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matlowth

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Everything posted by matlowth

  1. matlowth

    Calder Park

    I though that endless car was quick... 121 mph is fairly ordinary for a car that's got as much power as that's supposed to have. Should have cracked 130 easily... matt
  2. a good ozzy forum is www.mcnews.com.au
  3. Ben - You have PM. matt
  4. trance/techno.... matt
  5. Your best bet is to get your car on a weigh bridge... Make sure it's got a full tank of gas and all the fluid reservoirs are full. I'll bet your car is tipping close to 1500kgs when fully laiden. The power to weight ratio is 125kw/tonne if I remember correctly, and a 1500kg car with 183kw is 122kw/tonne which puts you juuust under the limit! matt
  6. Joel - when you just increase the capacity of the motor without increasing the volume of air going to it, the point of peak power will move lower... That's why you need a bigger cams, valves, turbo's, etc to make the most of a 3ltr motor. But for a street/track car - that torque curve and power curve are ideal! matt
  7. While not being cheap, I just had my car cleaned, detailed & polished at Protech in Bayswater for a HPI shoot... They did an awesome job and the car came up really well. Cheers, matt
  8. Yeah one more here (why not!)
  9. Hey PH, the offer still stands mate matt
  10. One of the guys down here in melb (Emre) ran an 11.9 with cam gears, exhausts, and boost... Made 250 ish rwkw. Cheers, matt
  11. I can get flames out the exhaust when I bounced off the limiter... Quite easily actually No switch in my car! matt
  12. Sydneykid - some food for thought - while the gearbox is physically identical, but you're forgetting that the tailshaft and driveshafts are a lot smaller than that of a gtr... I'd be more inclined to say that one of my driveshafts would go before the gearbox... In any case, I'm sticking to single plate clutches just in case! Cheers, matt
  13. You're right... I was running 124mph which is good for 10's (With traction), and the best run I managed was 12.3... Most of the others were 12.7. No traction till 3rd gear (which is what most of you with this power will get) will hamper any chance of getting a really quick time on street tyres. Cheers, matt
  14. Your clutch will start to slip before it gives up totally... When this happens, pull out for the day and drive her home! I ran with 185rwkw on the stock clutch for almost a year including two drag events! matt
  15. FYI - I've got a trust low mount manifold in my car with an external wastegate (which plumbs back into the exhaust), and it's exceptionally quiet. Cheers, matt
  16. JNR24, yes indeed - 300rwkw is a heck of a lot of power in a street car... Having blown away some 900-1000cc sports bikes on the run is testament to that! Joel - funny you should say that... The power run you saw on my car was done at an LS1 dyno day where a supercharged LS1 ran there. It made 280rwkw and made a lot less torque than mine The commy boys weren't very happy with that matt
  17. I think you misunderstood me there What i meant, was that the RB30 (in exactly the same state of tune as an equivalently prepared RB25 short block in your car is going to cost you around 2-3k more. If you only want 300rwkw you're wasting your money paying for the extra capacity. Just trying to save you money Cheers, matt
  18. Merli, I agree with you there spot on! My car was built as it is to be a quick street car/circuit car, as such, it's got harder suspension which is good for the twisties... If it can pull a quick time at the drags, I guess that's just a nice bonus! I think the skylines make a shitty base for a drag car... They're just too heavy. matt
  19. BTW - I've been offered a set of carillos' quite cheap, so I'm thinking of making the switch & then up the boost so the cars making around 380rwkw. If anyones' interested, I'm probably going to offload the rods for about $500 which is cheap considering I paid about 800 for it in my car. They're only about 3000km old too. Cheers, matt
  20. If you want to know what mid-range torque and power of an RB30 looks like, here's a dyno graph. Note, this is only 14psi of boost, on the street the car runs 16-17psi, so it's making around 330-340rwkw. Although it's in km/h, you can see that by around 4000rpm, it's making in excess of 200rwkw which equates to a very quick street car. Power drops off after about 6500rpm, but it still has over 280rwkw @ 7500 which is the redline. BTW - The other plot (lower one) was torque... The car was dyno'd on an LS1 dyno day, and they obviously weren't expecting a piddly little 6cyl to make as much torque as it does which is why the reading is so high up on the graph Cheers, matt
  21. Re: the oil galleries, we used an RB26 head gasket (Which is fairly similar to the RB30 bottom end (no vct etc)... I can't tell you off the top of my head whether any modifications were required to make it fit, but to the best of my knowledge there wasn't any. BTW - Restrictors were put in to the head so that not so much oil was sent up there too... The bottom end, nahh - after it was acid dipped, it was painted silver to give it that new look... I think it makes it come up really nice! The white pistons are a cool look too... It's almost a shame to put the head on the top! matt
  22. Ahh mates rates, thats different again... For Joe public however, that's the costs you have to pay. matt
  23. Yep - but as mentioned by sydney kid, they'll give you sloppy compression ratio's. I think the stock RB25det pistons give about 7.8:1 which isn't too bad... Don't quote me on that though... matt
  24. Yep that's right... That's only if you want to work with the non-turbo block. My motor came out of a VERY late model VL Wagon (Non turbo)... The rods in it were slightly chunkier around the rod bolt (see attached photo)...
  25. lowlux... Rod preperation work is bloody expensive... You're looking at 6-800 dollars for all that stuff alone. If you can afford to spend the money, I think getting custom rods are the way to go IMO. BTW - If you want to know what shot peening is, it's definition and explaination are here (much better than I could ever explain it): http://www.shotpeener.com/learning/story_peening.pdf Essentially, it compresses the surface metal, and the extra pressure is (to paraphrase) "extremely beneficial in preventing fatigue failures". Similar to a blacksmith making a sword I guess... Go have a read, it's very interesting stuff. matt
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