paulr33

you will have one or two cells that are too high when you drive it on the road yourself you typically drive it different to how the operator plonks it on the dyno and does a WOT power run my advice is take on the street with datalogit plugged in logging the map cells and knocking (knock map) then youll find the 1 or 2 offending cells, you can take out 2deg in those specific cells and youll be fine find someone local in perth with datalogit, drive around knock watch and youll see it or get your tuner to do this for you - but he will charge you

now that i have your attention im doing some painting this weekend and if u would like to come drink beer and laugh at me while i slave away u can. Beer &pizza are available. Dont have to help, can come and talk shit also. Keilor downs, let us know if u want to come. Tönight and weekend

or drouin? haha

leave the car off over night what does it show next day

google for jap parts specialst on ebay - they have lots of 2nd hand parts or try importmonster.com.au

however the stock turbochargers in the BNR34 are larger, the compressor is 0.53a/r vs 0.42a/r (BNR32 and BCNR33) but the ceramic issue/risk still remains in all family turbochargers

found a good site with cheat sheets covering lots of common networking technologies covers in good enough detail vlans, ios's, routing, switching, all the good stuff which can be annoying to remember sometimes http://packetlife.net/cheatsheets/

will be there

mythbusters ahoy! from the nissan service manual where HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi if someone has the BNR34 workshop manual (not the 15mb version) it will show you the exact specs and which the standard swing valve would operate it given BNR32 is 0.75kgcm2 and BCNR33 is 0.82kgcm2 which 0.42a/r turbochargers and the BNR34 has 0.53a/r turbochargers (larger) it would be reasonable to assume the stock boost is lower. its probably more like 0.80gkcm2 in stock setup. All of the standard GTR turbochargers are ceramic exhaust wheels (normal & V spec). N1 model has steel wheel (according to my chart) - happy for someone to confirm? if you want the stock turbocharger specs for GTR you can view them here; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/gtr-turbochart.htm

via here (pm is OK)

why would u want to buy a BCNR33 with ECR33 brakes and headlights?

hi this wont work, you cant just go from ljetro (AFM) to djetro (MAP) and expect it to work you will need to find a djetro PFC to suit RNN14 if such a PFC exists if not, you are stuck with AFM - unless you can find an AFM to MAP converter and use it (HKS Vein Pressure Converter)

a standard service i would pay around $150 for this would include oil, oil filter, check of basic mechanics, water and coolant top up, check brakes etc plugs if need be, check diff fluid etc a major service i would pay around $500-$700 for this would include standard service + new plugs + fuel filter + air filter + gearbox oil and whatever else may be needed timing belt at 100,000 allow $400 for that alone for dyno check around $60 which is just a power check, theres nothing to tune here

yeah the ECU needs to be working, well at least it needs 12v power to turn on im not able to get the ECU up and working without it in the car

yep chasers is fine too (forgot them) they did mine FMIC on ECR33

will accept grog as payment in keilor downs ready when you are assume ECR33 ? what car is it ? just to confirm the tune is locked, you should have 0's everywhere on the hand controller

ring re c ustoms in springvale eas in airport west racepace (forget what suburb) ask them for price for supplied and fitted FMIC to suit ER34 any core they supply and fit will be fine and of high quality

ask some of the local workshops or rampant or import monster

run MFD diagnostics (covered in the howto section) and check the sensor its either disabled or the sensor is toast or its unplugged

cheapest way? dont buy the parts and do it yourself find some other sucker selling his GTR (pick the model) which has that power level and enjoy it its reasonable for GTR owners to spend oodles on getting mega killowatts only to sell it a short time later they usually spend a truck load on parts, get it all sweet, then sell. you can pick up the power at a much cheaper price the $ per killowatt plummets when they sell the car setup as is vs you buying the parts and doing everything yourself

turn the boost down 1-2 PSI run 100 ron as extra insurance if you can make sure you have good fuel check tyres dont be a stupidhead drive sensibly

check basics and ECU diag surely the haltech must be able to show you the basic sensors? PFC users ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK simple?

mythbusters ahoy! where HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me know

so much was changed on the car at once it could be anything check the basics ask the mechanic ask another mechanic check the dyno chart check basic engine health and setup - base timing, basic sensors, base compression, base boost check etc

good find now explain what the vspec diff system does and how its different