paulr33

sorry maybe i worded it a bit wrong we've seen users who remove the factory accordian style pipework (which goes in front of the AFM) to the airfilters (pods etc or airbox) cause issues the accordian pipework helps break the air up somehow when its ducted to the AFM and it gives a clean signal if you remove the accordian vanes - that is, say you install your own custom 3" pipework to the AFMs (a lot of guys do) and its nice and smooth, curved and no accordian then the signal the AFM gets reversion, so i think (again, can only speculate what the AFM does) is, it reverberates the signal, and it gives a whacko reading to the ECU tihs in turn, makes the car run like ass - as the AFMs are saying "hey theres TONS of air coming through" when in reality, its normal levels this might not be related to the 1st guys post, but its another cause of "reversion" = running like ass / stalling we have seen when messing around with the factory intake / turbocharger setup

as comparison my gtst with 190rwkw and typical mods, 4.88 - 0 to 100km/h with apexi RSM and g sensor correction

baby it around or risk rebuild

the car will stall %100 if you have atmo setup, no bov's i dont think would make it stall, but would certainly piss it off and make it grumpy idle before you go moving the afms - check, are you using the accordian style pipework for the AFMs or have you replaced it? the accordian style pipework usually avoids the reversion issues, so check you have the accordian pipes as inlet ducts if you have nice straight, shiny, copper ducting etc then this wont help. a quick test is to try the AFM's open mouted, that is, no ducting in front of them this will prove if your pipework is the culprit or not (assuming you have changed it)

if its just to fix something i have datalogit it will work fine, you cant borrow it, but im happy to change something for you im in keilor downs

ask however is going to tune it what they would prefer to tune and setup no good picking HKS FCON etc if you cant find anyone that will tune it or tune it a reasonable cost

as long as you have the in and out set correctly and you havent changed any of the correction then essential the device, does nothing so yes its fine

sounds right, so the best solution, is you keep the stock ecu and piggyback another ECU on top, or remap the stocker piggybacking another ECU on top is expensive, and a complex exercise ($$$$) in custom work remap is by far easier, quicker and cheaper

nope - not that i know of, i dont see how it would only the auto box knows when its going to change gears

The ER34 PowerFC is the same as the stock ecu, it just expects the normal sensors to work and be present if there are sensors not working or out of range etc the engine check light will remain on you can see what sensors are toast by looking at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller any sensor that is toast will be highlighted in a black background

yeah thats what i meant sorry, the extra plug on the TPS body do you know why this isnt present on the S2 ?

the R32 actuator is rated at 12psi so the minimum you can run, is, 12psi it should be fine and is a good upgrade no need for a boost controller or bleed valve etc just actuator and away you go

190rwkw <-> 200rwkw ish with the SAFC this assumes RB25DET manual

the best recommendation, by far for automatic skyline users is to get a remapped ECU, which retains the standard automatic gearbox logic be careful with a shift kit, whilst good, and it makes it change quicker it makes it harsher on the autobox. see if you can find a workshop who has done some work on auto skylines (or even vl turbos) they would know LOTS about auto gearboxes, and might even know of some common tricks between the skyline / vl boxes

the ECU doesn't exactly speak to the auto ECU but it has logic programming into the mapping so that it knows when the auto box will change gears this allows the mapping to have retarded ignition timing during gear change. otherwise without that logic (the auto / gear change logic) the ecu keeps the ignition timing nailed you can replicate this by using a manual GTST ecu, in an auto skyline. the ecu just runs along ignition timing normal, and the auto box changes gears. the end result is the there is no ignition retard on gearchange. the main difference, is the manual ECU, expects the user will engage the clutch (which means no load on the box) whilst changing gears this means the load axis drops to 0 and ther3e is no engine load to hurt the box the apexi powerfc along with most other (in fact all) aftermarket ecus for the skyline are they are manual ECU's only, that is, they have no knowledge, or care for an automatic gearbox so in their code and mappings, they dont' cater or work around the auto box so the timing wont change during gear change. this is the same for any aftermarket ecu you can think of there is one difference (always is) an auto powerfc does exist! - but its for toyota only this is because the auto logic for the toyota is done by a seperate box, whereas nissan is inside the main ECU so the auto powerfc is able to control the auto box normally and map the gear change stuff etc there is a lot of logic to auto box control, if you check the manual for the JXZ100 PFC youll see the auto screens, there are HEAPS literally heaps of settings and pages for auto box control, ie (its pretty complicated) so - if you change the ECU in an auto skyline, as juliette eluded too, it wont back off timing during gear change the apexi documentation (and most aftermarket ecu docuemtnation) state for manual use only for that exact reason - no logic for automatic boxes mainly because - its lots of code, lots of work, lots of logic, and lots of messing around for a small % of the market - ie; why bother will the effort for a small amount of customers Vl turbos - are different, they have a mechnical auto box, so they dont need timing back offs, they do something different (not sure what, not sure why, go read calaisturbo to find out) but the jatco boxes work differently, and can work around the manual only ECU issue (from memory)

fair enough, seems they are very different (which is good) was going to say, no way a 33 gtst clutch would handle that

id recommend going to see a skyline mechanic and ask them there would dozens of options for you depending on how long you can wait and price EAS in airport west RE customs in springvale chasers out near foostcray somewhere dr drift in brooklyn created in thomastown any of those are reputable in vic, and could give you price and options pretty quickly they might even know whats wrong (ie: something simple?)

whilst to date we haven't seen someone smash an auto box in a skyline, im sure they aren't rock solid units the issue when you upgrade everything is the autobox takes more torque and typically harsher changes if you upgrade the ECU to an aftermarket ECU it assumes the car is manual, so it wont "talk" to the auto box to say hey im about change gears so it may result in flaring on gearchange and delays / harsh gear changes. this in turn puts lots of stress on the auto box this is amplified when you put a shift kit on the auto box as well, so be careful by all means do it, just find out how much its going to cost if you shag the auto box i mean its like all of us, no one expects to replace their gearbox etc (i dont) but we're always wary of the auto boxes

it physically looks different (there is an extra plug on the series 1 TPS) but i dont know of any difference in the ECU logic etc? ie the voltage range is the same, it works the same, it functions the same, but the phyiscal appearance is difference find a photo of a s1 throttle body and s2, youll note theres an extra plug

no one is focring you to change, but its certainly a good idea many have fitted the blitz return pipe style cooler kit without hacking etc as r31nismoid has posted, do a search on the blitz kit from memory dezz in victoria fitted one, he might be able to offer advice if you can't find any info

whats more concerning is why do you have an ap engineering powerfc ? there is no ap engineering powerfc to suit ECR33 GTST Skyline i suspect youve brought an RB20DET PowerFC?

do you have dyno print out showing NM torque ? i just cant see the stock clutch putting up with that power level during boost build (where it ramps) it would shit it pants (most do)

something doesnt add up your making 241rwkw by 14psi on the standard clutch?????????????????????????? either something is wrong or you dont have a standard clutch my stock clutch couldnt handle 185rwkw and died i dont know of anyone who has gone over 200rwkw with stock clutch not saying its impossible, but i am VERY surprised to hear you say stock clutch still ?????

mythbusters ahoy as the guys have identified already, the main notable difference between series 1 and series 2 is the coil setup this however, means nothing to the ECU, as the changes (between s1 and s2) are done on the engine loom side, so its transparent to the ECU all of the sensors, dials, meters, voltage ranges etc are the same, and operate the same, there is no difference there are other notable differences such as 4wire AFM vs 3wire but again, this is engine loom side difference, so its transparent to the ECU an issue does however occur, when say on a series 2 skyline, you plug in a series 1 ECU and the MER (or MEC?) chip is different from memory this is the main hitachi chip on the board. there are a few variants for S1 and for S2 if you use the wrong one, the car basically runs like a bucket of crap, sluggish, slow and doesnt go hard there are no sensor errors, no warning lights, no backfiring etc when this happens, it just runs sluggish why it happens, i dont know, its something to do with the MER (or MEC?) chip being the wrong model - ask toshi, he knows what it is, and why it goes sluggish there would be minor minor differences in the map data between s1 and s2 but these differences would be neglibable ie, you wont loose power or make magical rwkw by using a S2 ECU on a S1 R33, or vice versa much is the same if using an Auto ECU on a manual car etc or vice versa it will work and run ok, but you may find the Auto ECU expects "auto" gearbox signal, so it might throw on the engine check light or it might refuse to start (its waiting for the auto box to say im in park) or you might find VCT wont engage (as VCT wont engage until the car is in gear, must NOT be nuertral) so in summary interchanging is OK - but check how the car drives interchanging auto to manual is OK - but not recommended - why would you bother? its just a headache in all cases its by far easier to source the correct ECU for your car, in all cases the stock ecu is worth $10 aftermarket ECU's copy the stock ecu (they must, to work corretly) so a plug and play ECU will be the same ie; its no difference s1 or s2 and it works the same

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