paulr33

i think youll find the stock ecu a limit once you add any reasonable level of power everything aftere that is going to be comprimise for the tuner and what the ECU can phsyically support ie with piggybacks and add-ons like the SITC and SAFC and extra injector controllers etc its all going to be a comprimise there would come a point where whatever solution you had would cap at a given injector size etc tuning a powerfc or other stand alone ecu's is exactly mega complex vs the stock ecu (remapping it) so if you can find someone to remap a stock ecu, with some training and documentation they could learn PFC or other ecu's all the same basic fundamentals of EFI tuning apply, its just the interface is a bit different in each, and how it looks, plus add-ons they all have an AFM or MAF or MAP, a load axis, an RPM axis, variious standard sensors and correction etc

agree with the others, i dont see the point of octane boosters either a) get proper 98 fuel b) tune your car on the best fuel you can get ie 95 penis if your in a shit area etc c) if you get a bad batch of 98 PFC users can use temp ign adjust to back out a few deg, or just baby it around c is my preferred if i buy 98 and its penis fuel 98ron b is recommended instead of using 95ron and octane booster each time a is preferred for all around

if the fuel pump fails its not an issue as the engine will just stall its only an issue if the pump cant keep up at 190rwkw at 0.80bar (11.6 PSI) my stock pump was leaning out so i installed a GTR pump and retuned it to 0.85 bar which is 12.3PSI so it does pay to upgrade the fuel pump

a drinking club with a car problem

happy birthday and all the best from the sau vic crew take it easy and hope you had a good one cheers

happy birthday and all the best from the sau vic crew hope you had a good one on sat night cheers

it would be reasonable to expect some levels of variance in fuel octane this would be regardless of what you buy, where you buy it from, and the brand etc 98 fuel is as you would expect, 98 fuel, sure there will be an occasional shit batch here and there but i think some people really "lock" into a specific brand of 98, its just fuel ? a knock of 6 to 8 is nothing if your car is tuned properly it should knock consistently if you follow the oldschool "advance timing till it pings, then back off 2 deg" so any variance in fuel, air temp etc is nothing to worry about

if you fit the FMIC and change nothing (i did this on my car at some point) then difference is only noticable and thats the throttle to power response time. the time from when you touch the pedal to the time the engine makes power or "responds". i would put it down to an extra maybe 200ms in response time? its noticable, but hardly anything. and like i said, once you do the other stuff, its negated. theres no late turbo response - just throttle open variance delay (if you can call it that?)

agree FMIC is a must have, i wouldnt even bother trying to get power with the stock SMIC sure it will make power and work, but youll get heatsoaked in the ass on repeated power runs on the street if you fit a FMIC and tune the car along with boost and exhaust changes you wont loose any reponse as part of the complete change, it wont be noticable, the negilible throttle variance is negated once you tune the IGN maps

i think from memory only the GTST had a processor change, not sure if GTR did as well even with the processor change, its the same functionality and operationalability the only 'known' variance between the CPU models is that older older first gen units were slow when using 3rd party tools such as datalogit, as it must update cell by cell whereas the new PFC units supported the faster data protocol spec its pretty rare to find a 'slow' data xfer PFC with datalogit

this is covered in the PFC FAQ in detail, there are "no known differences" between the builds gen 1 is RB26XX-XXXXX and gen 2 is GTR33L-XXXXX or GTR33D-XXXXX and so on... 1st gen was sold as seperate hand controller and PFC 2nd gen was sold as a bundle with the same price so you have 2nd generation the PFC FAQ (in my sig) also covers how to unerstand the serial # and build dates etc

a well setup GTST even with the PFC and stock turbo is amazing once it is tuned correctly and setup the car is completely different to drive you should be able to hit 200rwkw with stock turbo and PFC but i would seriously change to a FMIC, the SMIC will just heatsoak itself when you are going hard at it repeatedly

it will be the pressure signal for the actuator. on the turbo there will be a gold coloured bubble with a nipple on it that vac line needs to run to that nipple (and through any boost controller you may have) to make sure the actuator opens when pressure on that vac line reaches a certain level, (ie your target boost level) the spring in the gold blubble moves, which moves the actuator rod, which opens the wastegate flap on the turbocharger to maintain stable boost if you block this line or dont connect it, or get it wrong, or forget, you have unlimited boost and youll kill the engine / turbo

white ER34 at keilor downs plaza every day GTR kit or some part there-of, and BNR34 MFD shell on the dash but with some other display? (looks neat)

haha no problems

its based on the # of posts, the more you post, the higher the rank goes up dont stress

speak to "the mafia" he runs water meth injection on his RB25 in cairns with gt3X and has had great results and experience from it he did some howto' / results threads, so search in forced induction by his username and you should his details, posts etc

i dont get the point i spose? if your car is stolen, or blown up, or mangled, or cut in half etc, its gone, then its gone - and you can't get it back as long as you have full comp insurance and its not some mega rare spec exoctic with unreplaceble stuff in it, i dont see the point? of course you would want to make sure you have reasonable insurance and agreed value etc

ive got a BATMBL split dump on my GTST, never had any issues

ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK whats the value of AF-1 is the engine check light on?

um be careful quoting prices here, this isn't trader / for sale? are there any issues with cooking the bearings at engine power off vs ball bearing?

fyi when i do my 0 to 100km/h tests in my GTST i can top out past 100km/h and stay in 2nd gear

fair boost ramp

how is sleeve bearing different to ball bearing most guys here just assume ball bearing as thats what stock OEM is

why does it need a braided oil line? whats wrong with the factory one?