sh@un

*it's 100kg lighter *it has better weight distribution *it's a sexy coupe rather than a family-spec 4 door and it also features *bigger brakes F&R *much better interior *dry sumped engine for lower centre of gravity and absolute piece of mind on track days *better inlet and exhaust for faster revving *much more sporting dynamics due to MR design *aluminium alloy construction since an NSX cost ~$245K when it was last on sale, does $269K sound unreasonable to you for a car also made from aluminium, but much more modern, with much higher power and more cylinders?

i haven't read the replies, but i know a 32 GT-R with standard LSD oil in it's OEM mechanical 1.5-way diff is fine (but veerrry tail-happy in the wet), but once you change to something like the pink Redline LSD oil, it will start to bite like a mofo in anything resembling low to moderate speed corners

so did you "show 'em" or nawt? :laughing-smiley-014:

since when? afaik, you are supposed to follow any 'reasonable directions' issued by police- unless you could prove staying in your car wasn't reasonable

i don't know how you came up with this, but it would have nothing to do with the air-flow dynamics inside the engine

sounds good Nick lol

teh sickness

lol good 'ol south nowra industrial estate- problem is, there's only 1 road in and out the bisects the estate

yes

no standard gasket thickness is 0.9mm- the only thing you will need is cam gears to dial in the cam timing just do it

mate, there are drag GT-Rs that run 9's using unleaded fuel on engines with over 9.0:1 comp ratios. run the 1.0 gasket and GT-SS's with a good ECU (a D-Jetro Apexi PFC would be the ducks guts) and you'll be blown away with how tractable and economical it is.

talk about opposite ends of the spectrum

Err, dood- the 1.0 and 1.2mm gaskets won't give the same comp ratio. Go the 1.0mm head gasket. On 98 octane fuel with an aftermarket ECU and a full exhaust (separated wastegate dumps if possible) the GT-SS's will still be able to make max power and you'll still have the best transient response and fuel economy possible.

think like me? for f**k sake this forum is going down the tubes i've never owned a push-rod V8 Holden or Ford, and doubt i ever will for the record- every review i've read of the 5.4 DOHC Ford V8 Vs the previous 5.7 LS1 rated the Canadian Chev motor better. Just goes to show even a 4V/cyl DOHC head can be an Epic Fail when you match it to a massively over-square crank design (apart from the super-charged version in the Ford GT) the fact that people are still happy to buy 2V OHV engines (in monstrous quantities), and do things like- tow boats and drive at 1300rpm in 6th gear at 110km/h speaks volumes about the longevity of 'old tech' in real world applications anyone else that wants to start a moronic argument with me is going to get E-flamed back to the bronze-age

if the BOV is vented to atmosphere, that is your problem it's been covered 1.387 x 10^15 times

wtf point is there comparing fully-built methanol cars to street engines? gtfo

dude wants some help modding the car he has- not your opinion on weather he should buy a different car. TT late-model V8 Commodore will prolly make a much more relaxed daily driver than a Skyline anyway oh, right- and what fuel do they run on again? idiot

we're thinking about cars ffs. any modern bike that doesn't easily better 100 N/A hp/L isn't worth owning and we ARE talkling about 60y.o engines. 2 valves per cylinder actuated by push-rods is most definitely 30's/40's tech

flash-tune of a factory ECU only makes sense if you never plan to mod your car again

current 6.0L HSV's make 307kW- that's a measly 68.5hp per Litre "most stock engines"? you can count the amount of engines that do that on your hands, and apart from the Hondas, they all cost cubic dollars there's no way in hell an OHV 5.8L motor can make 800+ flywheel horsepower and be something you'd want to use on the street without being turbocharged, period.

complete waste of time full boost by 3500 is doable on an engine that size

at high revs, yeah- but that's not going to help transient response low in the rev range

same (at the time) my hero cars in order of when i drooled over them Lambo Countach, Ferrari F40, R32 GT-R, McLaren F1 (at least i've owned one of them now )

you mean smaller offset: as the offset gets lower (or even negative) the mounting face of the wheel (i.e: where it touches the rotor hat) gets closer to the inside edge of the rim. once it passes the midpoint of the rim, you have negative offset