paulr33

02 reg is for BNR32 as BNR32 and BCNR33 use same model PFC they need to alter between the different style of 02 sensors For BNR32 02 feedback on, 02 register on BCNR33 02 feedback on, 02 register off if you have BCNR33 and 02 register is on youll get shit economy if you have BCNR32 and 02 register is off youll get shit economy make sure you are checking the correct symbol heres what they look like; the on / off tells it to speak to the 02 sensors in titania languge vs normal lambda or whatever it is if you have BNR34 02 register should be off, however im not even sure 02 register is an option in BNR34 PFC

im in melbourne, keilor downs will be easier to come over and we can sort it out

you will find they wont know anything about the greddy emanage and cant be bothered learning it cos it will take longer, more fiddly and other crap, it will just blow out the install and tune labour if they do it either goto a workshop who has done greddy emanage before or bin it a powerfc install and tune is bulletproof and many workshops can do it with their eyes closed the end result is a quick and cheaper install vs something new and something they might not have done before ie they might charge you double to tune the emanage cos they have to sit there and learn it and take their time vs off the bat, eyes closed with PFC it all comes down to selecting a setup that is locally supported its like the super whizz bang HKS FCON, awesome ECU, useless in australia, no one can touch it and any workshop who wil do it, will charge a gazillion $ cos they have to learn / start from scratch

if it needs 15deg on max load to stop pining some may be wrong ie cas is off set, base timing is whack, cam gear is whack and so on check the basics with a timing light this is a must for anyworkshop do a base dyno run check timing THEN tune and adjust away

does the raw CSV include blank rows as ,,,, or does it remove / strip them what do null values look like " " or ' ' or ,,,

get a consult cable and software heaps easier

see you there

all of the skyline GTST turbochagers are ball bearing, oil cooled, water cooled turbochargers

now that black R34 is pretty bad ass

so after 9 pages of crap and information we have come to no conclusion at all i would say if both a GTST and a GTR had the same power, same modifications but one has the GTR running gear and one has the GTST running gear that the GTR would be %5 to %10 quicker overall i would put this down to AWD, being able to launch better and twin turbo giving better linear response vs small single

no the GTS-4 or "AWD" is done by another computer, seperate to the ECU

yeah if you go from SMIC to FMIC and change nothing else, you will notice a slight increase in throttle response ie time from when you mash the pedal to time boost hits the manifold, and thats to be expected as you have to pressurize the bigger core, more pipework etc usually when you go from SMIC to FMIC you add in a boost controller, exhaust etc so most dont notice but if you told me you went from SMIC to FMIC and noticed no difference, your either lying or made other changes ie: the physics do not support - the "dude i had no loss when i fitted a FMIC"

take it back and say fix it no doubt youve paid a few hundred for the tune its not like you said to him "give me a half assed tune that pings at 7 grand" so maybe take it up with him be constructive, but i mean you paid good $ for it, so you should get a complete tune too often we see a tuner, tunes the car on the dyno the owner takes it home and it pings under certain load i say the ownus is on the workshop to either advise the owner it will ping on the street or an extra $150 for an on-road street tune to iron out the ping areas on the map

the main issue is you cant buy a "stock" turbocharger brand new youll have to rely on a garrett / hitachi equivalent etc so it wont be a prefect match and its likely it wont mate up correctly, ie dump might be different etc. when you highflow your existing unit, its the same as a new turbocharger as all the bits that wear out, are replaced and rebalanced (this is where the cost comes from) the only tthing retained is the housing and covers, and they dont wear out

what happens when you hiflow the turbo? you replace the compressor wheel, bearing pack, exhaust wheel, bore out the exhaust snout and realign and balance all the components. the result is a brand new turbocharger in a an old 2nd hand housing / cover the standard GTST turbocharger is a ball bearing, oil cooled, water cooled unit which is fantastic off the bat the typical hiflow that costs 2k upgrades all of these components to higher flowing spec items (compressor and exhaust wheels) and basically services the turbocharger to a brand new unit, youll also get a steel exhaust wheel (vs ceramic). the end result is the new compressor wheel is larger and can flow more air at the same pressure the exhaust snouth is enlarged to fit a lager exhaust wheel, which in turn can drive a larger compressor wheel the end result as a final package is more average power for the same level of response (as you keep the same std housing size) for very little loss of power/response and to top it all off any spastic can refit the highflowed unit as its the same as the std unit. bolt off, hiflow, bolt on, refit and away you go, everything mates up first shot and it looks factory. the main cost component of a ball bearing hiflow is the 2k, which comes down to the ball bearing CHRA and rebalancing. you can get pesant spec hiflows ie plain bearing, thrust, journal etc for cheaper, but they obviously have draw backs. the std unit is ball bearing so keep it that way to maintain linear response and reliability

yes the standard turbochargers are all oil cooled, water cooled, ball bearing on the GTST's and GTR's when you trash this turbocharger be careful at switch try and let it idle for a bit to let the oil keep flowing and not cook the bearings as there no watercooling system. also you may to alter your oil change frequency (ask the turbo guy who sold it). hopefully you dont

agree with the others, id say its in the turbocharger housing how is the manifold setup, it could be the backlog also

the leaning out at 7k will be in the tune there is no way std BNR34 with std turbochargers will max injectors you can check easily by MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, INJDUTY, NEXT, UP (and fang around) when you press UP it will show the top score at any given time - ie: peak injector cycle you should check the std airflow meters aren't maxing out (i suspect they arent) again, MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, AIRFLOW, NEXT, UP (and fang around) check it doesnt peak near 5v the engine check light flashes by default for 3 reasons excessive knocking injectors maxing airflow meters maxing the powerfc faq (in my sig) has all this information and much more

you can even try just watching SENSOR SW CHECK and blowing air from your mouth over it it should increase as you blow air on it, simple test

0.7v with IGN on is correct - anywhere around 0.5v is fine whats the issue you are seeing with the car? what are the symptoms

i dont believe the SMIC will be efficient im sorry, i just cant see it doing a great job at std boost sure it might be ok but once you do all the other basic GTST mods i cant see it doing much a quick a way to test is easy, get a GTST with the basic mods (exhaust, boost, air intake, 12psi) and trash the pants off it, really get her on boost. then stop quickly. run to the SMIC and check the temp of the left and right side if im wrong and its efficient one side will be mega hot, the other will be cold if im right and its inefficient (i suspect) one side will be mega hot and the other will be warm to hot ie there is little to no temp drop across the core youll find with a bigger core whacked bang smack in the middle of the car and airflow the temperature drop will greatly be enhanced if you do find its in-efficient (i suspect) what you will likely see is higher intake temps this will result in less power, more detonation and less boost crammed into the engine give the cost vs gains, i see no driver to stick with a SMIC a ching chong FMIC bolt on kit can be fitted for ball park $450 these days from memory?

mythbusters ahoy! the r34 GTT uses a map sensor, to check for excessive boost pressure, more as a fail safe in case something fails or someone is fiddling the ecu when it detects a high level of boost, drops to safety maps to protect the engine a map sensor is used to, as the name implies, sense manifold pressure or "sense mass air pressure". EFI based cars commonly use an airflow meter (or hotwire afm or MAF) to detect how much air the engine is sucking it. it then uses this information to tell the computer so it can work out how much fuel to add into the engine an alterante method to this, is to remove the MAF or hotwire AFM and replace it with map sensor. the computer then uses the pressure signal as a "engine load" much the same as a MAF / hotwire sensor and the engine adds in fuel accordingly. its commonly done when uses do big turbocharger upgrades etc. so in summary, do nothing and just keep driving around with the check engine light on (commonly listed as CEL) but you should certainly replace / fix it as its probably it safety maps (ie lower timing and slugghish)

the stock ECU will be fine just plug it in and it should start first shot

kryizyizz do u want to swap

anyone have a hacked wii they dont use? i would like to get my hands on one happy to swap with mine (unhacked) and cash offset