paulr33

my suggestions get it tuned on the safest possible boost you can run, so 11-12psi, why bother with "hi" and "low" get the tuner to drive the car on the road with you driving, and get them to wideband tune it and lean out the cruise AFR's basically it sounds like youve been given a max power tune which is where the plonk the car on the dyno do the basic settings, set your boost, floor the ass out of it on the dyno and tune the max power curve and settings now thats great if you constantly drive your car at full throttle non-stop, but im guessing, like most owners you are typically on max throttle about %5 of the time, the other 95% is on light cruise so its critical as part of the tune, they either tune the light cruise AFR's on the dyno, it has some sort of auto-extrapolating, or the tuner does manual guess/extrapolate or they drive it on the road and tune with a wideband sensor also double check 02 feedback is on, if this ecu supports it without 02 feedback, it will waste some fuel and become black but without 02 feedback or 02 sensors a proper on-road wideband tune will negate the need for it

once again for all those who refuse to search or cant be bothered can you run 14psi on the stock turbo and ecu? probably not why cant it? 1) its inefficient, 2) it risks the turbocharger, 3) it will trip the "excess airflow" protection does the stock ecu have the ability to run larger turbochargers (start the car, idle, plod around)? yes does the stock ecu have the ability to run larger turbochargers (full load, high boost, unleash fury on the throttle pedal)? no does the stock ecu have boost cut? no does the stock ecu have excess airflow cut? yes does the stock ecu have its own built in protection over more airflow? yes does the stock ecu typically panic and run like ass with heaps of boost? yes does changing your turbo typically mean you need to remap or piggyback or replace the ecu? yes why? when you change the turbocharger, up the boost, change the compressor wheel, hiflow it, fit a larger turbo, run tons of boost the following occurs more air is injected into the intake as a result of running either more pressure or running a larger compressor wheel this in turn drives more air into the intake. the ECU has mapping against the standard AFM and knows when "too much" air is coming in it uses the AFM signal to watch for this, and when its see's f**kloads of air coming in (ie from your assloads of boost, or larger compressor wheel) it goes "hmmm way too much air is coming in, i reckon something has failed, lets f**k off all the timing to protect my beloved engine" so the timing is dumped and it runs mega rich is this boost cut? no its excess airflow protection people usually call it "boost cut" cos they dont understand it any other way and its usually "hit" when people up the boost pressure usually when a stock ecu is remapped, the edit the "excess airflow" ramp and basically disable it, which in turn gets rid of it other devices like the apexi SAFC bend the AFM signal, which in turn work around the issue, and the stock ecu never see's the high level of "airflow" standalones dont have any such code in the maps so you can run whatever you like

do you need to change the computer to fit and run a bigger turbo (start the key, plod around etc)? of course not do you need to change the computer to make more power and run heaps more boost? absolutely it flows too much air (over the stock turbo), the stock computer panics and thinks there is something wrong (ie failed wastegate etc) so it takes all the timing out to protect the engine. a remap is required of the stock ecu or change of ecu or a piggyback to trick the ECU into thinking there is less airflow

id be checking the basics, base timing check the ignition map etc sure an intercooler could be inefficient, but that much?

so ive read the whole thread again twice and still dont get it i dont get why you think or your tuner thinks its the intercooler core thats the restriction power is a simple calculation of air + fuel + spark + compression = power so the 2835 can keep up hows your fuel? hows your spark? the turbo probably isnt out of efficiency whats the tune like? whats does the AFR look like on max load? how is the ignition timing tuned? whats base idle timing ? check it with a timing light? what ecu? what injectors? what fuel pump

$ per killowatt, the yellow t04z would win

no

PFC users ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK look at 02-1 and 02-2 these are your 02 sensors they should blip up and down when you tap the throttle if they are toast they will show 0.00 or hardly move and the sensor name may become highlighted in black background if its shagged/unplugged

how well does the current setup hookup and how do u find it to drive how well was it tuned do you know ive found theres oodles of response and nice-ness locked away in a basic max power tune

GT-S ??? is that what we call the GT-T but n/a equiv ER34 i the movie its clear and obvious BNR34 dash cluster with 4wd and a-lsd lights in fail mode so its an ER34 rear wheel drive with BNR34 kit for action shots etc, but interior is BNR34 with left hand drive and hacked 4wd and a-lsd

whats the point? we all know the stock ECU has R&R - you are trying to prove nothing? get a piggyback, remap it, stand alone or change the ECU

yeah its likely remapped or hacked to have the R&R removed

theres a listed differences thread somewhere the ECU differeces are bugger all, not even worth finding out what they are the stock ecu is junk, dont even bother trying, remap, standalone or piggyback it all stock ecu's r&R when airflow exceed's set levels its not a fixed setting on boost, its based on airflow it usually happens when you run around 10-12psi however

car b has series 2.1 or series 3 RB25DET which is RB25DET with some neo parts, ie ER34 CAS is visible

yep as per your pics car a is series 1 rb25det car b is series 2.1 or series 3 rb25det theres 2 tenths of bugger all difference between them the ECU differences are negligable and not even worth worrying about the fact your doesnt hit R&R its pure luck, it might be a mangled/remapped/hacked ECU (likely)

its likely to follow the same suit as R33 GTST engine models, there are 3 known variants series 1 = RB25det came in 1993 to 1995 GTST series 2 = rb25det came in 1997 ish onwards series 2.1 or series 3 or something else = came in 1998 R33 GTST series 2.1 or series 3 or something else is RB25DET with ER34 CAS and some slight ER34 parts, but still R33 RB25DET series 1 will have green or blue label AFM series 2 will have pink label AFM

dual stage still exists its just lower pressure for AUTO

yes you are right, and the nissan service manual is wrong........................................... i mean, its written in plain english, with a clear disticntion between AT and MT im not sure how clear it needs to be ? AUTO runs less boost in the factory setup

get a powerfc

if its the fuel pump the engine will basically stall its unlikely to half work, half not and if the pump is toast, i'd expect the car to not start

the FC wont turn on when you turn key to ACC, but it will when you turn it to ON having IGN, ECCS and WRN in a state of ON (black dot) at ON is normal - there is nothing wrong the black dot means the relay/switch is on, ie your IGNItion is on (yep youd expect that), ECCS is on (yep youd expect that, the ECU has power) and WRN is part of the warning check loop which means the engine check light is on - have you turned off the std boost kit? its covered in the PFC FAQ, turn the boost kit off and engine check light will go out away

yep but using someone else's remap is a bad idea who knows what its tuned for or how its setup could be enough different to make the engine fail ie lean afrs, expecting larger fuel pump, different afm ramp, different injectors etc

check the basics check the AFM plug check the CAS plug check the throttle body plug reset stock ECU try cleaning the AFM check boost control - what does guage show? is it working? is it stable? are you running unlimited boost? mangled boost controller?

i guess the question is why do you care if they pull you over and want to check they will check, if you refuse, it raises suspucion and you are probably hiding something its not rocket science really

happy birthday from everyone at SAU VIC all the best and have a good one