sh@un

drunken-dial

good most of the times when i get carved up by someone doing 11ty million km/h in a 60 zone, there's usually a p-plate stuck inside the back window

p plater most likely

a thread lock would be too good thread removal is what we need

why would you want an unreliable sh#$box like an old Corolla, when you can have more street cred and better everything with a nice, reasonably cheap, fun, na silv? my first car was a datsun 1600 (should have known better), and although it was good fun to slide, it cost a lot in maintenance aus spec R31's are very cheap and ultra reliable too

niggah wot? i spent 2 years thrashing my standard turbo 32 GT-R at just over 15psi (including 4 track days) and it was still going strong, lol

may be easier for you just to start off with an n/a silvia for a few years they are a lot more common in manual form, a lot cheaper- and you should be able to build up the driving skills required to get the most out of a turbo'd line by the time you get a full licence.

the handbrake operates the linings that are inside the rear disc hub, not the normal 2-piston caliper pads. so badhair is right. time to see a mechanic

it's pretty simple really a car featuring a turbo or V8 engine will automatically be prohibited to you regardless of weather they got all the build dates/makes of car, right or not there are no 'loop holes'

yes both cars were available in 1989 no, you can't drive either on your p's unless you had your p's before the rules were amended this forum has covered this many times you're stuck with naturally aspirated Nissans only until you have a full licence, sorry =[

yes, it most certainly is (p.s i think you mean the little angled hose connector on the compressor cover, because in front of the turbo inlet, you'll see vacuum) the line pressure down there may be 3psi or more higher at the compressor cover than it is by the time the air suffers all the parasitic losses on the way through the intercooler and all the piping on the way to the engine but did you read my whole post? it matters nought what pressure is in the actuator line running to the wastegate, as long as you are taking an acurate boost reading from the intake manifold after the throttle body (you'll need to use a spare vacuum port somewhere there, or tap on in if there isn't one available) after you do that, all you need to do then is to tweak the bleed valve for more/less pressure bypass until you get the desired manifold boost pressure

out

Any GT-R rods in good condition will easily handle 280rwkW

It doesn't really matter where it goes on the pressure side of the intake tract- as long as you're actually taking a gauge/meter boost reading after the throttle body, and the wastegate is getting a line signal that allows consistent control of that boost pressure.

fixed that for you there Mona

repost

your hosting could have gone down temporarliy Gary

the 'bunny hop's probably you hitting the overboost ignition cut get one of those cheap pneumatic boost controllers (or splurge on a big dollar elec one if you prefer)

Julian Edgar is a known tosser. He jumped from an RS Liberty into a 32 GT-R (which he paid $80K for) and was too much of a blouse to handle the low-speed over steer. Then modified the attesa control system with his friends at silicon chip magazine to give permanent front wheel torque (like the 33/34's, but more). Basically he wasn't impressed with the demanding nature of travelling by GT-R, and thought he'd tell the whole world about it. He did road review the Targa winning 34 N1 of a few years ago and was impressed with that in the mountains, though.

what about carsales, drive, carpoint, trading post, etc, etc

very odd problem you got there champ i'd be heading to the nearest competent mechanic asap

sell the lot and buy a decent car and a house

no, no and no with the right launch technique, the 'Line would be at the right revs to be on boost straight away anyway. Harder to acheive at very high power levels, yes, but still achievable. more responsive outta corners? not if you can use a lower gear effectively and keep the revs up (admittedly not as easy/relaxing as using a higher gear and the low down torque in a V8) and what relevance does a fully CNC machined, ultra high nickel content block, custom built everything NASCAR V8 have to an old warmed over road-going Ford/Chev V8? absolutely none. cheers torque wins races eh? not if someone else has a higher average torque in the upper rev range (ie. more power)

does it have it? that may be the problem

hicas?