paulr33

no need to, the stock turbo will do 200rwkw

its in the FAQ - select VG30 AFM From the menu - the VG30 is the engine which uses the Z32 AFM this will load the base ramp values for the Z32 - it still needs a full tune when you change AFM

level of 40 knock is reasonable levels of detonation - check the tune or just make sure all is ok see if backing out 1 or 2psi removes that level of knocking, if so it might need 1 or 2deg taken out on the map somehwere keep an eye on it (covered in the PFC FAQ) at 60 the engine check light will flash

there were wales at lorne for the last 2 weeks in a row, not sure if they are still there

there are issues by going shortly over the limit of the standard turbocharger the first is it wont make any more power past 12psi, and it just throws out tons of heat and second is it puts the turbocharger and engine at great risk, the shaft speed can cause it to fail and the excessive heat can cause the exhaust wheel to fail (as its ceramic) so you dont get any extra power and you put it all at great risk for the sake of having a "scramble" or "high boost" mode you are far better off having the car and controller set at whatever safe limit you can run, 11psi is prefect on the stock turbo. when you drive in the rain or snow, just drive like a normal person does, don't floor it and drive easily the turbocharger will only wind up and put out power if you stomp on the accel pedal so guess what, if you floor it, its going to come on boost and give you some power, so dont when its when or just go easy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ge...-T-t282359.html

my suggestions shagged engine shagged clutch blown cooler pipe joiners when the turbochargers on the RB26 fail they can and often do shag the engine as well typically ceramic dust gets into the cylinders and kills a piston or two so check basic compression and health check your clutch check standard engine diagnostics

the great ocean rd starts just after torquay which is about 25 minutes past geelong head up princes hwy past geelong and continue past geelong, don't go through geelong its a waste of time follow the signs to great ocean road you will pass through anglesea (can fish here) you will pass through pt road knight (can fish here) you will pass through aireys inlet (can fish here) you will pass through lorne (can fish here) you will pass through appollo bay (can fish here) the best roads are between aireys inlet / fairhaven and lorne try and leave space for slow cars dont sit up someone's ass and annoy them dont get overzealous and come off / get into trouble take it easy and have fun but be careful, some of the corners can suprise you if you arent experienced on the way home from lorne, you can head back via the otways, these roads are great you can stay basically anywhere, recommendations are lorne or appollo bay overnight apollo bay is a fair drive, 2.5 hours from geelong so plan ahead there is premium in anglesea, shell on the right hand side lorne is the typical place most people drive to in a day trip you can fish on the pier there, lots of people do and the fish co-op there has great seafood and fish for lunch/dinner to cook up

the main difference with the older EVC was price and the basic control unit, no fancy screen you are paying premium $ for the screen

how much do you want to spend boost controllers are basically set and forget once you set it properly and you floor it, guess what, you reach max boost so any electronic controller is really suitable i mean you spend $800+ on a boost controller for 3 bar boost and scramble and display etc but what on earth for ??? scramble is pointless, if you can run 12psi safely, then run it all the time, if you can 21psi safely, run it all the time etc if you want all the fandangle crap get the apexi aVC-R but be prepared to pay $$$ for it and be prepared to spend time setting it up properly and tuning it ive got the powerfc boost control kit which is the same parts as the AVCR but without the screen and its fine its an add-on kit to the apexi PFC stand alone ECU so it works and plugs in no mess no fuss i had an old 2nd hand HKS EVC III and it worked awesome ,cheap simple, electronic, overboost protection no fancy screen, no fandangle, nice and cheap, set and forget

before you even consider doing a replacement SMIC please read in full detail; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...40&start=40 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tml&hl=smic http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...tml&hl=smic i would go straight for the GTR intercooler its perfect and a factory item

yeah try and always go for the specifric fc edit version i think the universal was a re-write from screatch but same interface i use the universal for looking at maps but any actualy changes etc i use the fc edit for the specific car no need to re-init and re-learn thats in the PFC itself and nothing to do with Fc edit

yeah try lower baud rate, but shouldnt make a diff or could be a bug with BNR34 Fc datalogit code are youi using BNR34 fc edit or fc edit universal ?

like the ending of the italian job (the original)

yeah slow the port rate down - it shouldnt need much? is the hand controller plugged in at the same time? if so, ditch it are you using a true serial port or USB emulator? if so, ditch it, use true serial port, if you cant check USB port settings, make sure power managfement is off on the USB controller etc, and make sure the laptop doesnt have any shutdown / idle out / power manageemtn settings etc

there's a fair bit of work on the BNR32/BCNR33 misfire bug worth a read if you are still experiencing misfiring intermittently http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/My...51#entry4767151

this would seem logical and explain the intermitteancy of the misfiring maybe its only when the power is turned up and the accuracyt of the spark is critical ie with stock ecu and stock power its fine turn the wick up and change ECU and its critical

my best advice is come to the sau vic meetings every 3rd tuesday in melbourne plently of members there could give you tons of advice on buying a new gtr no worries

all the best from sau vic have a good one and take it easy

sorry i retract that, i am thinking of the Monsta T70 turbochargers my bad

please check the ebay parts thread in the howto section - they are junk - stay away

yeah if the PFC is making clicking noises either the wiring loom is mangled or the PFC is damaged either way do a wire trace, identify any issues in the loom, correct them and restore it back see if the car runs ok with normal stock ECU to confirm loom is ok, then try the PFC

yeah if the PFC is making clicking noises either the wiring loom is mangled or the PFC is damaged either way do a wire trace, identify any issues in the loom, correct them and restore it back see if the car runs ok with normal stock ECU to confirm loom is ok, then try the PFC

do you want more rwkw or more acceleration? they are different things

i would expect 0rwkw increase, there would be an increase in throttle response and transition time from closed to half open etc the throttle body doesnt make power, air and fuel in the system does, so increase air and youll make more power