paulr33

as per nissan service manual, page EN-153 the standard R33 GTST Manual actuator is rated at 385mmhg which is 7.44 PSI of boost so the lowest possible boost you can run, is 7.44 PSI, contrary to everyone believing R33 GTST dual stage boost is 5/7, its actually 7/9PSI so this explains why, if you do the dual stage hack (howto section by me) and free up intake/exhaust you get 10psi ballpark youll also be sure to note R33 GTST Auto runs less boost, its actuator is rated at 270mmhg or 5.22PSI boost BNR32 actuator is 0.75kgcm2 which is 10.66 PSI boost R32 GTST actuator is 0.85kgcm2 which is 12.08 PSI boost

again check the tune (he said he has a PFC?) ive never seen or heard of flat spots on a programmable ECU

standard

before you start the run, check MONITOR, 2 CHANNEL, AIRTEMP, WATERTEMP check the water temp and air temp when you get normal AFR then turn car off and check do your dyno run an hour later before you start the run, check MONITOR, 2 CHANNEL, AIRTEMP, WATERTEMP compare, if they are different by a fair bit, the PFC will add in correction, ie: it might be richening up or leaning out, based around temps you are seeing after 1 hour of not running

sorry it shouldn't vary, not sure why it would, but 12.8 is ok

no it does not, it means get your tune checked the PFC is completely different to the stock ECU

12.8 is fine

never heard or seen of a steel rear wheel on ER34 turbocharger please double check and confirm and even if it is steel rear wheel, the compressor will stilll run out of effiency and past its effiencny island which in turn just dials heat into the intake charge, so steel or no steel, doesnt really help a lot, just means it wont fail from excessive shaft speed / heat typically 12psi is the island / max spot of the compressor map - so any more, is more heat for little to no gain

2400rpm and full by maybe 3100rpm? its like 7psi stock, bugger all

undo the intake piping and look at the compressor cover if its standard you will see GARRETT or NISSAN 0.42 A/R but think of it this way, if you were selling a car, and it had different turbochargers, why would you not including it in the description to crank up the price more? i mean, no one in their right mind would sell a skyline with upgraded turbochargers and not list them to justify the 5k extra cost

known differences - dash cluster - ecu - diff gears - turbocharger actuator the auto runs less boost (lower rated spring) so make sure you fit a boost controller (or change the actuator) from memory the auto runs about 4psi and the manual runs 7psi so definetly a difference worth fixing

what ecu / piggyback are u using? or remapped ecu? the stock ecu wont like 12psi so you must be using something else check the basics, check timing (with a timing light) check all fluids, look for any obvious leaks etc if stock ecu, try resetting it

yeah unplug the 02 sensor for a few days, it wont do any harm, just economy wont be that great ive never seen a narrowband go to 3v, i'd say something is really wrong 02H is 02 heater control, when the car starts, the 02 sensor must be hot (temperature wise) so it has to heat itself up before it can tell the ECU anything useful so its normal for 02H to be on and remain on for some time the 02 sensor is a $100 part so its worth changing - unplug first to confirm

use the cranking adjustment screen to mark it start easier when water temp is up part of it might be in the FAQ or check out the documentation i can look into if you like, but will take some time

post here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De...ad-t271488.html

good event guys, organising the food van was a great idea, saves a lot of time for the committee and offers some different food some of the battles looked fantastic, and very challenging. the driving skills of some of the guys has improved ten fold all round one that came to mind was the p plater in the 33 GTS he was amazing for a p plater and handled very well

go see an alarm installer and get it sorted out all at once the alarm & turbo timer are quite crucial to the ignition system ie ife the are wrong etc, they are useless, ie no alarm etc

when did the problem start? has it always been like that? try unplugging the 02 sensor (its on the exhaust dump pipe) - ive never seen a narrow band 02 sensor go past 1v, thats because, they dont so your sensor is completely shagged or you have wiring fault im surprised the engine check light isnt coming on 02-1 should be in the range 0.00v to 1.00v as its only a narrow sensor - 3v is off the planet! unplug 02 sensor and see if that works if not - check basics and maybe perform self idle adjustment (youll loose the tune, so get someone datalogit to copy it first)

details ent

use the correction for water temp to richen the AFR's when the engine is cold (under 50 deg) and don't load the shit out of it when its cold (why would you?) keep boost to a minimum when water temp is under 50deg (fairly obvious)

mine was maxing at 190rwkw its not worth the risk, lean AFRS is what kill an engine

it works fine if you have the boost control kit enabled (its on by default) and its not connected, the engine check light stays on all the time, forever until you turn it off so you would notice this, as the engine check light would be on, forever

huh? that's wierd, if boost increased when you made an exhaust change, wouldnt this indicate more of a restriction? that is, the backpressure can't escape quick enough, which drives the exhaust wheel faster, which drives the compressor wheel faster, which increases boost in the intake side without any change

so you got it tuned on 100 and now your using 98? no wonder its knocking, you need to get it retuned on 98, the timing will be heaps different until you get it re-tuned on 98 baby it around, backdial the CAS or use the powerfc temp ign adjust (covered in the PFC FAQ in my signature) the PFC temp ign adjust is the quickest way to temporary reduce timing across the whole map

seat taken see you up there dan if you want you can meet at my place or there may be another convoy thread in the vic section upto you - if you want to meet at my place, email me paulr33 at hotmail .com keilor downs, 7am