paulr33

find out why the turbocharger failed first

sell it and buy BCNR33 PFC its not worth the hassle and effort even if you can make it work

get a 2nd opinion or try what i said please the guy who is telling you what is wrong is a business selling an exact product that would you need if yours failed

will be there

a few wales in the bay at lorne silver GTR R35 and red ER34 up great ocean rd

not to mention the turbine housing is setup to suit 4 cylinder split pulse setup ie on an inline6 non split pulse it might run like ass - who knows point is - as 1400r said - why bother? far too often in the last 1-2 years we are seeing each week, some random guy buys or trys to buy a random turbocharger or random car parts from another model and hopes they will fit or its easy to fit there are so many aftermarket parts for the skyline, why on earth, would you bother picking a part to suit another car to try and make it fit - so not worth it, it never is

at a guess your hitting some sort of fuel cut keep turning the boost down by 0.10kgcm2 at a time (or bar) and repeat until you get your power back its probably tripping out a fuel cut somewhere in the rb20 ecu, i cant remember what its mapping is like with a different turbo, its probably beneficial to get a complete remap or stand alone it should work with an SAFC, but its a juggle exercise and whilst it might be spot on, on the dyno and run flat out once you plonk it on the road, the load axis could be slighly different which means it could use a different mapping axis and correction etc

i dont have a fan havent had one since the FMIC went on no issues with overheating etc the radiator was replaced with a better core though (original was leaking) my temps are normally too low, under 80 is common 80deg is ideal water temp, with default settings, the PFC (and stock ecu) will retard timing and richen up until it hits 80deg its a minor correct, but its still a correction. i could never get my car to 80deg so i changed the water temp to be 0 0 and 50deg so from 50deg onwards theres no correct. its covered in the PFC FAQ in my sig

wastegate flutter whats next?

compressor out of efficiency? the more pressure you cram in, the more heated the air is

....

yeah if your runnig stock boost then the standard intercooler is probably fine a stock guage isnt really required for stock boost as well the stnadard cluster has a standard boost guage for you

if its stock boost it would be fine next time you go for a trash run stop the car get out feel the intercooler one side should be hot hot hot one side should be cold cold cold if its efficient it will be like that if its inefficient, ie heatsoaked, both will be hot hot hot

if its stock boost, then keep the standard intercooler the issue isn't ambient temperature but how the car is driven and loaded up if you go for a trash run and load it up flat out the standard core will become heatsoaked that is, its full of heat and any air coming through it, won't experience a good temperature drop (or worse than before) and because its a smaller core, in the side of the car it will take considerably longer for the heat to be extracted so as you continue to load the ass out of it, the intake charge will be mega hot and the intercooler effieicny will be very poor if you did this with a larger front mounted core the core would remain cold on the outlet side at all times as the core is larger and its able to extract the heat easier and there is way more surface area and its directly in front

from my understanding its the Z32/VG30 wire inside a 65mm shell

its probably easier to find a pair of Z32s have you thought of this? but would mean a change in pipework ducting to suit the 80mm shell if you have a PFC you can even use a pair of RB20/RB25 AFMs

find out what troy (roy) uses on his rb20 and run the same setup on your rb25det from memory its a td06 from a GTR twin kit run in single form on a proper manifold, external gate its here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...o-t103095.html# td06 20g-8cm2 rear housing with a proper setup

there's no "i have an amto bov" setting or tick box it would just be a comprimise in the maps and idle settings etc

nengun.com importmonster.com.au rhdjapan.com

if you cant be bothered searching we cant be bothered helping you return the bov to full stock plumb back and it will fix the stall

sign here initial here kiss me here http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/suction-pipe or http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/suction-kit the first kit is to suit 80mm AFM's such as RB20,RB25,Z32 only it wont suit BNR32,BCNR33,BNR34 or Nismo AFM's which are 65mm the second one is optional in 80mm or 65mm

these guys usually have them its an official greddy part twin sucktion kit to suit T88 from memory http://www.jappartsspecialist.com/ also add a bend in the ducting to break the reversion in front of the AFM signal you may find wonky idle, chuffing and other grumpiness without a bend before the AFM wire the factory pipework has the accordian style bends for this reason

is the HKS atmo or plumb back? if its ATMO the tuner might have tuned to compensate for the ATMO stalling stupid behaviour so if you find it being grumpy on gear change or return to idle and it was an AMTO bov then it might need a touch up on the map and a re-check of the fuel cut recovery etc not major, just a few screens to check, should take 10 minutes tops? thats only if its ATMO and the tuner had to compensate for it being stupid

there is a special tool, 02 sensor removal tool its bascially an open ended socket so you can slide it over the sensor and it doesnt clash with the plug i think its about $30 from repco, without it = dont bother

covered in the PFC FAQ in my signature