get them to set up the preload fairly slack it won't clunk at all and will be fine for a daily car edit: By mild I mean it won't clunk, it will still lock up perfectly every time, better than that rubbish that chirps in carparks etc, I don't understand why people actually want that, causes understeer and is like a really expensive locker.

This is how I did it in the past, jacked the car just over half a meter in the air, put 4 rims under it so if it fell I wouldn't die. Jack under the end of the box, undid tail shaft and me and a mate either side of it lowered it down. Putting it back in was a bit of a prick, same job but with the gearbox resting on my chest, I then bench pressed it up and my mate lined it up and put the bolts in. Probably wouldn't recommend this if you don't do anything lifting though as it is f**king heavy.

It only seems to be on peak torque, when reving to redline it doesn't do it. Might try dropping it in 3rd at 40 to get it on boost and see what happens. I'm starting to think it is the diff opening up really badly as when it does start to kick it always kicks left now. Oh well was due for a replacement 1.5 way, the stocker sucks compared to what I've had in the past.

Is a clutch most likely to slip at peak torque in lower gears list 1st and 2nd? Or in higher gears like 3rd and 4th? I always would have said the higher gears as there is far greater load, however my car feels VERY much like the clutch is slipping in 1st and 2nd, car takes off but it feels too smooth, as if the acceleration is trailing the revs. There is no smoke, tyre noise or black marks I can see but the tyres are fairly worn and don't always make noise. It won't do it in 3rd and it will still slide 2nd very easily and make lots of noise then, the diff is starting to open up a lot so would you guys say this is more likely just a combination of single pegging wheelspin or a slipping clutch?

pressure is to do with the oil itself and the pump, more oil means it'll take longer to heat up and hence higher pressure for ever so slightly longer, but I doubt it'd make any noticeable diff.

Pretty much, he had to drop it at 4k in first even then it lagged. If you saw a vid of someone planting it at 3k in 2nd it would be a very long video.

Nistune is even cheaper again though so it is moot. Was just saying it is a bonus.

It is cheaper than a power FC, only slightly more so than nistune and some people seem to think it is better. I know here in Adelaide they don't emissions test your exhaust, I did an engine swap and they asked for an emissions test slip at idle which I got from another company but they don't test it again once there, if defected it is not a requirement. Even with a different ECU and all sorts of mods you will almost always pass the idle test providing you have a cat and stock cams, they never make you do a full spectrum emissions test unless you have different injectors/turbo etc, even then it is up to you if you want to do it, they just won't let you register the car until it is done.

Almost certainly what I will do next time, what kind of hose will withstand dump pipe temps?

Even on a stock turbo it takes me ~30 minutes to get the f**king water line banjo bolts on, just can't seem to ever get the first thread to bite, keeps wanting to pop off, get the feeling someone bent the line by accident when it was off. Those water lines are the most time consuming and hardest part of the job imo. Maybe it would be easier to put them on the turbo first and then try and do them up to the block afterwards, thoughts?

Yeah it can be a bit confusing, being as pulse width is static all that changes is duty cycle. So even though at high rpm more fuel is being injected over time, less fuel is being injected per pulse. So if you have fuel pump issues etc you might see it leaning out at high rpm but fine at peak torque, but if the injector is the issue it will lean out at peak torque. I think I've got that correct, also explains why injectors required to make x rwkw can vary wildly as seen in this thread. Just out of curiosity do people ever play with the pulse width to try and get more out of injectors, or will that cause a drop in pressure? Or are injectors designed to operate at a specific pulse with, assuming I haven't got this all ass about?

More oil won't really change the pressure..

Because bigger capacity motors make more torque and hence don't usually rev as much to make the same power.

4800rpm is massive lag, transient response will suck as well, being as you will have to limit it to 7500rpm for reliability that is only a ~2k power band. Just have a look at some videos on youtube to see how laggy it is. Highly recommend a small highflow until you get everything ready.

Personally if you are going to wait a year and change the motor I would just slap a highflowed 25 turbo on there for now, hypergear do some very nice units for just over a grand, that way you can keep everything stock and get similar power with stock spool and bugger all lag. You are going to be pushing what maybe 280kw with this setup at that boost? It will be very laggy imo. I would honestly keep the turbo on the shelf until your 3L is done and you can run the turbo to its max, it will be painful to drive for the year on low boost. High flow will be much more fun and you can easily sell it when you are finished. That is what I would do anyway. Has anyone done a back to back to see how much of a restriction it does cause? If it is tuned correctly and never sees detonating or oil starvation (drifting etc) then it should last much longer than a year, just keep the revs under 7500.

Yeah he certainly sounds like a top bloke and the one to be talking to about this kind of stuff.

What about 4.5-5k does it do it then as well? Or specifically 3-4k ? Are you running more boost than stock? Aftermarket intercooler? bigger exhaust? If yes then it is probably combination of bad spark and running way too rich, check plugs, plug gap (should be 0.8mm), and check coils for cracks and scalding marks. If it is completely stock then it is probably a different issue as the above tends to cause a misfire at peak torque, not lower in the rev range. Also is it those revs regardless of load, or with minimal throttle will it rev out cleanly and it is only on WOT that it happens? Does the engine completely die or does it msifire (eg pop pop pop and lots of black smoke) ? Need more information.

You could argue he isn't being selfless because by him doing what he does he gets massive respect on these forums and people will always keep coming back. I don't think he does huge volume though so I'd say he genuinely just does it for the love.