paulr33

you will loose respose, power, economy and the car will feel sluggish just baby it around with the stock ecu and youll be fine dont trash the pants off and avoid loading it up on boost with stock ecu

its in the service manual but yeah it could be 5 and then 7

its a two staged setup under 4500rpm its 7psi and above 4500rpm its 9psi

10kgcm2 is too high when engine is cold i would expect around 5-6kgcm2 at idle until it warms up do you have like a mega sump or very low oil volume whats the state of the oil pump / and oil system? how much oil is in the engine?

MAP vs TPS is pointless guess what TPS is when you floor it? %100 and never changes much like manifold pressure when your reach full boost so you go back to 1 dimensional tuning, the RPM axis

you would be stupid to sacrifice that $ for a skyline its much better in the house, but your call and depending on the loan you get they wont just give you $55k change to spend on whatever you like

you can, but why would you bother? a std GTR ecu would be worth about $2 on ebay just buy one not worth the hassle / effort

go see a mechanic and check it on the dyno each time it goes pop pop pop its doing damage

throw the mines tuned ecu in the bin

you can use an auto ecu, but why bother? just get the correct ECU also be sure to note, the auto ECU, will be checking if the car is in PARK from the gearbox so dont be suprised if it doesnt start, youll have to find which signal wire it uses for this

hello are you using this screen? if so, this is the ignition and injection temporary adjustment screen its meant to let you test and try out corrections to the whole tune ie different fuel, different base timing, other engine changes etc once you are happy with the amount of correction required you need to either a) alter the injection and ignition maps accordingly b) alter the airflow correction accordingly c) alter the injector correction accordingly or sometimes its a combination depending on what you are trying to do but yes, the screen above, wont save, as its not meant to, it resets to 0 when you power the car off

this is by far better; http://www.motortraders.net/imports/select...p;model=Skyline

more displacement is better in all cases if you can affford engine swap

nope pointless, waste of time, waste of $ and waste of everything the std bov is fine, is reliable, if you want to get noise from the std bov remove the std airbox and fit a pod filter, youll hear the bov working but it wont be doo do do dod thats compressor surge the do do do do noise commonly associated with a vl turbo, as they dont have a factory bov so when their throttle body closes, the pressure surges and collides mid air with itself this in turn harms the compressor wheel as its subject to excessive pressure repeatedly

can it be done? yes does it work? yes whats needed? wiring changes & youll loose VCt and some other gotchas is it worth it? probably not easier to buy R33 RB25DET PowerFC- should be around $1k at the most sell your GTR PFC and buy that, about $200 swap over easy

hi you are confused and getting mixed up when you dont use a BOV or its mega tight, it doesnt function, which traps the pressure in the manifold and turbocharger compressor the do do do do noise is the air pressure doing a mid air collision with itself and surging when you use a bov, the pressure is vented to the front of the compressor and all is well the purpose of a BOV is to open when pressure in the manifold spikes well past normal limits the BOV opens, and dumps this built up pressure when the throttle body closes to the front of the intake system. the best BOV is the std unit, setup in the std method and operation the 2nd best BOV is a single GTR BOV setup in the std method and operation the 3rd best BOV would be a std unit and so on theeres no need for an aftermarket unit if you insist on an aftermarket unit , stay away from ATMO VENTING units, that is, units that DO NOT plumb back they will cause it to stall, act stupid and run like crap SAY NO TO ATMO

pressure leak check joins, pipes, connectors and vac lines

its detonation back off the boost

stepping outside the square for a moment. from what we have all seen and what is common logic, twins are usually better we typically assume or expect twins come on earlier, provide better linear response and overall package is better typically with a big single we see low power, low power, low power, bang tons of power, tons of power at least in its simplistic form now im not saying a t04z is lag lag lag lag lag lag, power, change gears because we know its not, but its reasonable to expect a big single has a big chuck of lag, then power whereas twins, in a typical scenario are linear power curve, and progressive, making the car very drivable sure if you use twin 0.82a/r rear GT2835s then its going to be laggy, but lets compare reasonable scenarios so anyhoo, moving forward i still think you should go for a twin setup but think harder about the turbocharger choice, setup and what you actually want there are more than 1 way to get power/response from the setup at hand choosing a pair of GT-RS's then saying theyre too laggy is simplistic have u checked a pair of trust turbos have u checked a pair of garrett turbos have u checked a pair of apexi turbos have u checked a pair of hybrid turbos and so on..... look at the rest of the picture - what gearbox ratios - what diff gears - what wheels - how is it tuned - what cams - what exhaust setup - what fuel all of these can affect power delivery and if one of these is wrong or not setup, then it could certainly make the car laggy now im not saying go buy a 5k short ratio box, but im saying, if you want twins you can, but you can do other things to alter the see-saw to drive power vs response from them

its been done before, its nothing "new" waste of time, money and effort

i guess it would depend on the specs, if you are comparing twin GT-Rs to a 0.70 a/r rear T04z then probably the t04z would be better but if its a large truck style big single 1.0a/r ++ then twins hands down or perhaps t04z with proper twin scroll setup

do shell plan in introducing ethanol based products for the domestic market? given the trends towards green fuels and better emmissionions & competitors such as BP already have 95ron with Ethanol (E15)

just baby it around until you get the 023 installed and setup properly why insist on trashing it and taking a big risk? the walbro's are rated at their flow levels at 15v not 12v, so in your S15 or skyline they dont flow as much as they are rated for

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm then go look for documentation on the e-manage youll work it out for yourself

sounds fine to me, 13 is ok and 90% duty is ok plonk it on a dyno for $50 insurance, but sounds fine i wouldnt mess with the tune, unless something horribly is shown on the dyno check