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Thanks, koyo oe replacement is probably the go. I read the thicker race radiators in some cases don't fit without trimming and changing to slimmer fans which is even more expensive.

Just purchased a v35 manual sedan as my daily. It has a few little issues I need to address before roadworthy. Such as engine belts needing replacement, creaky clutch noise from the bell housing and leaking plastic end tank radiator. So ... I'm looking for a replacement radiator, preferably alloy, good chinese/ebay $300 jobbie, not koyo/pwr $700 jobbies as its just my daily. Anyone buy anything that's held up well or should I buy a koyo plastic end tank replacement. Plenty of 350z ones on ebay, but top tank is the other way around Thanks.

Has anyone tried an r31 gts-r copy steam pipe manifold on their low mount turbo? There was a company in qld making them: solution exhaust for speedtek in melbourne, looks like they are still available. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Steam-Pipe-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-RB20-RB25-RB26-LOW-MOUNT-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/252412398308?hash=item3ac4f38ae4:g:N8sAAOSw71BXQFgB We're talking $1k so the question is, are they equivalent to high mounts power wise?

Looking for one of these in good condition $120 max . PM if you have something in non-banged condition. Thanks.

Could you post what the average timing went up by from standard tune to 100% water tune, then water-meth combo. I like the idea of pure water injection versus e85 if nets good power increase and saves lugging e85 to far away track days!

My 2c. I have both cars and prefer the skyline. The evo with less power is a few seconds faster than my skyline around a track. The evo has superior response and acceleration, but the feel (steering/chassis) isn't as good as the skyline (I'd say less honest with all the electrics). I find the skyline more enjoyable on the street (love engine/exhaust noise, better interior, slowish/deliberate long throw gearshifts, non-stiff suspension). The skyline requires more effort to punt around a track quickly and I appreciate that aspect, along with watching better drivers drive rwd skylines quickly!

Bumping from the past. If you have one and want to sell pm me.

Before people get too excited by power gains hanging an external wastegate off the oem rb25 manifold. Please note, it may be fine on the street, but on the track oem mani's tend to crack/warp eventually - done this twice so far. Mind you if it ends up being a cheap welding mod, then it may work out ok. Ps. If someone made a better steam pipe log living in that area using oem heat shield, this could be a great mod

This is the guy I used in mitcham for my kaaz 1.5 and some other gearbox issues I've had. http://www.yellowpages.com.au/vic/mitcham/a-victoria-differentials-transmissions-12237021-listing.html

Just spent a couple of hours trying to reproduce with extra gauges and can't make it happen atm. I target 14.8 afr at idle, cell 2,2, 15 deg timing. From logs (going back to 2008) at idle there are differences when it decides to go lean: normal 14.9 afr, ends up being around 15.5 afr, sometimes > 16 afr injector duty is up from 0.9 to 1.1 % air flow voltage is up from 1100 to 1200 mv vacuum is down from -520 to -500 mmhg rpm is up from 750 to 800 rpm timing remains at 15 deg, water temp > 60 deg Seems to be directly heat related, car left a while, then warm start. Two things from yesterday's diagnostics which I need more data on to rule out. I unplugged the idle stepper connector and afrs appeared to be stable. When I reconnected the connector and power fc went into some recalibration mode. I found a small nick on one of the fuel pressure reg hoses and replaced the hose (I'd say from dyno operators). However, I could maintain a vacuum on this pipe so don't believe the nick penetrated. Anyhow putting car back together as I have a hill climb this weekend. Will update this topic if I discover anything.

Hoping someone has stumbled across this before. I have an R34 skyline gtt with the previous generation power fc and an aftermarket wideband sensor. Sometimes on warm starts (say water > 50 deg) the afr is 0.2 to 0.5 (or more) leaner under vaccum. It doesn't happen all the time, most of the time it follows what's in the fuel map. Sometimes it can be replicated at idle by letting car warm up, turn off, wait, start up again. When left running for a while you can see it randomly lean, then return to fuel map value, or stay in a leaner mode of operation. It's like a random vacuum leak, frustrating to tune. What I know: wot unaffected o2 closed loop disabled, but oem o2 sensor connected good battery 14.4v (through datalogit) sensor check ok stock bov no air temp sensor on this model power fc swapped z32 maf with another and no different water temp correction is 1.000 at 80 deg, so afr should be the fuel map value ignition timing unchanged at idle, even when running lean injector duty unchanged at idle, even when running lean fuel pump voltage unchanged at idle, even when running lean can't be a dodgy wideband o2 sensor as engine note is audibly different when lean at idle disconnected fuel purge canister loom (since its the only solenoid I can see), no difference tightened all the intake clamps and turbo nuts, no difference Going to check: source another wideband o2 sensor (check just in case) disconnect oem o2 sensor (shouldn't be doing anything but you never know) measure fuel pressure check vacuum leaks disconnect idle stepper check spark plugs I'm thinking its a bug in the power fc logic. I have had this issue for a few years and blamed hot fuel at track days, but in garage at home I can replicate and the fuel ain't hot. Ideas welcomed.

I have some suspension bits from my R34 I need to clear out. Parts located in Melbourne. Would prefer local buyers, but for serious buyer can post interstate. Prices are open to reasonable offers. PM if interested. #1 Drummond Motor Sport DMS 50 competition tarmac suspension Made and rebuildable in Australia. Separate bump and rebound adjustment. Top condition only used for a short time, ie. half a dozen track days. May fit R33 or R34 gtr but you'd need to check with DMS. I've painted bodies to remove stone chips, but they're in very good condition, as visual inspection will attest. C-spanners and docs supplied. 450 lb front, 260 lb rear springs. $1500 ono http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/gallery/image/83499-sdc11910/ #2 Tein RA suspension Rebuildable by Fulcrum suspension in QLD. Ideally suited for track work, they are 10kg front and 8kg rear springs and have done ~5000km. Very light weight alloy body with bump/rebound adjust-ability along with ride height. Japanese quality and hard to find these days. These may fit R33 or R34 GTR but you'd need to confirm with Tein Australia or Japan. Rears were revalved by Racepace in Melbourne. C-spanners included, along with original docs. $1500 ono http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/gallery/image/85392-232390-2013031841/ #3 CSC/B-Max 343mm front brake caliper kit Used for approx 4000km. From Hypertech (Autoaccess, Ark Design now) in Vermont Victoria - so parts and service are all local. Big 4 pot calipers, with alloy adapters, ADR approved s/s brake lines and all fixings. They accept a Porsche pad which is pretty commonly available. Included: The original 343mm 2-piece rotors, 30.8mm thickness. A set of RDA Mercedes modified, 343mm 1-piece rotors, 32.1mm thickness. A set of one track day old Pagid RS14 pads. A new set of Bendix Ultimate pads. A near new set of TRW pads. I'm returning my car to stock brakes so these brakes are surplus to needs. These are great calipers for track days with long straights! $1500 ono http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/gallery/image/85395-csc/ #4 R33/R34 Whiteline swaybars 20 and 24 mm Painted black in top nick. Come with poly bushes and are adjustable via holes. Not separating. 20mm front 24mm rear $350 ono http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/gallery/image/85393-20-24/ #5 R33/R34 Whiteline swaybars 24 and 27 mm Painted black in top nick. Come with poly bushes and are adjustable via holes. Not separating. 24mm front 27mm rear $350 ono http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/gallery/image/85394-24-27/

Top day, kudos to advan/circuitclub for organising. Weather wasn't ideal but plenty to time to try this and that. Just wish my cv boot held up so I could burn up some laps with their whizzy new tyres they were loaning out. Next time!

On my evo the oem side mount oil cooler (even though it gets air from the front of the car) doesn't evacuate into the wheel well efficiently and temps skyrocket after a few laps on a hot day. I've rigged up a water spray which I need to better test, but should help. Just thinking you might need something similar or use a 12v fan if airflow isn't available. Ps. my r34 loves the oil cooler in front of the radiator.

Sounds good. Plenty of laps to be had + plenty of petrol to be consumed. You can have a second driver use the car on the sessions your allocated for $0 cost, so my Dad's going to have a drive. Bring on the cold (but dry) weather for the turbos!

Winton, 65 cars, $170, heaps of track + get to checkout time attack cars if they turn out. = I've just signed up!

Yep MSCA are a good bunch but they do run slowly. I'll probably do sandown since my dad's competing and I have some things to test. Like to keep an eye out for wrx, gcc, msca, tampered events, I try to do one a month

HH is a great track but I think wrx price and non figure 8 may have killed it on this occasion. For me, I'm looking at msca sandown 10/3 or tampered winton 11/3, as I do track days for exp (& cross fingers pbs) not points. Hope this doesn't kill off people going to HH, it's definitely worthwhile.

I've just bought a set of rda slotted gtr rotors to try with my caliper adapters, just waiting for my dba 4000s to wear down before I upgrade. Now, after using the standard gtt brakes on a racetrack winton/sandown, they hold up pretty well with the right pads and ducting - I still need more air though as rims are very hot. Maybe you should give this a go then go bigger if not happy - if your tracking.