paulr33

i really dont mind what its written in, as long as it looks ok, is lightweight and any retard can view and play in it whatever you guys want to code it in, is fine with me, silverlight sounds a bit homo spec if you need to download another client etc

as said above, 7 doesn't sound too high, but its a basic microphone in the engine so it will pick up other noises ive seen a knock level of 200 on my hand controller before, obviously thats bad of course. 60 will turn on the engine check light, so apexi decided that a knock of 60 or higher is bad enough to throw the engine check light on its also possible there isnt enough knock, ie knocking is too low, which means the engine isn't tuned hard enough

they are just injectors? what are you so worried about ?

dont mean to sound like a retard but is the HKS vcam kit essentially the same thing as the RB25 VCT? variable cam timing? sure the RB25 setup you can't touch / tune etc, but the same logics, that is, a variable cam timing system - cam timing that changes, with load etc

i though these were plug and play'able ECUs? if not - get whoever makes vipec to work with boomslang.us to make an vipec 88 plug to BNR34 loom kit

hi gang looking for someone who is a flash coder to make for the club an apexi powerfc hand controller emulator in flash i have all the menu shots taken from the manual and i can show you how they go in what sequence and what each button does etc but im not familiar with flash and would like it is something nice and easy like flash it doesnt have to do anything, just show specific images based on button click events i can supply all the graphics, logic, menu names, text etc just need someone to link it all together in a nice flash object for a webpage your name will be credit'ed in the powerfc faq i would like to make this to educate people who don't know how to use the hand controller or for people who would like a hands on demo of what each thing does this would help tuners, new users, experienced users and those who may be interested in the PFC etc please let me know if you are interested paulr33 at hotmail.com

as Gt said, they would be generic injectors from jecs or denso or some other OEM manufacturer nismo wont make them, apexi wont make them, and so on they just market them as their own, brand it and bump the price up

use normal GTST pod filter kits, as they are, like you said, the same diameter AFM so an 80mm pod filter kit to suit a normal gtst will fit, the same AFM's on your BCNR33 make sense? its the same

yeah if your using private trackers, then you need good upload ratio from memory a mate mentioned some of the private trackers actually null route australian based IP ranges that count uploads

it would be unlikely you can make 7psi boost sitting there i'd suggest you have some sort of leak, vacuum issue or your reading the guage wrong where are you seeing 7psi boost at "stop" on the standard guage? please tell us what you see

and yeah as RPM9k said, what inputs does the Vcam system need assumption would be TPS, RPM and AFM - and these would be 5v sensors

the powerfc will run the same as the stock ecu, so as a process of elimination you could try stock ecu perhaps? even just for a quick baby run on the dyno? not full load etc - this would give you to hints if the PFC is at fault or the vcam system etc

if your on a plan where they count uploads just change your max upload speed bigpond cable count uploads, i just changed my max up speed to 2kb/sec and its fine you hardly upload any data in a month

its probably their new technology take a photo of your car if its a non permitted zone -> fine (A) if its parked too long -> fine if its not parked too long, wait, goto (A) fairly simple stuff really

the tapping and brbbrbrbrbr is the engine detonating / misfiring stop loading the engine up, stop loading it up on boost and find out the cause likely causes - boost too high - crap fuel - broken vac lines etc - mangled boost controller - poor boost control - unlimited boost - issues with fuel delivery - too lean, pump dying, rail shagged, injectors shagged when did it start? what did you last change? what ecu? what boost control? what other mods?

ill be there - any interest in demo'ing the logitech harmony series remotes? i tihnk most people know what they are and what they do? happy to do a presentation if theres enough interest

anything but the catcus....

put it back how it was and get it tuned properly they might have used datalogit and edit'd the AFM ramp directly (unlikeky, but possible) so even though its selected a BCNR33 it could have a completely different ramp. either way, changing it to something different and trashing it, is not a good idea, given it would be using a standard AFM curve to suit HR32/ECR33 (assumption, they might have edit'd that one too)

not sure what bigpond you've been using.....

yeah not sure what you mean, you could try contact cleaner to clean the sensor if its covered with gunk but if the actual sensor is shagged, then its dead, no point try to fix it 2nd hand GTR afm's shouldnt be that much, new ones on the other hand...

check the bearing type and make sure you change the oil feed to suit

your peak torque is probably made around the 3800 to 5000 range but peak power is probably after 5000rpm so the engine would likely use more fuel, need more spark etc past 5000rpm so i wouldnt put it down to something like lack of fuel (unless not tuned correctly) or break down of spark. id put it down to something mechanical. id be checking what the guys have said, check the fuel rail, pressure under load, check the simple stuff

yeah ive got a dell latitude 600 i think, pentium III, 128mb of ram i think, runs win98 works a charm for all the tuning software etc. see if you can find something called a toughbook the telstra field techs use these for on-site installations and they are sold new with true serial ports, as the guys need serial ports for all the oldschool NTUs, and media converter boxes etc not sure who makes it

if you are still stuck trying to get it working see if you can disable all the on board com ports and remove them from windows (right click, un-install) make sure they are all gone and disabled (if possible, some bios's will let you) and then install and use the USB dongle one - make sure its un-installed first so you should have only 1 COM port, which is the USB and see if that works like the others have said though, USB emulators are hit and miss depends on the driver, the program and the adapter best bet like disco said and what i do as well, buy an old dell laptop off ebay with a true serial port perfect for everything you need for car tuning

not only shitty turbos, but fakes of a shitty turbo???? thats like puking on a pile of dogshit - angry nintendo nerd