paulr33

don't confuse the BOV being the cause of the issue (the original poster), its doing what its meant to do when pressure in the manifold surge's to a mega level - ie when you close the throttle body, the bov opens and dumps the pressure so when yours is ramping on boost and the issue (whatever is wrong) occurs, the pressure in the manifold surges (ie compressor surge) and the BOV opens because the pressure instantly surges to spastic levels. i believe the compressor wheel is at fault, i would first pop the cover off and check the compressor for any damage / basic level inspection. if it looks ok i would take the turbo off and get it checked by a workshop. make a call then if its worth fixing or not (ie a new turbo could be cheaper than fixing a mangled compressor, depends on whats wrong)

ill try it if someone pays for it (haha) ive got ass loads of timing in my tune and the car feels great, but thats on the std throttle body making boost at idle? is this even technically possible?

adrian has made around 270rwkw on the standard turbo this was with NOS. so i think the question the original poster has, is what boost pressure kills the std turbo its around 12psi. 12psi is the ok / risk level. it may work fine for years or it may shit a bearing in 20 minutes ive had mine at 0.85kgcm2 for about 5 years now, got car at 58k and its now got 215k on the clock and still std turbo at 0.85kgcm2 so its luck of the draw power doesnt kill the turbocharger, excessive heat, shaft speed (from running mega boost) and poor tune (excessive egt's) are what kill the turbocharger

has this turbo ever worked? the fluttering occurs from compressor surge compressor surge occurs when the pressure past the outlet of the compressor wheel exceeds what the compressor can actually supply. that is, the compressor and its map dictates as the best possible efficiency it can supply say 10psi of pressure (lets say) but when its running on your engine pressure past the compressor is actually reaching 15psi. the end result is the compressor surges and you get fluttering when its on boost. this is typical of mismatched / mangled highflow setups and/or mangled intake setups. so has the turbo ever worked in the past at this boost level? if yes, check basics boost control and intake if no, then check where the turbo has come from? it could be a mangled highflow spec and it might not even work at the boost levels you are trying to run, ie: it may always surge at 12psi or whatever you are trying to run

nothing wrong with being wrong did he retain the std TPS?

there must be a dozen how to tune and get more power from a standard skyline threads in the howto / tutorial section my advice is to go and find these and read read read these cover all your questions, install issues, what parts are good, where to buy, and even pics and guides on how to do most yourself youll find people wont reply and give you good info, as they have put all their effort into writing these guides previously

and the other issue is you've changed a gazillion things at once

post it in vic, and offer free beer but check you have the consult port plug wired in, if its not wired in, it doesnt work

oh yeah in terms of performance and running gear the evo runs loops around it but it looks horrible as, i would buy a crapper car and save up for a something more suitable the evo 8 is my favourite, but if i had the choice of the two cars in this thread, i would go for something basic and save up more $ for a nother model.

yep its 2nd generation apexi powerfc to suit ECR33

remaps are a bit of a dead weight, its one of those things you buy for $50 remap it for sub $500 and its worth $0, no one wants to pay any amount of money for it, as its got someone ele's tune on it whereas a stand alone you buy for sub $1.5k ish and when you sell it, its still worth that $ amount regardless of what you spend on the tune

given the complexity i dont get why you would reinvent the wheel if jaycar make a off the shelf thing, and from memory they do then this would be perfect

wow some whack ideas going on here back to basics please get nissan consult or find someone with it and run a diag with the software check the basics sensors and see whats up the quickest, cheapest, easiest way to find out what sensors are mangled the sensor should read 0.5v at key ON position and around 1.1v at idle if you had consult, you would be able to check this, and it would even state engine has fialed to start 2 times, check AFM signal etc (if it was toast) to those who do engine swaps or are considering this level of basic diagnostics is fundamental you will waste so much time guessing and play swapsies of sensors before you do engine swap get consult and check the basics most guys in each state have consult, put up a post offering free beer for a quick consult check the best $20 youll ever spend. save so much time, hassles and effort guessing whats wrong

yep the part # is correct check my sig, the powerfc faq has everything you could ever possibly think of regarding the PFC if its not in there, it either doesnt exist or no one cares bout it part models and units are included in the faq my site has the ECR33 wiring diagrams from memory it shows you differecens between DE/DET paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com

birthday happy and have a good one see you soon

it wont be the pump as that doesnt affect load, the throttle body changes, larger cooler, greddy plenum, larger turbo and pipework etc will certianly affect it and make it run like ass you have way tooo many mods for a stock ecu. are you honestly suprised it overfuels? im surprised it starts given the amount of crap youve changed sure they aren't critical sensor/interopabiltiy changes but certianly the volumes, load, and characteristics would be all over the shop 1) stop driving it 2) remap it or 2) get a stand alone ecu or 2) get a stand alone or 3) get a stand alone

as mad said, the wastegate wether internal or external, the spring inside that, is the lowest pressure you can run that is, if you floor it, it will run as much boost as that spring allows. so if its a 5 psi spring when you floor it, and pressure builds up, the spring moves at 5psi, so your minimum boost is 5psi the boost pressure wont go past the spring level rise unless......................... you have boost controller to bleed more pressure, that is, fake the signal to the spring to say to it, hey theres really only 3psi here, don't open boost climbs to 5psi, hey spring, theres really only 3psi here, dont open, boost climbs to 11psi, hey spring dont open, theres really only 3psi here climbs to 13psi hey spring, theres 5psi here, open so the spring in the wastegate either internal/external controls your minimum boost on full load if you want to run 0psi / aka N/A mode then you need to wire the wastegate open but the trick and issue here is, you wont ever build boost until that gate closes, and it will be sluggish

wiring changes may be needed, the PFC assumes you have ECR33 RB25DET so whatever is different/missing on the loom the PFC wont know about so check the wiring loom differences on RB25DE vs DET and make up what is missing. but the PFC is plug and play start first shot on a GTST

evo 6 is horrible

The Z32 is from the 300zx and it's able to flow more air vs the voltage range it reports to the ECU the Z32 is orange label and the R32 GTST is green/blue label so if you have orange label, you have a Z32 already

be sure to note the stock pipework has accordian style edges inside the pipe this helps break up the airflow past the AFM Sensor wire to avoid reversion if you replace it with a nice smooth and straight pipe the AFM will get reversion and run like ass so if and when you do replace the stock pipe, make sure you a nice big bend in the pipe to break up the airflow

check how much before you buy it, given its a garrett BB unit, the rebuild costs are usually over $1k ask before you buy, you may be surprised

yeah there is and people are over it basically you wont get any useful replies a t3/t4e spec turbocharger is ass, dont even bother its oldschool dinosaur technology, your std turbo is better spec'd

the issue with advancing the timing is, the way you are doing it, it affects the whole tune your engine can deal with more timing when its coming on boost and off boost and this is typically where good gains can be had, but once its on full load, it cant take too much more so if you backdial the cas to advance the timing it will shift the entire map, which means detonation city on max load so you need either 1) a remap of your current tune 2) a copgyback device to advance the timing in certain areas 3) a standalone to tune as you like with the right experience and skill and time you can make the car drive quiet differently i was able to dial in +12 deg ignition timing in some areas on my map with my powerfc and some on-road tuning

have a look at the PFC FAQ in my sig, from memory it covers all the model #'s