paulr33

is it in an R34 skyline or stagea? look at SENSOR SW CHECK, what do you see? any sensor names black highlighted? if so, what ones and what values are they

you need fuel pump (required) intercooler (excessive heat intake, not required, but a good idea) piggyback or stand alone or remap (youll encounter standard protection if you dont) exhaust (dont need, but a good idea) and it sohuld be fine

its a ramp that increases over the RPM range so it 3000rpm it could be 3.1v and at say 5500rpm it could be 4.1v who knows, but its a linear ramp - why do you care? get a real ecu or piggyback or remap or keep turn boost down until you avoid it

what are you using to control boost what actuator or gate spring are you using

assumption city they are basically the same, the s2 cant handle more boost anything around 12 or higher will kill the turbine, or put it at risk running 12psi or higher, you are basically saying, i accept if the turbo fails and have $ to replace it this is same for R33 series 1 or 2 the s2 has a different compressor wheel, but its far from stronger

you certainly can just come and see our club secretary (al) or anyone from the committee for the forms etc

theres bugger all difference between s2 and r34 turbo both are ceramic and plastic/nylon compressor wheels none of them are steel wheel the r33 s2 should have 45v2 on the front from memory and the R34 will have a bigger rear housing i think its 0.58 or 0.60 and OP6 may be on there not sure if thats a VG30et housing spec only or R34 as well, but its about the same size theres 10kw difference between the two and both fail above 12psi on an RB25det

yeah youd be better off going for autronic smc for sure these range of ecu's are really geared, feature wise, price wise for motorsport competition sure you can use it in a mild street no problems, but typically the cost and features dont suit ie its too expensive and you dont need remote telemetry to track what gear you are in

the stock afm is able to max much lower than 230rwkw ive seen max and i have 190rwkw you can still tune with it maxing, and its important to note when it maxes maxing at 6500rpm means nothing, maxing at 3000rpm to redline just means it runs like a map sensor and its annoying to tune still workable, just have to juggle load points its typically accepted that you replace it past 200rwkw to ensure you use as many load points as possible, which makes for a better tune

no one locally can tune the FCON sell it and buy something locally supported find a few local recommended tuners and see what they tune/prefer

if you are going to consider a vipec go for an autronic or motec unit instead probably the same price, more tuners available and probably better product support given its more mature

diff gears or VCT on 26 head

i service mine every 10k as well

they are different and you cant interchange them - be careful you are probably leaning your engine out do it properly before you break something

not sure first off i did the boost hack (i made the howto doco) then i did the hks EVC at 0.85 bar then did the pfc boost kit at 0.85 bar std turbo 210,000kms and still goes well its been to drags, motorkhana, plenty of street abuse

read the rb26 turbo upgrade thread stickied at the top it has all the info you need but in short simplistic summary, twins provide better and more linear response which is better

$700 on a boost controller is insane, there are cheaper options for sure check out ebay and look for a 2nd hand unit if you want just check their feedback etc. but for std turbo a single solenoid unit is fine ive ran 12psi or 0.85 for about 4 years now on the same std turbo 210,000km and still going fine. my recommendation if you have $ to burn apexi powerfc, hand controller and powerfc boost control kit unbeatable

read the first page and it depends when you max the Z32 its been covered in the past search for Q45 youll find all the info on this forum

you tune the best you can and run it map sensor style that is, the load axis maxes out, and doesn't increase anymore so it still works, its just not the best idea lastly if you have a single AFM setup ie ECR33 and want twin AFMS you need an inline piggyback hacker such as SAFC to bridge two Z32s into 1 single Z32 signal

fyi it should work however... ive got a generic datalogit box and i couldnt get it working on ER34 PFC dont know if there was something special or something cookiy, but it wouldnt work my box has worked fine on ECR33, RB26 and SR20

most insurance policies cover someone "test driving" the car, as long as the owner gives consent its usually covered of course, they dont have to let you drive it, but its typically covered

why would you ever risk your hard earn $ and time and run a std ecu? if you cant run it properly, dont run it at all too often we see guys spend $$$$ put a stock ecu with heaps of mods cos they cant be assed waiting they load it up and bring it on boost and cause damage youve been warned

the PFC FAQ Covers how to mangle the rb26 djetro for use the rb25, but there is no gain in anything it costs more, you have to do some custom work and wire changes etc, you also loose VCT, so you need a box/controller for that its by far easier to use normal RB25 PFC and just get a larger scaled AFM such as Z32 this is by far the easiest, cheapest and quickest method to get it working again

how? with a real tune & a real ecu - ie go back to the PFC or get the link installation sorted and tuned properly if its got a map sensor it should be setup accordingly, along with air temp sensor to correct itself * WINNER *

just be careful with mega CC injectors and low rated or normal size pumps the issue here is that, if it leans out, and your on full load (typical) then your AFRS plummet off the planet and the engine goes bang youll have very little warning / chance to save it, if this occurs so, if you install mega CC injectors, you are taking a big risk by keeping a low rated pump your risking a $10k+ setup for the sake of $400 ish on a larger flowing pump the pump wont fail, and if it does, this is ok, as fuel stops flowing, the engine stalls the issue becomes critical when not enough fuel flows, ie ; the pump cant keep up the engine has enough fuel to keep running, but the AFRS plummet and it goes bang so Nosure - your pump wont fail, and if it does, thats ok, the tuners concern is, if it cant keep up demand, then its bad