paulr33

you can't recalibrate the sensor, your options are 1) change to another airflow meter, R33 GTST, Z32, Nismo AFM etc 2) remove the GTR afm sensor and place it in a larger shell, so a 80mm shell, instead of a 65mm shell - this would still require lots of re-tuning work, as the sensor wouldn't be in the same linear fashion and it wouldnt know its a larger MAF shell 3) tune around the maxing afm. once the afm maxes out, it cant show anymore air increase, this is the same as a map sensor when it hits target boost there is no harm done, just a comprimise in the tuning and you run out of load points 1 is prefered, cheaper, easier and more effective 2 is backyard and not recommended, lots of tuning rework and manual fiddling 3 is ok but no tuner would recommend it just sell your GTR afm's and go for R33 GTST (cheaper than nismo's / Z32s) and will support tons of power they are larger in size and can be found for fairly cheap price

on a side note i park my 33 in a street near a local western suburbs train station head unit attached, hand controller, turbo timer, vafc and rsm, dvd player all visible... zero issues

good luck shan, but theres no way id park my skyline there

thanks for your wise words i have added them to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...tml&hl=ebay

go see a mechanic something is wrong suggestions mangled timing mangled crank sensor mangled tune mangled cas bolts and so on. it shouldnt known mega aggressively at 3k unless something is seriously wrong check the basics, check timing, check cam belts, check cas, and then go see a mechanic

sell your car, buy a BCNR33 it will be cheaper, easier, youll have a better car

he left your car running unlimited boost?

some guy at keilor downs plaza recognised my sau jacket and BNR34 up copernicus way in keilor downs, plates RB26N1

its the plugs, regap to 0.8 and it will be fine

oh as well here are all the valid menu items http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...werfc-faq.htm#4 and here is their controller menu logic the image is a little blury i know but i can sequence them up too http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#4a

please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please READ THIS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...Pe-t221021.html

from my understand the R34 has a boost pressure sensor to check for excessive pressure that is, so the ecu knows if you try and run more boost. it uses this sensor to check, and runs its r&r protection when it see's a certain level of pressure unsure if it also runs its normal r&r via airflow meter, but it certainly does via map sensor pressure so your Fuel cut device would need to intercept this one there are 2, as the others have said, one is for the stock guage (it would have wires running to the dash area) and one would be for the ECU

all i need is someone to script the buttons linking between the different images thats all there is too really ? adam has already sent me something and it looks good so far its just simple image click this button, show that image and so on

yeah im still happy to do it let us know when

please check your method of boost control please check boost pressure in at least two spots past the compressor outlet compressor surge, if that is what you are seeing, occurs when the pressure past the compressor outlet (or wheel) exceeds what the compressor (and its map) can actually supply. that is, if the compressor and its wheel design and its best effiency dictate that at most it can supply around 15psi of compression (lets say) but on your car (lets say) its spiking and running well past 20psi the end result is the pressure past the compressor exceeds what it can supply, so the compressor wheel surges this is usually referenced as compressor surge, where boost exceeds far beyond what the turbocharger can actually supply the common causes of this - poor turbocharger setup - mismatched turbocharger components - mangled hiflow spec turbochargers - poor / mangled boost control - mangled bov setup can cause it check the common basics, check pressure everywhere when it surges check your cooler piping and other simple stuff and lastly if all else fails get the turbocharger checked also double check it is actually compressor surge why do you think its compressor surge? just because something goes wrong when its on boost? you mentioned you had compressor surge before you changed the turbo? was the same thing (what you call compressor surge) occuring on the stock turbo? its unlikely and almost unheard of see compressor surge on the stock turbo as its balanced, setup correctly and wont surge within reasonable means

http://www.streetperformance.com/part/apex...4-702-n740.html its referred to as the TCW77LS-P20 its a turbo? if theres no info on it, chances are its rare and, well, not many have used it could be a "guess work" type turbocharger. it would be much easier to view the turbo upgrade threads and pick your power/response you want, then select the dyno graph you like and go from there

this is exactly what i was eluding too before back at the start of the thread sure the core might fit and it might feel cool and on a dyno it seems ok but load the ass out of it on the street repeatedly and youll probably find the core is useless. the end result is it just gets heatsoaked after a bit of a trash run and it then performs at a very low effiency level (ie bugger all heat drop). for me, when i give me car a good trash run, its usually on the street, up some back streets etc or it might be through some "streets". the main factor here is lots of load, constantly load, lots of boost and repeated runs through and through. the outlet temp on the compressor side would be through the roof during these conditions if that airtemp continues into the throttle body your performance will suck ass and lastly, the cost of FMIC kits these days is cheap as chips if the FMIC kit fitted was $1500 i would say stick with a SMIC change but its such cheap, why would you bother? theres a big debacle around fitting a FMIC and loosing heaps of throttle response and gains LOTS and LOTS of lag. this is mostly hearsay and mythbusters ahoy type stuff BUT its impossible to retain the same identical response and same amount of lag when you fit a larger core and all the extra pipework its simply impossible. so most users when they fit a FMIC kit they up the boost change their exhaust, do a tune, or do other changes at the same time and these negate the loss that you "miss" from the larger core and pipework on my GTST i fitted a FMIC kit and made no changes i noticed a touch of loss in throttle response (the time when you open the throttle to the time engine makes power) and thats simlply physics. once you do a tune, up the boost, exhaust etc this tiny loss is completely negated and doesnt raise an issue

yeah this is exaclty what the auto does on max boost full load on the stock guage it reads below the middle line noticbly below the manual gtst goes above the middle line its a fair difference you would find it better to do basic stage 1 mods though... exhaust intercooler boost to 12psi interceptor device (safc, piggyback, remap) the car will run loops around the factory setup

sounds like there would be lots to gain if you replaced the stock ecu with a stand alone tunable ecu are there any plug in stand alone units from hks, motec, autronic etc? i know mines did one, but it sounds like a mines locked, mines tune workshop access only ecu

the idea of the fuel cut is to stop the engine running, not lean it out leaning out shouldn't occur

when fuel cut occurs, no fuel goes into the cylinders, combustion isn't possible without fuel no fuel, means no bang if you accidently hit rows 16/17 or higher and via your method the engine is on full load and all the timing gets taken out of it it would probably blow the exhaust wheel to pieces, doesnt sound safe under full load

the auto acutator has a different spring, thus it runs less boost i have seen this with my own eyes in an auto R33 GTST i suspect they just made it run less boost to make it not as quick and attractive and perhaps to make it more nimble when driving it? maybe those who wanted auto cars in japland didnt want fast ones? i mean were only talking 2 psi, but its a bit of difference i guess and if you would like to double check, in case you think im wrong (haha?) then check the R33 nissan service manual r33_engine_manual.pdf page 173 of 491 or EN-153 r33 auto boost = 270mmhg = 5.22 PSI r33 manual boost = 385mmhg = 7.44 PSI

mechanically it sounds like the car could be quicker off the line but it sounds like the ECU is holding it back somewhere / somehow

1. For Nismo you select VG30 as they are Z32 AFM sensor in a GTR 65mm shell 2. Shouldn't be, check RB25 AFM wiring and VG30 AFM wiring, from memory its the same 3. No you don't, at least not for basic idle control and standard plodding around (ie; dont load it up on boost until you get a complete retune) 4. check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK to make sure both AFMS show a reasonable value at idle and its consistent

GTR maf is 65mm GTST maf is 80mm they flow more and are larger in size remember a GTST has 1 x 80mm afm and GTR has 2 x 65mm so when you fit a PAIR of GTST afm's to a GTR, its a fair upgrade