paulr33

yeah voice over IP is fine, but you can't be running torrents etc when making phone calls voice IP technology is pretty clever these days and its able to fill in missing packets and use predictive voice filling etc and your brain is able to patch up missing voice segments also so its only really sucky like ash said when raiping downloads ive setup a 250seat callcentre on a voice over IP and its bulletproof mind you, thats a full cisco setup etc, but even your average home setup is fine

what did you last change? when did it last work? what ecu? have you tried stock ecu diag or consult check of all basic sensors? have you checked all wiring, plugs, loom, fuses have you tried swapping plugs to see if the "no fire cylinder" follows ?

you dont really need - you should spend some more time reading, less time making new threads to reset the ecu undo the black battery terminal (it attaches to the frame) and pump the brake pedal this drains all the power from the car, which will include resetting the stock ecu the idle might be a bit grumpy but it should auto adjust itself (the idle) thats all there is too it really

here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...sions-f184.html

go read the RB30 specific section at the top of forced induction it would have everything you need to know about the 3 litre build and best practices theres also a sticky thread on rb30 turbo packages and the power they make

what are you trying to achieve? how much money do you have? how much power do you want to make? what turbocharger do you want to use?

i have had my PFC for about 5 years now and i also have datalogit i have found the hand controller very useful for; - checking peak boost to make sure my controller isn't spiking / being stupid - checking levels of detonation - checking water temp - adjusting correction from time to time on water temp - temp ign adjusts when excessive detonating occurs (shit fuel etc) - checking ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK when engine check light comes on (my TPS is intermittent faulty) - adjusting boost in summer, i had my duty set too high and so on... without the hand controller i couldnt do any of that, nor could i actually see whats going on without the hand controller, the PFC is basically the same as the stock ECU (minus the tune ability). that is, everything is locked away, you have no visibility, and no control even if you dont know what you are doing, the hand controller is such as a simple and powerful tool you may find youll be wishing you brought the hand controller once you have it up and running just be careful where you place and store it etc. you dont have to adjust stuff, but its great to be able to and youll find it heaps easier to sell your PFC with a hand controller, instead of without one fyi - ive left my hand controller on my dash, above the glovebox velcro'd there for about 5 years have parked the car near train stations, shops, streets, in the city, carparks, work etc this is with an RSM on the dash, VAFC on the dash and turbo timer and head unit and dvd player not a single issue ....

when you reset the ECU its likely to do a standard idle adjustment and check standard sensors thats about it, theres no magical self, auto AFR adjust etc, its just a quick power on self test from memory it throws in 2 deg of extra timing until it see's detonation and then backs off the timing wether this is via the dropping to the penis fuel map or just using quick ign shift, but yeah 2 deg shift, then wait for detonation i have no known evidence or possible reasoning behind - auto adjustment of AFRs - self tuning for fuel economy - any other assumptions from an ECU reset

when the light is on, there is approx 7 litres of fuel left under normal plodding around on cruising i would expect about 30kms before you should panic and stop driving

well thats a different story...

are you sure of this? i mean engines and injectors run for many 100,000kms without any cleaning or changing etc and they work fine

ive almost drained mine, seen the fuel light, it definetly works, series 2 R33 no issues with fuel light

yeah there is a std fuel light it comes on when you go past empty when you drain the tank, its about 450kms+ the fuel light will go on and off near then end and then finally stay on so until you get to E and go past it the light wont come on

as the others have said, the NISMO AFM is actually a Z32 sensor inside a GTR shell so when you plug it in, you choose VG30 from the PFC menu and the base map is done for you so its no different to tuninig Z32's and as matt femno said, you can probably get away with them on their knee's ie it will work ok

4mbps is alright, its better than 512kbps or 128kbps, or 56kbps haha adsl2+ speeds vary all over the shop, i remember in my old job at a top 10 ISP the adsl2+ speeds we surveyed where all over the joint, hardly any where near the maximum from memory we had one guy get 26mbps, all the rest were WAYYYYY under

ive had a few friends recently get locked out of their windows & office just a reminder if you have a dodgy windows XP or office xp / 2003 that you should not update it via windows update - make sure you disable it if you keep getting updates, it will eventually come up with the windows geniune thingy (or office) and it will lock you out, thus you cant use it you will only get locked out, when its trying to do updates etc, so if you never do windows update / office update - then a non legit key is fine and will work so if you are using warezd / keygend / hackd etc copies, disable all the updates and dont run any updates. most of the updates are only useful if your pc is direct connected to the internet (and not nat'd) so for most, they updates arent really that exciting. source your driver updates from your hardware vendor website instead of windows update

lots of searching a great ECU is the Apexi PowerFC when your girlfriend is driving just educate her, when you floor it, it goes on boost, and it goes fast. pretty simple

hey shaun can you pm FastHatch (he replied in this thread) he is keen to speak with you about it

its in the FAQ ETC, DATA INIT, choose Yes reboot the car

go the rb20 PFC, when you change engines, selll the RB20 PFC (they hold great value, or go up in price) and buy an RB25 PFC

then the car to ON, but don't start it with consult mash the accel pedal, TPS should go from 0.3v to around 3.4v AFM should 0.5v at ON, but not running and when running should be 1.1v idle agree with mad082, it wont be TPS or AFM go see a mechanic, save guessing

dingoblue? didnt that die in 1992, it was a sub-offshoot from optus from memory? they had unlimited dialup and went bust. you could dial in once in the month, and the modem would never drop out it was great back in 1992...... if you want fast and it to just work check out bigpond its not cheap, but premium service theres not many unlimited ISP's in australia

its probably more beneficial to install a fmic and do it properly over the SMIC find a local workshop and ask for a price for a FMIC supplied / fitted should be near $500 mark - why would you bother with a SMIC in that case?

yeah you need FCC1, FCC2 and FCC3 wont help knocking fixing on the road is no problem its heaps easier with datalogit anyway let me know when u want to do it

you can move the AFMS but another known work around when you replace the accordian pipework is to place a bend in the ducting if you look at the HKS ducting kits, in front of the AFM and between the pods, there is usually a bend, the bend is usually enough to break the reversion issue from memory the reversion only occurs when the ducting is perfectly straight or a slight bend