paulr33

are you expecting anything specific from this turbocharger? it sounds like a pretty generic ebay typical t3/t04 dinosaur spec turbo was it sub $500 ?

this is covered in the FAQ and was recently updated, you should check it if the PFC case has a silver shiny FC Pro~~~ sticker on the side of the ECU case, this does NOT mean its an FC Pro unit, its just the software designation so the only legit was is to check via what the hand controller displays, or as Madaz said, check the box packaging

change the setting back ?

the main difference between highflow and rebuild is the highflow fits higher flowing components, whereas the rebuild uses standard items. both include new compressor wheel new exhaust wheel new bearings CHRA balance and clean at least a proper rebuild would, so either way, you basically end up with a new turbocharger. the only thing that is old and not replaced is the housings, as they don't wear out. the highflow version uses higher flowing compressor wheel, they bore out the exhaust snout, fit a larger exhaust wheel. so it can flow more, and the compressor can put in more airflow/pressure. the standard BNR32 turbochargers are ceramic and 0.42 a/r compressor the bnr32 N1 turbochargers would be steel wheelies and 0.60 a/r compressor (from memory) so the n1 is by far superior, better exhaust wheel (steel vs ceramic) and larger compressor and rear housing check the N1 specs, as i think they could be a touch different, just make sure BNR32 n1's are 0.60/ar

what ecu and what other mods have u tried ECU reset

cost? $0 tools needed? apexi fc pro software and cable or datalogit cable and software (both are around $400 to buy as a kit) time taken? 5 seconds password locked? no, it is not locked by a password or secret key, its simply a "LOCK" setting on the PFC to make it show 0's on the hand controller any damage done when you unlock? yes datalogit has a known bug where it mangles injector settings so you need to re-update the injector settings once unlocked how? plug in datalogit or apexi fc pro, turn car to ON or start it, in datalogit click on "unlock". click update. all done the hand controller will display all the numbers and the tune is the same etc im in melbourne and have datalogit, can unlock for beer

98deg water temp is ok, it is a little high (check basics) but it wont kill the engine etc just drive it normally once you are able to and the radiator has some airflow once you drive it normally with airlfow, the temp should drop pretty reasonably to mid 80s the ECU has correction based on water temp and will start taking out timing above certain levels if water temp is near 110deg i would be worried - the stock guage cluster should be near 3/4 at this level

picking an ECU is a pretty important part of modifying your car selecting the wrong ECU can cost you time, money and lots of frustration the ECU plays a crucial role in how the car acts, runs, performs and drives forget the max power rwkw for a moment and think about the important things to you and your car essentially any ECU you choose will make the same power etc so thats not important most people when they pick an ECU go - oh sick, no AFM, or sick as, it has anti lag, spark cut, pro launch etc these are good buzz words but if your car is an average street car that you drive normally and it has a bit of power whats the point of all these fangdangle features and junk? will they add any value or do they just sound cool? the most important things for an ECU for a mild street car are - start first shot, cold start, fuel economy, ease of tune, resale value, plug and play and a simple interface. all of these "nice" features are thrown in the bin when you have to wire it in, have only 1 or 2 tuners who can tune it, if it ditches some of the factory sensors in place of aftermarket ones or has annoying operability. you should understand the key differences between the various forms of technology to understand how the car wil be before/after the change. do some reading on map sensors and airflow meters to understand which may be better in your situation and why most people go - oh sick, it uses a map sensor, thats gotta be better - do some reading and double check, you may be surprised be careful when selecting an ECU thats new on the market or isnt very common when you are looking at these ecu's factor in how many workshops can tune it and how accessible they are there is no point having the latest greatest ECU and only 1 workshop in your state can tune then you are locked into their pricing, their service and their "timeframes" etc. you will find on this forum a lot of people and probably some tuners, are biased towards the apexi powerfc you will find this is simply due to their ease of use, access to trillions of tuners, cost, and plug and play

usually its the plug that dies or is the culprit (vl style tm) check the plug and make sure its not wonky/loose or buy one of the rb25 afms listed in here make sure you match the colour label and it will be a direct swap

why bother with a 40psi boost controller? if its too complex, it probably is a boost controller should be fairly easy to set sell it, and buy something more normal? otherwise google for some instructions

why are you playing detective and crime stopper? i mean sure it sucks stuff got stolen but theres little you can do yourself the police are there to police the situation before it happens, and detectives there to identify and detect the crime i just dont get the whole slueth work - as long as you have insurance, claim and away you go

i wonder what mine is set to, i know dr drift said the factory position was best but i wonder if its different ive got the bass junky factory hack cam gear adjustable thingy on mine my top end does feel a bit flat ish - always has and my car never made mega power, 191rwkw was its peak but the response and low down power is absolutely amazing - even with 213kms on the clock now, its still got amazing response standard rb25det with usual mods, std turbo, std cams, cam gear adjusty thingy, assloads of ignition timing (peaks near 53deg) on the map but im dead certain the CAS is backdialed a touch too

insurance for the parts?

please advise if this is safe or not? guys will try this - please confirm ?

see you all there

im not even sure 14psi is safe, i mean theres no exact number that makes it safe and unsafe there are many factors that would cause it to fail, but im sure if you surveyed all GTR owners the number where the standard turbochargers failed would be around 14psi one car may run 14psi for 2 months and fail - one car may run 14psi for 2 years and be fine but, and a big BUT, if you are running say 14psi, i guess you need drive it, knowing, that they may fail if you can't accept that outcome/consequence and can't afford the rebuild, then you should around 12psi its not guaranteed they wont fail at 12psi, but the chances are certainly reduced my 33 gtst has been running 12psi for about 5 years on the standard turbo with 210kms on the clock im surprised it still hasn't failed but seems to be going alright. when i set it at 12psi i accepted the fact that it would likely fail and need a rebuild and/or new turbocharger when it goes bad 14psi may be, but its a risk, it just seems with the RB26's, why i dont know its more likely when one of them fails, it takes the engine with it

the voltage displayed under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, AIRFLOW is the unadjusted voltage the PFC doesn't adjust the voltage as part of the tune, it uses the base voltage in arithmetic like this; SELECT LOAD from AIRLFOW TABLE WHER VOLTAGE = Lookup(AFM1) then it applies correction to the load index and goes from there. the voltage is never adjusted by the ECU, why would it? only interceptors modify voltage inline like you said as this is the only way

17 psi on stock turbochargers?!??!?!?!?!?!?! for what purpose? your engine is at risk for basically no gain the compressor wheels would be out of their efficiency and would be adding in a fair bit of heat into the intake charge it doesn't matter if you run 17psi for a drag or for street or whatever basically once you load it up, the excessive shaft speed and heat will cause a failure its likely (very likely) with the standard ceramics to kill a piston or two when it happens so if you have the $ ready to go for a new engine then keep it at 17psi

yeah all and any of the solutions require a datalogit cable or apexi cable theres also the kashima original cables and software he did

the guy has probably reset it, you should reset it when you install it in your car anyway i would be very cautious running someone else tune, even with the same mods could be a timebomb, and it may time longer to fix someone else;s tune than a complete tune i dont get your real vs actual, it will just display the voltage on the AFM wire

try 350z wheels on R34 GTT or try rampant imports im pretty sure they stock BNR34 wheels

apexi powerfc pro software apexis legit product, lets you tune via a PC/laptop and edit all the usual stuff, plus you can edit AFM curves (cant do via hand controller) datalogit 3rd party product, lets you tune via a PC/laptop and edit all the usuall stuff, plus you can edit AFM curves (cant do via hand controller) hand controller the usual tool that most people use there are a few other clones floating around to do the same job as datalogit, one of them is fc tune, google it and there are a few others but cant think of their names, from memory none of these are in production stage, just testing/hobby stage out of all the options, datalogit is my choice

the apexi software requires activation, and you can't xfer it, its got stupid protection built into the program you would be by far better off with datalogit. ive got the japanese version of the apexi fc pro and its nothing special datalogit seems to be more flexible and give you access to more things, although datalogit is not perfect (some little interface annoyances etc) i would recommend finding datalogit 2nd hand if you really really want the legit apexi one, go for it, but be aware of its built in activation and copy protection i tried to break around it just to see what it looked like before considering buying it, but no go so can only view the japense version and its mangled characters everything but you get the jist of the program

please be careful when doing this, but if you practice and take it easy and tune under 3000rpm you should be ok. FYI i added around +12 on my map under 3 grand and it loves it sometimes peak ignition timing i see on my hand controller is 53-53deg. but i think my CAS is a bit backdialed, so just cos mine can take 53deg doesn't mean yours will. mine is 210k RB25 stock with stock everything

are you sure the CAT light is flashing? turn the car to ON, but don't start it the main console should light up every light (ie, in diag mode) on the dash show me which light it flashing - is it RED or ORANGE? the ORANGE engine check light flashes when the car knocks over 60 injectors max at 98% afms max at 5v check which light you are seeing and read the PFC FAQ in my sig, to learn how to work out which one is maxing if its the organge engine check light. ive never seen a PFC make the CAT temp light flash, usually the cat temp sensor is disconneted (its useless)