paulr33

there are known baddies in my signature link, worth a read if you are trying to buy cheap ebay ones

my recommendations 1) see a mechanic before playing 2) see a mechanic before playing 3) see the mechanic who did the engine build before playing lastly check the oil level, any std 10w40 or 5w40 should be fine, the first digit identifies how long before the oil rushes to the head when you turn the key so 5 or 10 is ok - wont be a massive difference. when the engine is warm at idle, oil pressure should be 2kg/cm2 on the standard pressure gauge if you had no oil pressure guage would show 0 and engine would cease up guaranteed idiot light would also be on so its unlikely there is NO oil in the engine, but low is possible (again less oil, means more pressure, which would show on the guage) ie - you shouldnt have 5kgcm2 oil pressure at idle, and you shouldnt have 1kgcm2 at idle either (this is when engine warm)

how much $ do you plan to spend this wil answer a lot of questions for you

factory original xenons are worth $1k skyline GTR xenons usually go for $1500+ a set hid xenon "globes" are worth $100 big big difference

they are very close, but not identical, ie the mapping data for both is slightly different but its the same either way for run of the mill applications so away you go

mythbusters ahoy! there are two known occurances of surge that we usually refer two in the GTR twin turbo setup 1) compressor surging known and heard as "flutter" when coming on boost this is a result of the pressure in the manifold going past the compressors effiency, ie the compress map says in the best scenario it can flowing at best 16psi of compression, but for some reason the manifold pressure is say 18psi so the compressors surge resulting in vl turbo style flutter on boost, ie: the compressors are out of effeiency and surging / erractic operation / wobble any form of compressor surge is bad, can be fatal, and should be avoided/corrected at any cost 2) compressor chuffing / the turbochargers chuff when coming on boost / aka shuffling this is usually caused by aftermarket pods and piping kits to the stock turbo's. basically the air reverbates and chops past the airflow meter, so it runs like a bitch. this is common with say 2530s and custom piping and pods. not very common on stockers i dont think, but certainly possible the std accordian style pipework reduces this by altering the path of airflow, when you replace with shiny smooth pipework, the problem occurs if #1 compress surging, try lowering the boost, see if that helps the compressors shouldnt surge under normal conditions could indicate compressor failure, out of balanace or chopped wheels again assuming the same problem occurs on say stock boost if #2 try seperating the pods or putting a shitload of pipework between one of them or both them, try like some good sized pool shop vacuum hose for one of both of the pods, try bending the pods intake pipes. anything to alter the intake path of air to the compressor inlet snout

walbro assume 15v for their flow levels so in a skyline @ 12v the flow is much less recommended as the others have said are bosch or nismo items (perfect fit guaranteed)

the oil line you have, did it come from the manufacturer of the turbo as part of a kit or did you just choose it cos it was new and braided lines? if it came as part of a kit, then check it has a different restrictor, and doesnt re-use your existing one if so, then its fine to proceed

it is critical you check the bearing type in the turbocharger the std skyline turbo on the R32 is a ball bearing water cooled, oil cooled turbocharger if the turbocharger you fit is different bearing type (thrust, plain, journal) bearing then YOU MUST change the oil feeds the oil feeds on your RB20 suit ball bearing - if you use a different bearing type, the oil flow lines & restrictor must be changed - that is, the turbocharger needs more oil to lubricate the bearings. if you fit the existing oil lines and it happens to be anything other than ball bearing (likely) only a small amount of oil flows into the cartridge, which will cause the turbocharger to fail DO NOT try this or even "hope" you will shag the cartridge within an hour of running the turbocharger

no idea what the recommended viscosity is ive used 5w40 and no issues - im not sure how i would check for issues?

hey gang got the car back - new timing belt, new water pump everything else checked out ok, bearings fine, bolts ok, engine A OK they even replaced my wiper blades!!!! and sourced me a replacement cam cover (thanks al) so that will go on next week all this for way under $500

pick up car soon geez the pricing is great so competitive with new water pump

well its obvious the last change you made broke it, so undo that, and youll fix your problem

the difference is the S1 AFM has two ground wires they are seperate - one is signal and the other is normal ground on the S2 car it has only 1 ground wire, so you basically join them that is, share the ground to the 2 grounds on the S1 AFM wire

if you are upgrading to get more resolution check out the Nismo AFMs they are a Z32 sensor inside a 65mm shell so you get the benefit of more resolution from the same size shell and plugs so its a direct swap and select Z32 AFMS in your ECU management (ie PFC) otherwise if you fit 80mm ones you have to change ducting, pipework, intake and plugs

bugger that - way overkill, its a std piston engine, nothing special!! oil and oil filter every 10k - my last change was 198 by a workshop and i did it last week at 208k ive never done fuel filter and neither has any workshop, so its probably got the orig factory item on it the plugs in the car i did last when the coils died so that was around 165k - so plugs would be at least 30k old ? my car blows a tiny bit of smoke when you near the life span of 10k on the oil each time, but other than that, is fine. putting in usual 5w40 oil

and ice performance did the first 100k service and timing belt

sounds like your may be dead

yeah its got 208k on the clock and still goes well std turbo, pfc, exhaust, fmic, splitfire coils, aggressive tune, gtr pump, around 180-190rwkw rest of the parts are still standard - pistons, cams, head, block, oil pump, water pump (new), diff, etc still hooks up very well and still is super crisp when driving, no issues with reliablity, never missed a beat oil pressure is great (5 litres in) and idle etc is all good. still starts first crank and is able to take most cars on the street still maintains over 400kms to a tank with some city and trash driving and the usual stuff i have never really serviced it properly (sometimes 10k, sometimes 15k etc) only recently its getting proper servicing (only started doing this about a year ago) oil is changed every 10k now - and goes to a workshop for servicing on other stuff

model will be either PFC-ECR33 (new version) or PFC-RB25 (old version) thats the model # on the side of the ECU case the actual product code is 414-AN012 for all powerfc info please read; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

my 200,000 got done today i did the oil and oil filter last week new timing belt done new water pump (current one is leaking, otherwise would have kept it) VERY competitive pricing and fast as too (lov'in it) thanks to EAS in airport west

a wastegate is pretty critical, stay clear please

Your official 2009 SAU VIC Committee President: Ash (R31Nismoid) Vice President: Bec (Bec) Treasurer: Rosco (PurpleR32) Secretary: Alan (Al)

Thanks and its good to be back! We will sit down as the exec club and elect the general committee in the next 1.5 weeks and then make an announcement. If you wish to be on the Committee to help out send in your interest - [email protected] Regards, Ash (R31Nismoid) '09 SAU VIC President

Congratulations to our new 2009 SAU VIC President; Ashley Cosgriff (R31Nismoid)