paulr33

find some pics of rosco's car (purple r32) and set yours up like that i reckon midnight purple II is better than the pshycho harlequin colour and some good gold coloured wheels TE37s or something

those seeing high knock levels or wierd knock levels with datalogit vs hand contrller you should only use one at a time, as they share the bandwidth on the FC bus that is, dont drive around with the hand cntroller and datalogit plugged in logging stuff etc only use one at a time, as if you have both plugged in, its possible during clock cycles for the hand controller to pick up a value, and then in the next clock cycle, datalogit to miss it and vice versa, so when logging only use one to view the "data" either hand controller or datalogit, not both at once to those seeing a knock of 20-30 at idle are you sure its a constant knocking ie MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, KNOCK, NEXT, then press UP is the BAR GRAPH constantly ||||--------- like that at 20 to 30 or it is like |------------ and the number underneath is 30? the number underneath when you press UP is the max at any one time so this may spike to 20-30 at some other time, its not the constant value you can press RIGHT to clear this max value

internal wastegate + screamer = sounds like an exhaust leak it wont matter how you set it up it sounds like a fart external gate if you want a screamer

of course a RWD car would keep up, why wouldnt it? its not like having AWD makes the car twice as quick just means when you loose traction, you have twice the contact area and im with tharaka, i thought it was TPG too haha as in like he owned TPG or something

do you mean going from one ECU type to another? then if thats your question, no as the ECU doesn't make power the state of the tune, so going from a remap / PFC / HKS etc to Vipec wont make any difference in power and if it does, your old ECU wasnt tuned properly if you mean from stock ecu to Vipec then yes, youll make heaps more power (everywhere)

so from that a simplistic assumption is that twins better more power, less boost and on lower octane fuel

when did the problem occur? has it ever worked (after the conversion) tried resetting stock ecu?

check the basics on the r32 where the PFC doesnt work its likely something simple is wrong (with the car, even tho stock ecu works) the std ECU is a bit stupid vs the PFC and works with hacked setups in the PFC FAQ (in my sig) look for a section on the ECCS relay it shows how a mangle car works fine with the stock ecu but doesnt with the PFC it shows how to correct it as well, from memory something with the ignition is wrong or theres a fuse missing

hi the z32 will not run on the stock ecu so dont bother but when it comes time to wire it up you join the ground wires ie on the Z32 there are two ground wires one is for signal ground and the other is just ground on the R33 S2 loom you have one ground wire, so you just join them all together but dont try it with the stock ecu - it no worky and will run like a whore

that depends on the event is it a burnout comp or a track day? tyres when they sit there get stiff and hard tyres provide traction by flexing and expanding with heat if they have sat there for ages they become stiff and hard ie they wont flex very well and will be ordinary as so if its a high speed / track event - forget it if its a burnout comp, go nuts

and last but not least if you still cant get good economy give your car with a full tank to a friend or girlfriend or mum i get they can get over 400km+ to a tank - ie; its probably your driving style light throttle in low rpm is usually best constantly loading the engine on boost is bad and will waste fuel (amplified with poor state of tune - ie: a simplistic max power tune)

hello what causes bad fuel economy? constantly loading the engine up constantly loading the engine up & bringing it on boost poor state of tune failed 02 sensors 02 sensor closed loop turned off poor throttle control bad setup injection control based on what ive seen and read in here i would check 02 feedback is turned on in the hand controller this is covered in the PFC FAQ (in my signature) check that first, it should be ON by default. has the tuner tuned your light cruise cells with a wideband sensor? don't assume this has been done, not all tuners do it, some only do it when you ask without this light cruise tuning the fuel control (esp with big injectors) can be a bit simplistic so not as good as a well light cruise tuned setup forget all this rubbish about boost and gears and other crap none of this bears any relevant to light cruise economy ie; in light cruise the engine is in (or near) vacuum and boost means nothing driving around in 4th, 5th or 6th shouldnt post much difference unless you are doing 50km/h in 6th and have to use %100 throttle to maintain road speed also check the simple things - are you really filling the tank? are you going near empty? the skylines usually go way past E before they run out and the light comes on check tyre pressure and other simple things

dont bother tuning with stock boost, its a waste of time and $ run around 10psi and tune around that, standard pump should be ok around 12psi it might run out (mine did) and i fitted a GTR pump

there you will get a good gain overall in terms of power, response, driveability, economy and overall car performance from any sort of tune wether this is a remap, a complete stand alone solution or a tune of a piggyback system such as the safc the safc system is bulletproof, cheap and does wonders for a mild GTST (like yours) tune away, however id reccommend changing to a FMIC instead before you tune it youll find the SMIC will just get heat soaked and provide little to no cooling of the intake charge once you fit an exhaust and up the boost to around 12psi. also before you get it tuned replace the standard 02 sensor. they die after around 50,000kms ish and the part is about $100 the 02 sensor is solely responsiblie for gettign good fuel economy. with a good setup you can have plently of power and 400km's to tank each time easily

oh ok yeah maybe they dont exist i guess you could find a friend who has one of these on their 33's and check out how it installs vs your R32 chassis

my recommendations fit the std bov in plumb back mode replace with a known working AFM the likely suspect is your BOV, its probably venting vacuum pressure and its enough to annoy the AFM which makes the car stutter and hesisate

yeah i was about to say, theres no way it would plug in so yeah you had a boomslang extension which converted to an R33 GTR PFC (what a waste) id say there could be numerous things wrong go find a local work shop who can tune skylines and get them to fix it its too hard and complex to play interenet mechanic

if you dont want to cut the chassis to fit the pipework then get a return intercooler kit that uses your factory pipework no mess, no cutting, and uses the factory pipes HKS make one, it aint cheap tho and BLITZ do one too

no problems ferah, our deepest condolences from all at sau vic just wish there was something else we could do we are here anytime you need to talk

why on earth are you using a BNR34 PFC on an R33? are you sure? from memory the main ECU socket is different there are many differences on the wiring loom (and socket is different too) so theres no way it would work ie: you cant plug an R34 ECU into an R33 Car what car do you have? what model PFC do you have? (Whats the model # on the metal case)

1370kg http://www.motortraders.net/imports/spec.asp?id=622

remember, the killowatts mean nothing to a clutch, its the torque from the engine that frys it if it was me and i was going for over 250rwkw i would go for the nismo single plate clutch kit (it comes with a lightening flywheel) failing that, i would go for a nismo twin plate with the nismo cluthes they follow a premium price but you can be sure it will fit correctly, mate up and be rated correctly driveability will be the same as std (ie easy and spot on) if you go for a custom clutch etc you may find driveability sucks ie: it stalls its ass off each time unless you ride it like a whore or its mega springy (mega excessive centre sprung) so it bites really sharp

the standard clutch cant keep up with the std turbo and std mods, that is exhaust, intercooler, tune, more boost etc so even at 180/190rwkw it will slip and eventually fail the issue with the clutch (any) is they (when they fail) cant handle the torque from the engine this usually happens when the engine is ramping up on boost, the most torque is typically made then when it "fails" the engine free revs as its ramping on boost, so it goes 1500rpm, 2000rpm, then slips to 4000rpm each time its slips its doing damage the flywheel and other components, so making it slip all the time is a bad thing if you continue to drive with a slipping clitch youll need to machine the flywheel and possibly fix other busted shit typically a good clutch will be at least $1000 for a mild GTST setup i got a heavy duty clutch for $1200 for my 190rwkw GTST and its tough as nails ive known a few guys go for sub $500 clutches with 200rwkw+ and they fry them you get what you pay for and the clutch, being the single component connecting the engine & drivetrain its essential that its prefect and strong to handle the load from it its well known that sub $500 "300rkwkw" rated clutches are junk

young jedi you have much to learn please read stand alone tuneable ECU such as apexi powerfc this ECU is junk

i would wrap it around anything near the turbo housing ie any fluid based pipework etc