paulr33

well new clutch a typical heavy duty to suit GTST is probably around $1200 fitted ish ? dont trash it around anymore youll do damage to the flywheel if you keep slipping it if you baby it around, it will last a bit longer just dont load it up on boost

yeah the part # is in the PFC FAQ, i brought it and tried it but couldnt get it working i think it needs some form of firmware code on the actual controller board as its not just a screen, but a complete controller board with a 20 pin connector so i tried it, and no good i brought a blue one, with white writing welcome to try, the part was only $20 but youll probably break your hand contrller trying

there are some minor differences on the loom so you can certainly do it, but you need to be aware of the differences TPS has extra wires and plug on S1 from memory AFM has extra wires on S1 Check if the ignitor pack / setup has different wiring (it is physically different)

clutch is slipping does it smell ? do the revs free climb just before 3 grand? the most torque is during boost building up, near 3000rpm so if the clutch is shaggged and its slips, its usually happens here and it free revs and then resumes to grip

limiter and gate

Happy birthday and all the best from the sau vic crew Hope you had a good weekend and enjoyed the night the food was soooooooooooooo good!!!!

agree with femno and al on the street vs semi tyres nothing wrong with doing it in street tyres plenty of the guys have and do the last thing you want to do is come to something like deca with semi's on and have no idea how its going to handle

in standard form? no you could i guess pair up each ignition driver, much like with the stock ecu

they are solid state devices and the PFC has an nvram chip to save its tune even with a few months of no piower etc, it won't loose the state of tune and if the state of tune is lost, which would be unlikely as its nvram, and not a battery backed cache then you just re-tune it, no mess no fuss im not aware of any "age" issues with either the PFC or stock ecu

i agree so how does one fix - is it fixable inside the ecu somehow

BNR32 PFC and BCNR33 PFC are the same unit, which is why they would likely have the same issue

it depends as the AFM and injectors may need more work to have them tune and you should clarify what you call a "tune" as it might not be the same among tuners some may just give you a max power tune and some may give you an on-road tune and some may do a combination of both if you just get a max power tune, youll likely have sucky fuel economy so be sure that fuel economy is setup and tuned and if its just a dyno tune, its likely when you get the car and trash the pants off it on the street, that it will knock as the load is slightly different on the dyno, so either take note of this or enquire if an on-road check/tune is needed my max power GTST tunes have been around $400 ish that was back in 2005/2006 and it was setup of car, max power tune, quick economy trim more work was required to fix on-road knocking and on-road fuel economy later (these would be seperate costs i assume? - i did them myself)

hi you need apexi part no 415-N001 which is old first generation nissan hand controller, this will work on AP Engineering powerFC Rb20det www.nengun.com have it online for AUD $444. on the back of the hand controller it will be FCC or FCC NT most people will have FCC 3 which is 415-X001 and it is NOT suitable for AP Engineering FC rb20det, it will freeze at the apexi logo check here; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#70

twin scroll on an sr20 properly setup would beat a pair of mangled twins on it

happy birthday and all the best from the sau vic team have a good one

oh sorry yeah you are right, i was thinking it was the dip switches that did the internal external my bad - ok so i would just leave them? whats the issue when you do the self learn?

the dip switches on the back are to set internal or external wastegate mode and also from memory are used as part of the hks link system which is what the rj12 socket next to it is for so check the manual, it should show you how to set internal or external gate via the dip switches then self learn when did mine was easy you turn on the self learn mode it shows -3- then you take off in 3rd gear and redline it then it shows -2- do the same in 3rd gear and then it shows -1- do the same then its complete and self learn is done you take off in 3rd so it has time to learn the boost build ramp

for timing i used the temp ing adjust to add +10 and drove around kept it under 3 grand and gave it some curry watched the knock levels and then updated the map from there see if you can add +5 deg using the temp adjust and see how you go but from memory 7 on the RPM axis is 2800 so be careful around here my 7x7 IGN value is 38

once you have the answer can you please (or someone) write up a FAQ and place it in the tutorial section there is common confusion over which garret equiv model is the HKS model and so forth this would remove endless posts, frustration and speculation over which is which

ok so ive checked the advert and i actually thought it was a trust td05-20g but its an actual td05-20g equivalent turbocharger in size and looks there are no tags, id plates or specifications/numbers on the covers, housings or components it looks like a very cheap, ordinary typical ebay spec turbocharger their warranty is 3 months and it cant be used for any illegal street racing so im not sure how they would "validate" the illegal street racing bolt it on and watch the shaft mangle itself a sub $2k turbocharger is top of the range, highest spec not only in parts, components, well matched and suited correctly spec'd wheels, trim and housing and not to mention the dump setup, intake snout etc the bearings, oil fittings, and assembly are top notch and balanced correctly. the unit will last's 100,000kms + and doesn't miss a beat - from a manufacturer who has been making turbochargers for trucks and cars since 1936 but here's this no brander spec turbocharger for $700 and people expect the world from sub $500+ ebay turbochargers for that WRX guy the standard turbo on his car is probably better spec than this ebay one thats pretty comon these days, a lot of skyline guys find cheap ebay turbos for $500 and they are pathetic the standard hitachi unit is better and more reliable. i mean my hitachi turbocharger is 213,000km old and still flies with 12psi up it if you want to fit a new turbocharger to your car, budget $2k for the turbocharger its like buying a new plasma tv or LCD tv sure you can buy a new unit for $600 under some ching chong brand but no one does, they are junkers, poor warranty, poor basic units everyone goes for the nice flashy $2500 pioneer, sony etc as they are a good well known brand well known parts, reputable warranty, they can go back to their local jb hifi and get help etc what on earth - its frustrating and heartbreaking when guys buy these junker turbochargers, expect a reliable setup and to make more power and less lag only to have it mangle everything, not to mention nothing mates up during install

the correction should be the same wether its via the fc pro software or the hand controller see if you an find someone else who has used sard 850cc injectors

the wrx whilst a great car is an expensive platform and needs $ to get good power from it a skyline typical gtst can output 200rwkw no problems on standard turbo and piggyback, 12psi thats because its an inline6 2.5 litre the wrx is a 2.0, v4 cylinder engine so its smaller, less cylinders and it has a larger turbo to get any power out of them you have to really wind the boost up on them that td05-20g is tiny, its probably smaller the factory EJ20 turbocharger the stock turbo is actually quite large for standard spec

no issues with the ecu, dont know the first thing about it. a great feature list is great if you need those features just be wary how many people can tune it and if its plug and play or mange your loom install if theres only 1 or 2 workshops who can work / tune it and you dont like their pricing, waiting lists, service etc, you got nothing its the same as HKS FCON and some of the other high end ECU's sure awesome, does everything, top of range. 1 tuner. awesome

you should always run a spring to the target boost as close as possible ie using a 10psi or 12psi spring and trying to run 18psi-20psi is going to be impossible to control for any good electronic unit so my advice is to simply fit a better spring, go as close as possible to the target until you sort out the mechanical spring side no electronic controller will work correctly

it would be possible for the car to turn off when the hand controller is plugged in ive seen my fuel pump control reset and re-prime the pump wen the hand controller is plugged in