Sydneykid

Either way will work, I do it at the ECU because it is closer and I don't have to run wires though under the bonnet. All you need to know is the pin outs to locate the AFM signal. You are measuring voltage so you don't have to cut any wires, just stick the multimeter probe into the rear (exposed) of the ECU plug. There is no absolute AFM voltage, it's more a change in voltage. Run it at the highest boost you can get without R&R and note the voltages. Then increase the boost to the amount where you have a problem and note those voltages when it is R&R'ing. That should tell you what the limit is at various rpm's. What I have seen on the R32GST Commander (when I jack up the boost) is a big jump in AFM voltage at an RPM range (usually around max VE, 4,500 tpo 5,000 rpm). It goes 3.0, 3.0, 3.1, 3.2, 3.2, 3.9 ....that's the problem (not the 3.9 itself) but the 0.8V jump. The Standard ECUs' don't seem to like this and they go R&R (the PFC doesn't care of course). On the Stagea I used the DFA to smooth out these sort of jumps by correcting the A/F ratios. That accomplished 2 things, stopped the A/F ratios creeping too rich and removed that jump in the AFM voltages. I also used the IEBC to smooth out the boost curve, as the standard turbo gets onto boost very rapidly when the wastegate is held closed by the IEBC solenoid. Since I retarded the exhaust camshaft timing by 4 degrees, I have noticed a little bit of the R&R has crept back. It feels flat occasionally (not all the time) at 3,000 to 3,500 rpm, so I probably need to do a bit more smoothing. Obviously the change in exhaust camshaft timing has increased the airflow to just over the standard ECU comfort zone. I guess that's a good thing because I know I haven't wasted my time fitting the adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley.

Sorry, it's a good offer, but I can't seem to find enough time to finish the Stagea upgrade and tune. I might be able to build and test one for you though. I promised one of our mechanics I would build a DFA and IEBC for his R33GTST. So building 2 at once is not much harder. As long as you aren't in a hurry of course.

Just a smidge under 8kgs each, no nuts, centre or valve.

Smaller tyres are cheaper and have less grip (that's a good thing for drift)

We block off one (of the 2) oil supplies to the cylinder head, we increase the ID of the oil returns to the sump (they are too small) and we run an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump. As for oil pumps we use the standard RB26DETT oil pump, or dry sump for a far superior result for similar cost. The aftermarket pumps are rediculously priced for what they are.

Suggestions follow; 1. Fuel filters are cheap, change it. What air filter are you using? If standard, they are cheap too, buy a new one. Or a Pipercros for $50 for better flow. 2. We use brake cleaner, carby cleaner leaves residue. 3. That's standard ECU R&R, nothing unusual there. 4. Sounds OK, but if you have leaking valves (for example) the oil tests are irrleleant and won't show up anything. Leak down test takes about 1 hour, well worth it. 5. Coils, coils, coils everything gets blaimed on coils. I have never replaced a coil on a RB, maybe I am just lucky. Or maybe its becuase I dry the coils out after I wash the engine, some people don't and drive it with a river of water in the plug valley. Stuffs coils real fast. Gapping down helps lazy coils and does nothing for stuffed ones. But what you are describing is not a miss (as in 1, 2 or 3 failed coils). All 6 would have to have failed, I don't think so Tim. 6. Nope that's ECU R&R, when it happens on the dyno the car lurches around madly, particularly the 4wd's (GTR's and Stagea). 7. Refer 4 above. 8. Worth a try, please post up what they find 9. Is that with the engine running? Or Off? Leaking around there is a sign of blocked PCV valve, take it out and give it a good clean in some kero. Check the rubber seal while it is out, they wear due to heat. Silicone sealer can help. 10. I would check the AFM voltage, connect a multimeter while driving and look at the voltage. That will tell you where it is on the 0 to 5.1 volt scale. As a few others have already said, it sounds like it's time for an SAFC, DFA or Power FC. The Stagea was real bad on ECU R&R at 8 psi and 10 to 1 AFR, now it runs perfectly using the DFA. Hope that helps some more

Ho, ho, ho, standard rods :looney: :looney: :looney: 400rwkw ho, ho, ho RB30 rods are longer RB30's have a better rod/stroke ratio than RB25/26 This means they are subject to lower side stresses Being 3 litres, it doesn't have to rev as hard to make the same power So the RB30 will generate the same power with less rod loadings But the RB30 rods in themselves are not as strong as RB25 or RB26 rods Because they don't have to be

The RB20/25 cross over pipe is 82 mm OD, the RB30 block is 38 mm taller, so there should be 44 mm more clearance with a non cross over inlet system.

I am surpised just like you, there must be an answer, or maybe several answers, a few little things that add up to a problem. I have never had to go down to 0.6 mm, the lowest I ever tried was 0.7 mm and it was no difference to 0.8 mm. I would try advancing the ignition up to 20 degrees, maybe even 25 degrees and see what happens. Listen for pre-ignition very closely, around 3,500 to 4,000 rpm when you load it up, in say 3rd or 4th, going up a long hill is best. If you can hear the pinging then retard it and try again, same hill, same rpm, same gear. Keep retarding until it doesn't ping. Then check it with the timing light and see where it ends up. That rules out ignition timing as an issue. An A/F ratio of 10 is low, but I have seen 9's before they start running rough. I assume the air filter and fuel filter are clean and the AFM has been cleaned recently. Yes? Injector clean and flow test would be on the list, after I had checked that the fuel pressure was OK (36-38 psi at zero boost or vacuum). Do you know anyone with a Consult screen you can borrow? That will tell you if you have a crook sensor, water temp, TPS, knock etc. Have you had a leak down test done, ever?

That's the VVT actuator on the front of the inlet camshaft;

Some people want to know the spring rates without removing the coils from the car. It a little more tricky and the results are not as accurate, but here is how it is done. Yes, I know this one is on the floor, but use your imagination that it is still mounted in the car. First measure the lower OD of the coil, this is hard to do without verniers as the shock shaft gets in the way of a ruler. You can buy cheap plastic verniers from SupaCheap, AutoOne, AutoBarn, AutoPro etc for a $few that will do this job accurately enough. In this case 112mm; Then measure the upper OD of the coil, in this case 103 mm; As usual measure the wire OD, in this case 12mm (yes, you can use the spanner trick here as well); Then count the coils, in this case 9.125; Then post up the numbers in this thread for Sydneykid to work out the spring rate like this; Coil OD = 112/103 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 9.125 turns Spring rate = 181 lbs/inch (3.327 kg/mm) I will pop onto this thread every few days (sorry not every day) and calculate any spring rates that are posted. Happy spring rate checking

I get asked this question all the time, so here is how to work out the spring rate using a standard Stagea rear spring; First remove the spring, then measure the ID of the coil, in this case 88mm; If you don't have a set of verniers then you can use a ruler, yep 88mm; Always measure the other end, some coils are conical, in this case 79mm; Then measure the OD of the wire, in this case 12 mm; If you don't have a set of verniers then you can use a spanner, simply select the right size spanner, yep 12mm. Last job, count the numbers of coils, this one has 9 and a bit coils, let's call it 9.125 coils; Then post up the numbers in this thread for Sydneykid to work out the spring rate like this; Coil ID = 88/79 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 9.125 turns Spring rate = 181 lbs/inch (3.327 kg/mm) I will pop onto this thread every few days (sorry not every day) and calculate any spring rates that are posted. Happy spring rate checking D: cheers

Hi guys, a quick lesson in diff terminology.; 1 way only works for power on, no power on = no locking 2 way works the same for power on and power off, it is locked 1.5 way locks on power on, but only "half" locks on power off. So, 2 way is good for drift as you want slide ability/predictability on power on and power off. The locking on power compromises the turn in response a little (it wants to go straight ahead), but that doesn't matter as you should arleady be sideways. We find 1.5 way best for circuit work as you don't want the diff locking and unlocking (100%) as you work the throttle to control the power. dodge other cars, adjust the line etc. The "half" locking on power off is good for turn in (no understeer), plus it adds a little anti lock to the rear brakes for cars with no ABS. This makes trail braking a lot easier. We don't use a 1 way in rear drive cars, however they are usefull in front drives or in the front diff of a 4wd. Particularly front drive rally cars, where understeer can be a problem. So whether the diff is a 1 way, 1.5 way or 2 way makes no difference to power on oversteer or wheelspin as they all work the same in that condition.

Interesting, ultimately the engines power would depend on its VE at the various airlfow rates. That can vary by 15% or so at numerous RPM's. One thing I would add is that the RB25DET AFM (PFC default) is set for 5.1 volts at 10860, which is around 170 rwkw. Yet the load point mapping goes to 21213, this means 5.1 volts (the AFM maximum) of 10860 is around load point 14/15. So a standard RB25DET AFM could never show more than load point 14/15. You are at load point 18/19, but I can't remember what AFM you have?

As I previously posted the Stagea ECU is a bit smarter than the average. It seems to be halfway between the R34GTT and R33GTST ECU's, with its protection strategy anyway. Plus ours has a standard exhaust (and everything else at the time), which complicates the tuning. I have seen R33's with slight R&R at 7 psi, it depends on the mods and the tune. Strange things like smaller plug gaps and slightly advanced ignition timing help. So I always try them before I get into the more serious stuff. For a manual I would ALWAYS go for the Power FC, far too many compromises with the piggy backs. But the DFA for ~$80 is a great low cost alternative if the budget is tight.