Sydneykid

Well you didn't have to wait too long........ Stiffer springs are a band aid, why don't you fix the problem properly? I don't understand the logic. It's got too much camber change, it's not too soft. Stick 500 lb springs in it, fantastic no more camber change but now it's too hard. Fix one problem and create another, what a good idea :confused:

As far as I know Z32's never had VVT, so the circuitry won't even be there in the ECU, neither will the logic/map/program. From memory (it's been a few years since I saw one) the Z32 ECU is basically the same as the R32 ECU.

I have nothing but bad experiences with Autolite plugs over the years. I only use NGK copper plugs, for ~$3 each they are unbeatable. That coil pack looks to have been pretty hot, what do the others look like?

Still dop off boost on the upchanges. It's all about the average power available/used on the run. The max power at one rpm point is irrelevant.

I don't know about yours, but my forged internals are much lighter than the cast ones I replaced.

The R32 harness plug won't fit the R33 ECU. So at the very least you will have to buy an R33 harmess plug. From experience the only way I could buy one was with the harness attached. No import dissmantler would sell me the plug on its own, well they would, but they charged me the same as if I had bought the whole harness. So I figured I might as well use what I paid for. You won't be able to get the VVT working without using an ECU that has the map/logic/program for it. There is no map and no output pin on the R32 ECU for VVT. Hence the need for a VVT capable ECU (eg; R33GTST). Tip, don't get an auto ecu. The alternative is to forget the VVT, remove it, stick a pair of adj camshaft pulleys on. You will need to replace the inlet camshaft with a non VVT one. RB25DE or RB20DET inlet cams work fine, or there is aftermarket non VVT of course. Then rechip an R32GTST ECU, that's what I did (RB30/25DE) and it worked fine. Hope that helps:cheers:

Isn't that only half the story? That's the correction for Inlet Temp being above Ambient Temp, but what about Ambient Temp being above DD's reference temp? Based on RPMGTR's post wouldn't it apply additional correction for the Ambient Temp being 25 degrees compared to DD's reference temp of 20 degrees? Keep in mind Shoot Out Mode doesn't always ADD to the power readings. If the Ambient and Inlet Temps are less than DD's reference temp then it will show LESS power.

From the Nissan R32 workshop manual;

The Nakamichi I have is an Australian one, so I have no band expander. I just plugged the antenna lead into the head unit via an adaptor plug. But I do notice it gets better reception when the RHS of the Stagea is facing the radio station antenna. PS; I am very happy with 6" coaxial MB Quart I have in each of the 4 doors.

Hi Bass, the Dyno Dynamics software does it for you, you just load up the different runs and overlay them.

And the knocking when cold would be worn piston skirts.:headspin:

Some suggestions follow; At 200rwkw there is bit left in the standard turbo but not a lot. I'd give it a quick run at 1 bar and see what happens. Boost drop, so it's making 200 rwkw at 10 psi? That's pretty good, it usually takes 12 psi to make 200 rwkw. That means if you up it to 12 psi, it will drop to down 11 psi at high rpm. Yep, the fuel map moves around a fair bit when you stick the cams in there. That's also the off idle problem, you need to tune it a bit richer than it was before for cold run. It will run closed loop when hot, so no problems there, as long as you have enough ignition timing in it. Exhaust camshaft timing, I reckon 0 degrees is the go, based on what I have seen. I have never seen an engine that likes advanced exhaust camshaft timing, so I am not surpised it dropped a bucket load when you tried 2 degrees advanced. As I said before, cams need lots more tuning changes than any other of the usual turbo mods. Don't let it get you down, you are not unique, one step backwards is sometimes required before you can take 2 steps forward. Look on the upside, there is ~65 rwkw in a GCG ball bearing hi flow upgrade, now that you have the cams done.

There were very few "brand" name parts used; Standard RB30 block, crank, water pump, oil pump and balancer Balanced up & down and round & round bits O'ringed block and double annealed copper head gasket ACL Race Series pistons, rings and bearings Pistons were ceramic coated on the crowns and oil retention coated on the skirts Argo I beam rods with ARP rod bolts Std VL RB30 Commondoor gaskets and seals Fabricated sump with wings and baffles ARP studs for cylinder head and main bearings Std RB26 Camshafts, valves, retainers and followers Performance brand valve springs Adj camshaft pulleys (no name brand, early Jun style) Gates cambelt Ported head with polished and matched combustion chambers GT35R on a no name high mount manifold with a no name (HKS copy) wastegate 850 cc Cosmo injectors Bosch 044 fuel pump Nismo regulator on the standard fuel rail Power FC PWR intercooler Q45 AFM Run in on the dyno for around 1 hour all up, change oil and filter and get into it. Calcs.......... 632 bhp = 472 kw less ~60 kw (2wd) = 412 rwkw The average power from 4,000 rpm to 7,000 rpm is massive and it's not straining at all. A/F ratios are not over 12 to 1 anywhere and the knock is less than 20. Cams and a bit more airflow (no more boost required) it would make 500 rwkw easily. It's a customer engine so I have no permission to post up the graphs. My new RB31DET is similar (+ cams though) and I will post its graphs up when it is done.

I don't blame them, bottoming out has nothing to do with the Koni shocks, they are the right length. It is either too low or the springs are too soft for that height. This is not unusual in GTS4's, people use GTST springs in them. They simply are not designed for the extra 200 kgs. Sometimes they even use GTST shocks.

They are all Japanese. My suggestion would be Bilstein shocks with Whiteline coils and coil over kit. DMS would be next for a little more money. The Whiteline Group 4 kits for Skylines are on the way, still months away, not weeks though.

Whiteline do springs for Skylines, generally cheaper than Kings:cheers:

A $35 wheel alignement will get you a front toe adjustment, if you are really lucky they might do the rear toe as well. Forget about camber or caster adjustments, that isn't going to happen for $35. We have a camber gauge, 2 pieces of box section aluminium and 2 lengths of 1.5mm hat elastic and I align the race cars with that equipment. But I have been doing it for a lot of years. I couldn't possibly explain it, would take me 10 thousand words or more. Pop out to a race meeting and I can show you though.

Hi Scooby, I hate saying "I told you so", but how many times have you seen me say Bilsteins for Skylines? I have nothing against Konis, we use them in lots of cars, just not in road Skylines. Tops can revalve them, they have a number of alternative valve packs to choose from. You will have to push, but it is worth it. PM me if you wan't further details.

Far too often I read a list of Skyline mods and I can't find anything that would improve the handling or brakes. Spend a small fortune on the engine and then can't use it. They don't have too much power, they have TOO LITTLE HANDLING. Well Dan, it's time to balance up the equation, pop over to the suspension section for details. PS, aftermarket injectors always flow a little more than their rating (it's only 2.7% after all), nothing unusual there.

Clarification first, there are polyurethane pineapples that supplement (not replace) the standard bushes. They also allow subframe angle changes. There are polyurethane bushes that replace the standard bushes. There are alloy bushes that replace the standard bushes. I haven't seen any alloy pineapples. I don't think the material is the issue if it is a 100% drag application (ie; no road use). The angle of the sub frame is the important tuning item. So by default you may have to use the polyurethane pineapples. You should also replace the standard rubber bushes with alloy bushes and then change the angles with the polurethane pineapples. For a road car that does a lot of drag work, the best would be polyurethane bushes and pineapples. For a road car that sees only a little drag work, the standard rubber bushes and pineapples would be my choice. Hope that makes sense:cheers:

Linton has done pretty well in his description. The concept is to change the angle of the rear cradle for the same, more or less anti squat. The tightening up of the movements of the rear sub frame in relation to the chassis is a separate but very worthwhile advantage. For drag applications you want as much squat as you can get to maximise the weight transfer to the rear. The trade off is making sure you don't get too much or the camber change will overcome any weight transfer advantage. For drift applications you want as much anti squat as you can get, by reducing the weight transfer to the rear it minimises the rear grip. At the same time it maximises the front grip for better steering response. Circuit racing is a bit of both, I tend to go for a fair bit of rear squat in high powered rear drive Skylines. GTR's being 4wd don't need quite as much, so I run a bit of anti squat. The postition of the polyurethane bushes (above or below) determines how much angle there is on the sub frame (in relation to the chassis). The Whiteline kit has a table with the applicable settings. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

I paid around half that:cheers:

OK, there's enough guys with Stageas out there to get a consensus.... How are you finding the standard radio reception? I have a Nakamichi head unit which I transferred from another of our cars. It worked fine there, but in the Stagea it has lousy reception distance. I made up an adaptor plug for the standard aerial which maybe the problem, how have you guys done it?

That black plastic looks good, almost standard