paulr33

my site covers what a Z32 FAKE afm looks like check it out, paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com it has pics of a fake / dodgy unit that someone brought

go ask vicroads or read the rules its for if you require a certian model car/engine for work purposes ie driving a ute with a v8 for work as you move around heavy stuff etc you could try exemption from your employer saying you must drive a v8 ute or whatnot

id say youve damaged the ecu change to another ECU and check again youve probably fried the AFM too

yeah some contridicting terms and matches here given your knowledge, experice and what you want do this r33 GTST + FMIC + good cold air intake + fuel pump + apexi powerfc + heavy duty clutch + splitfire coilpacks + 3" turbo back exhaust + 255 wide rear tyres + aggressive tune get a good power tune and tons of ignition timing all over the map learn to drive and you'll find it almost unbeatable on the street it will make an easy 200rwkw and have plenty of response if tuned properly that vs your rb30det will save headaches, $, time, effort and risk if get you EPA'd the cost difference between above and an rb30det setup is probably 10k all up at least? or an even better and more cost effective option is to buy someone else's modified R33 already there are dozens that have had complete builds on them done and all the expensive stuff brought and the owner is ready to offload for a fraction of the price. check out Dezz's R33 GTST it has everything you would ever want in a GTST and its for sale, by far more cost effective

do you mean the USB cable? if possible go for the true serial port version and dont use a serial port to USB dongle and where possible run something like windows98 and not windows vista

theres a howto thread in the tutorial section on how to remove the water line through the throttle body

you could get that out of a properly setup rb25 for response and power you wouldnt need to bother with a rb30det for 200rwkw and response a mild gtst setup correctly with the right mods and driver will be responsive from 2000rpm and make 200rwkw no problems

this is covered in the FAQ but you typically follow the rule of thumb, keep adding more timing until it kncoks, then take out 2 deg using datalogit you can achieve this quiet easily by using the temp correction on the hand controller to shift the entier tune up say 5deg plod around and see how much kncok you get, if its ok, then set that +5 onto the whole map and save the tune then drive around with knock map watch and back out any cells manually that kncok around 20-30 your typical knock levels should hover around 10ish this meanst there is enoguh timing in it to make it work hard enough and knock a touch but take in mind if your tuning it aggressively now, when summer hits, it may knock more, so keep that it in mind

i would imagine a bit of effort to ensure you have a better cold air intake would negate any gains from this given its probably a no brander china ching chong ebay part its probably rubbish

hate to say it but this is what you get for cheap knock off items on ebay / 2nd hand traders its probably autobahn 88 or something cheap etc if it was a legit HKS or Trust item it would be about sub $500 and fit perfectly and mate up but if its a knock off $80 item what can you expect?

std turbo $100 - oem gasket kit from nissan $110

just turn the key to ON, no need to start it it should read 0.5v with the key at ON again agree with ash, voltage at diag vs running and working are two different things

yeah of course it would be possible im just saying usually when guys say coilpacks are dead ,the common issue is it misfires heaps of boost

when my coils were toast car ran fine, drive ok, idle was spot on under boost detonation city, misfire its ass off that was with around 170k odd on the clock

i cant believe you put up with it for a year haha

technically yes

forget that turbo, its an ebay junker special dont even bother find out how much you want to spend and speak to some car workshops they will give you some ideas youve listed about a 10k build easy

take a photo of it

as close to the compressor outlet as possible is the preferred method this minimisses losses across the core and pipework etc if its laggy it could be a million things has it always been laggy, whats changed recently has it had a service? what tune? what mods? blah blah etc

if you want some more zing and dont want a big capital outlay and you are prepared with the ceramic risk (the same risk you have now with standard BNR32 turbochargers) then the BNR34 turbochargers would be a good stepping stone. the front compressor wheel and cover are larger 0.42 a/r vs 0.53 a/r so its likely to give some more power for puff and its likely the components would be better given sub 1989/1990 vs 1999/2000 so for $500 its not bad on a stock motor, on a built motor, its the same risk/timebomb

yeah exactly are you sure you would want to spend sub $5k and then only to put stocker ceramic wheelie's on again? if they fail it puts the motor at risk

same unit, same label, same plug the exception is R33 GTST Series 2 is different plug and label, same AFM

The KKR's have been done to death, stop wasting our fricken time seriously forget ebay forget boost find out how much you want to spend find out how much power you want then speak to a performance shop or do some reading

agree dont be tight arse, dodgy/botched/skimp = rebuild of motor im on my 2nd timing belt, 216,000km

welcome to 2007