paulr33

ok with me let me see if anyone else wants to come along any takes for free seat ?

hi im thinking of heading up to deca tomorrow morning for the day i have a free spot in my car as gf is on night shift anyone interested im leaving keilor downs around 7am ish

did they adjust the CAS or adjust the ignition timing on the IGN MAP on the hand controller? adjusting the CAS is braindead and the lazy way, and it affects the whole tune but if they did it on the IGN map its ok. what fuel are you using? cars usually knock different on the dyno vs on the street so its normal to see some knocking on the street after a full tune

it should be around $120

what the hell is teal? blue dude, blue the old stock solenoid has two vacuum hoses, both should go nowhere, check and confirm this its too hard to tell from the pic

its covered in the nissan r33 service manual, you should download it and check for yourself, well worth a read you need to get a pnuematic pressure gun thingy and attach it to the actuator, and keep building pressure slowly until the actuator rod moves it should move around 0.70kgcm2 from memory (its in the service manual, the exact number) if the rod doesnt move, its failed or broken / damaged etc if the rod moves freely then your boost controller is mangled, damaged, setup wrong, adjusted incorrectly, or faulty replace or remove and try again its unlikely the actuator has failed, as its such as simple and old device its likely your controller has something wrong, is setup wrong, is set too high or something else try removing it, the car should run stock boost, around 0.70kgcm2 or +5ish on the stock guage

r34 turbochargers themselves are the best, bigger front, bigger rear vspec is the same as standard, so no difference for vspec

either youve got the controller hooked up wrong and its in unlimited boost mode, ie, nothing is holding, and it just keeps climbing (actuator never opens) or the boost controller is set too high, and in the other gears or engine load some of the boost bleeds off either is bad and should be fixed when did it first occur? or has it always been like that? check all pipework for the boost controller etc check the vac lines. check the actuator actually opens when the boost flies past 12psi the stock computer will activate its self protection and you may also have the engine detonate when boost exceeds this level

no power difference between djetro or normal powerfc version - if this is what you are asking?

the 02 sensor wouldnt make the car stall like that and bring on the engine check light its likely the throttle body sensor went out of range - this would bring on the engine check light, and make the car stall any sensor that goes out of range under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK will turn on the engine check light when its on, view ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and look for any sensor with a black highlight, this is the sensor that is out of range, or broken etc look for THRO or TPS when the problem occurs if its your throttle body

the knock sensors are microphones attached to the block, so they are suseptable to picking up other mechanical noise etc its unlikely for the engine to detonate when you back off the throttle as the engine isnt on any load, thus its unlikely to detonate its probably clutch plate noise, flywheel noise etc and thats triggering the knock warning or knock increase by the way, you can't configure the knock sensors, you can only adjust the level at which the engine check light flashes so by saying "My tuner has set the threshold limit to 60 knocks on my Power FC" this means nothing and is not possible cruising at 100km/h in 5th gear its possible to knock, as long as the engine is on some load, ie throttle body is partially open etc cos then the engine is under some load, so its just an area on your IGN map that is either too advanced, or too lean etc

its not needed its for a warning light on the dash cluster to tell you the cat is overheating ie who cares

get the r33 service manual google for it or bit torrent it or check on my site paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com

its just the base idle - you can adjust it, look under the bonnet when you open it or go see a mechanic, simple thing to fix

if your dead set on 500rwkw find a skyline for sale that has this power already its heaps cheaper to buy a car that has had all the work done and a proven dyno result vs doing it yourself

id just go with the stock ecu you have, saves $ and get an SAFC and tune that, you should be able to buy an SAFC for sub $300 ish? and tune of it should be sub $250 ? its like a few load points and a quick dyno run. hardly a lengthly exercise

hello BNR32 and BCNR33 PowerFC are the same unit, same model, same code etc. The BNR32 and BCNR33 differences are airflow meter ramp and 02 sensor control. Depending on which car you plug this model PowerFC into, you need to adjust ETC, FUNCTION SELECT, 02 SENSOR REG and select the correct Airflow meter from the Airflow meter menu under SETTING, AIRFLOW the rest is the same, same logic, same loom, same plug, same wiring, same hand controller etc

if its a work car get a falcon or xr6 turbo on a novated lease

for 500rwkw, go see a tuner and ask them, your either wasting our time or its a joke or you havent thought this through well enough

what you are saying, is like using an excavator, like a big hitachi one they used to make freeways to dig a hole in your mums garden for a small pot plant sure you could, but its WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY overkill and youll end up with a crap result, and waste lots of $$$$ a T51R is a sub ~1000HP turbocharger - why on earth would you bother with it? so back to the drawing board. how much power do you want, how much do you have to spend forget T51R, forget boost, forget any other keywords

yes post the VIN and someone will check it for you theres nothing super secret to be obtained from the VIN, so posting it up, reveals nothing it doesnt need to guarded or kept secret, its ok to post it here dude

good work all & well done

see you all there tomorrow here's a sneak peek of what i will be doing a talk on...

just do the basics and try again reset the ecu check the plugs put in some new fuel check battery voltage try unplug 02 sensors if still no good, go see a mechanic

aggressive tune (heaps and heaps of ignition timing, cant stress this enough) standard turbo normal FMIC heavy duty clutch some good tyres ($300+ each) good suspension pineapple kit camber kit castor kit good cold air intake good boost controller consider 4.3 diff gears fuel pump good exhaust setup tune the vct thats probably it, no need for cams, cam gears, manifold, etc my r33 has all of the above except diff gears and it runs great has amazing response, great on fuel, excellent on the street great for twisty roads etc, one thing my r33 doesnt have is new shocks, it has the standard ones still here is mine in SAU garage http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...view&id=270 i meant its not exactly a mines setup, but its pretty quick for what it is