T04GTR

or my 20k old 34 box and nismo clutch/flyweel combo insted

i just had a really good idea. since im a little worried about some no good slime ball finding out where i live and steeling my car after autosalon. how about getting numberplate style stickers made with our usernames on them. and have them over the numberplates???

sik!! coool. the old place was a little small for what you guys do.

yeah slotted or not slotted makes no differance on braking performance. just get the slotted ones if there a good price. ps.. dont get dba ones.

change the turbo and go nuts

wow that looks pretty cool. eastern creek super lap here we come

yeah. dont do it.

t04z 230k 32 rb26. 307kw loves it hehe. oh and 20 pound. for the last 20k odd

hey brian. thanks heaps for sorting out my teathing problems with my f40 brembos and your custom 355mm two piece rotors on my gtr. still shakes a little but is bearable. ps. im getting some k-type alcons to replace the brembos so i can sell te old set up as a complete kit.

cool. as soon as i get my new alcon setup happening il be going down that path. seeps pretty good bang for buck. also i would think thered be a slight reduction in turbo lag too. is this tru. cos of more stuffs going into the engine?

or some hks pro-L type. pretty much anything bigger that 280 and bigger han 10.5 mm lift

280 or 290 11.5 lift procams from tomie.

this one looks the goods.

PS its probably read my sig and is spiet ing me for it hehe. also having a fully built motor sitting on a stand waiting to go is also another reason haha. takes it like a bitch

well morgs and pretty much everyone else has cams at the least. and a built motor with forgies so abit of timing could help. my motor is still going strong. 170pound across all 6. (apart fron some cool oil leaks lol. i put it down to oil and oil temp. and a concervative tune. tuners get a litle scared when they find out its a 230k old donk hehe. so penrite syn 5 or syn 10. two 25 row oil coolers and overfilled oil by 1 litre. (up to the hump on the stick) to stop oil surge.

lol@dodgy pic hehe

HICAS JOINTS IN TEH HUB. very common and apain in the asss

hi all. ive been reserching brakes again and i came across this usful info from pagid. just fitted some race type pads? then follow these precedures to get the best from them GUIDANCE ON PAD INSTALLATION When installing Bremsen Technik Racing Pads, we recommend you observe the following: CLEANING DISCS It is always good practice to clean the surface of the disc to remove any previous pad deposits and contamination. This can be done with a specific deglazing tool or a medium to coarse abrasive paper. This will allow the new pad to achieve better contact with the grain of the disc surface. As many high performance friction materials impart a friction transfer layer on the disc surface, this should be cleaned away when new pads are fitted. This is especially the case when a change of compound is made. Failure to clean the disc surface will result in reduced friction and reduced brake pad life. MOUNTING NEW PADS ON USED DISCS When fitting new pads to used discs care must be taken to file top and bottom edges to 45 degrees to allow pads to clear high ridges on disc radius. This will allow the pads to fully contact the disc surface. If the contact area is reduced, hot spots can occur and damage friction material reducing efficiency. If you are changing to Bremsen Technik pads from another manufacturer, please take care to remove all surface deposits from the disc. If this is not done, bedding in may prove difficult and reduce life and performance of the pads. BRAKE DISC CONDITIONING (NEW DISCS) When fitting new discs, care must be taken to heat cycle the disc by gradually introducing moderate temperatures into the disc before high temperatures are reached. The introduction of high temperatures into the brake disc too quickly can result in thermal shock causing cracking and disc distortion. Thermal shock can be reduced by also allowing the disc and pad combination to cool gradually after extreme use and allowing the vehicle to come to a complete stop when the brakes are at extreme temperatures should be avoided (e.g. holding the vehicle in the pit lane on the foot brake). Thermal shock can result from the level of thermal energy applied, or from the rate the heat is applied and removed. Try to keep the energy levels gradual by using warming up cycles and cooling down cycles where possible. This practice will prolong the life of both pad and disc, improve overall brake performance and help to prevent failures. GUIDANCE ON BEDDING IN PROCEDURE When bedding in Bremsen Technik Racing Pads, we recommend you observe the following: GEOMETRIC ALIGNMENT OF PAD TO DISC SURFACE (BASIC BEDDING IN) 3-4 brake applications with light to medium pedal pressure from approx 90mph to 60mph without allowing wheels to lock. Allow for a distance of 300-400 metres between brake applications for cooling period. Pads should not reach temperatures above 300-400ºC during initial bedding in. Check that pad surfaces have at least 80 percent contact with disc before allowing more heat into pad surface. BEDDING IN AT HIGH SPEED (Immediately after Basic Bedding In) 1 brake application with medium to high pedal pressure from approx 110mph to 60mph without allowing wheels to lock. Allow 2-3 recovery brake applications with light pedal pressure. Repeat high speed applications including recovery applications a further 1-2 times. Allow a cooling off distance of 500 metres between high speed applications. For Ceramic materials, allow another 1-2 high speed applications to attain slightly higher temperatures in the pad. BRAKE FADE TROUBLESHOOTING Brake Fade can be separated into two groups: PEDAL FADE This is the result of the brake fluid boiling in the calipers. This will cause the brake pedal to feel spongy and pedal travel will increase. If the brake fluid in the system has boiled, it should be immediately replaced as its ability to resist boiling has been greatly reduced. Fluid testing should be regularly done as a matter of course. It should be replaced regularly, or when tests show it has degraded. ALWAYS USE THE HIGHEST GRADE FLUID POSSIBLE. PAD FADE This is the result of friction being lost between pad and disc surface due to the friction material exceeding its maximum operating temperature. The pedal feel remains constant but the vehicle is not retarded. If pad fade regularly occurs, an upgrade to a material with a higher operating temperature should be considered. If the highest specification material is being used, consideration should be given to increasing disc size if possible, or improving cooling to the brakes. The main problem area with high performance braking systems is always the control of the thermal energy. Brake disc and pad temperature analysis can be used to indicate the temperature range the brakes are operating in. With this information, material alternatives and cooling aspects can be considered and tried.

yeah. dont drain it. yam a cut off broom handle in it.

you cant you need to either get a new shaft or take it to a tailshaft guy.

just google it.

i hope the not

yar. fit the biggest one you can. im asuming youve got 5/8 hose. -10an youl need 2 90 degree hose ends. and 2 45 degree ones at the least. the fittings arnt cheap and are about 40-80 each. (tighter the bend the more expencive) hose is around 30-45 a meter. youl need 2-3 to be safe.

yeah. eithere get 3 double ended coils or get the igniotion expander.

been there done that bought the t-shirt. no the rears are to long. and a diferant width mountinng.