paulr33

whats the problem you are trying to solve?

please dont just plug it and start the car there are numerous differences on the GTR 26 PFC vs ECR33 PFC injectors, maps, ignition timing, 02 sensor settings, airflow meters, airflow rams, wiring changes so be sure you check *everything* before you do it

ah bugger, could have been an easy win then

but i would hope in the real world, a 5% pressure change, wouldnt make the car run like a bucket of crap that would seem unreasonable, so it could be a poor state of tune, or a very quick and nasty tune? i woudl expect a typical map sensor / djetro system would compensate for a pressure change such as yours much like an AFM would when temperature changes from summer to winter etc

hello we need more information to be able to work out what is wrong, but it sounds like, without no further information you have a map sensor based setup thats been tuned in different atmospheric conditions, so when you move the car to a large variance in atmospheric pressure, the tune is off-whack this is certainly possible with mathematics to occur, but i am unsure how much pressure difference sea level is vs 400m above at sea level pressure we are 1 bar or 735mmhg or 94.8kpa at 400mb above pressure we are 711mmhg or 99.4kpa so its enough to drive a change in the map sensor by 5% difference depending on how its tuned, may make it run like a bucket off poo so with your current setup is it AFM or map sensor? if its link, we are assuming Map sensor when you had the powerfc, was it AFM or Djetro? did you have any issues with the powerfc? if you did have issues, what setup was it,? afm or djetro?

my vote is 2510 and money you save spend on diff gears will shift the average power band and make the entire package better ive seen a 32 with diff gears really excel in lateral acceleration vs normal 32s

check the rb20 turbo upgrade thread someone on here had rb20 and 2510 just check the power doesnt nose off too early but it should be fine id imagine a 2510 with diff gears would make the car pretty quick

if you can get the 2510 for half the price sub $1000, you would be mad not to go for it vs a 2530 for sub $2000 buy that, spend the money you save on other things to make the car quicker ie you could change diff gears to 4.5 which would drive more power / lateral acceleration making the overall package better

yeah you are mixing terms and goals a little do some more reading but a std turbo at 12psi wil make around 200rwkw an aftermarket turbo at 12psi might make 240rwkw or 300rwkw or 400rwkw or 500rwkw it just depends on the turbocharger and its compressor wheel and its efficiency map

try and replicate the problem while watching ETCl, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller do any of the sensor names go black background or do you notice any wierd values ie; a shagged throttle body or tps would show TPS with a black background when it goes out of range

check the basics and go see a mechanic reset the stock ecu, check belts, plugs, fittings in the engine bay check for any loose plugs or connectors check the afm plug check throttle body etc for anything loose check battery voltage at idle

check the simple obvious stuff given youve been in the engine bay messing around with hoses, pipes and crap to get to the plugs and coils its likely youve left something off, ie leaving off a vacuum hose, will result in unlimited boost, which will result in R&R and the car will run like ass so check the obvious, check all hoses etc, check what boost pressure you are actually getting too

again im not doubting power etc, im doubting the ability to reduce the intake temperature even without an intercooler you could make 200rwkw on a single dyno run it proves nothing, other than a single max power figure at a given RPM on the street under repeated excessive load is where the difference will matter

ps if you but that ebay link turbo - your a fool but good luck - what do we know

note thats a 3rd gear dyno run it should be in 4th, you cant use that to compare against other r33s as the diff gears is different it shouldnt matter if the dyno is setup correctly, but it does so yours is probably more like 160rwkw

please check the temperature of the inlet and outlet after a few minutes of a trash run on your ARC SMIC i would be interested in the in and out temps being a SMIC in the side mount location. the main issue is airflow, an intercooler needs as much as possible to be of any useful purpose. on a FMIC smack bang in the middle, the turbo side will be too hot to touch after a trash run and the plenum side will be stone cold. this is how an intercooler should perform. the issue here isnt power, as it will make power on a dyno no problems the issue arises when you trash the pants off it on the street non-stop and then its heatsoaked

hybrid actually means a combination of parts, components and peieces to make a working solution ie its custom parts, custom wheels, bearings, covers, fittings, flanges etc for something as critical and performance demanding on skyline it is critical you select a suitable turbocharger picking a mish mash custom hybrid unit is not going to give you what you want, if you are considering this, keep the std turbocharger it is by far a better unit than some of the ebay / hyrid / t3/t4 / kkr / chinese turbochargers if you want more power, you need $ to back it, not a $500 turbocharger, a $1500-$2000 turbocharger

goto micolour they will sort it out

nah the nissan logo is on the plastic casting, i originally thought it didnt contain nissan but it does, as jecs/bosch made AFMS for nissan whats the issue with yours? what car are you trying to use it on? what happens at idle? what ECU are you using? you cant it with a stock ecu

here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...tml&hl=ebay

ebay turbo buyer ahoy please see my signature before spending another second on random mish mash ebay turbos

this is what a fake z32 looks like youll note from the pics, the label is crooked, the mesh looks cheap and nasty the unit works but the voltage is all whakco and runs like a bucket of crap a legit Z32 should be around 0.5v at idle should have an orange JECS label on it http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/photo...z32/page_01.htm

hi, this is still broken, are you able to email my password to [email protected] some of the content is old and i would like to make some changes

ive seen non-handcontroller SR20 PFCS go for sub $700 either that or see sam - dr drift in brooklyn can remap anything sr20 based and wins every time

i got way too much apexi crap in my car ive got pfc hand controller, turbo timer, vafc and rsm the rsm speed and rpm with top scores and vafc shows pressure and tps (does pretty graphs) hand controlle does knock and water temp