paulr33

also check on the datalogit forums if someone has worked out any alternate sensors to use, and if they update faster this may help and blow away the hotair heat soak more quicker

the PFC will dial in injection correct based on airtemp it's the PFC saying, the air is hotter, run richer to avoid detonation city if you take out the correction - that is, unplug the airtemp sensor, or move it the same airtemp is still going in (ie sub 70deg after sitting there) and the injection will be 1.00 instead of sub 1.10x ish so it will likely detonate as the airtemp may be too high so by moving the sensor, you just give the ECU false readings which in turn wont enable the injection correction for excessive intake temps which in turn will likely make it ping if the engine is tuned correctly so your options are 1) tune the car in winter and setup the airtemp correction correctly so that in summer, by design it backs out timing (the PFC supports this on airtemp) and richens up 2) move the sensor, give the ecu false readings and hope it doesn't ping 3) unpiug the sensor and give the ecu no airtemp reading and hope it dosen't ping

happy bday and all the best lil fella are you still around and still at work

fireworks factory is where it's at

the last bit doesnt make sense on the airtmep vs ign vs boost to me it sounds like when the water is hotter (over 95deg) it adds in more fuel yep that makes sense, but that it goes on to say cap it at this AFM load range so the table looks like this; 110 1.094 11776 95 1.0 7424 the first # is water temp, 2nd is injection correct, 3rd is boost (max) apparently so the first two make sense, ie when hotter, add in more fuel to richen up and bring water temps down, but cap the AFM load doesnt make sense. the 3rd number is AFM load from the P range, 11776 is about 3/4 down on the left hand side, and 7424 is around half way. ie half load on the load axis range. why is it referenced like this? no idea logical would say to me, this should be in kgcm2, as in, when water temp is 110 or highre, richen up and cap max boost much lower than normal target so the engine isn't overworked when mega high water temps the same applies for airtemp vs ign vs boost 100 1.195 11776 70 1.117 (blank box) 40 1.000 7424 so thats for airtemp, ie at 40deg or higher do no correction ,but that max boost value is still there? when we get to 70deg airtemp richen up and do nothing with boost when we get to 100deg airtemp+ richen up more and use 11176 AFM load for boost max (apparently)

from the datalogit yahoo groups

the defaults for BCNR33 Airtemp look like this; at 50deg airtemp retard 0 deg ignition timing at 60deg airtemp retard 3 deg ignition timing at 70deg+ airtemp retard 5 deg ignition timing at 40deg airtemp injection correction is 1.00 - ie no change at 70deg airtemp injection correction is 1.117 - ie richen up cos airtemp is high at 100deg+ airtemp injection correction is 1.195 - ie richen up more cos airtemp is high it also has the ability to cap max boost (ie open the solenoid earlier than normal) based on airtemp and water temp i havented work out how these work yet, maybe iill try these on my GTST as it looks like based on water temp, it can cap max boost ie if water temp under 50deg, cap max boost at say 0.50kgcm2 instead of 0.85kgcm2 (normal target)

yeah its not worth changing to BCNR33 PFC for that be sure to note the following features are enabled when you have a working airtemp sensor ignition retard vs airtemp - the PFC can back out timing when temp exceeds xxx DEG intake temp boost vs airtemp - the PFC can back out boost, run less boost when temp exceeds XXX deg intake temp ie if you had a working airtemp on ECR33 the tune would basically self adjust as the airtemp would be heaps higher vs winter. so you would say tune the ass out of the car in winter (like mine is) with heaps of timing and mega aggressive tune. then when summer comes along the airtemp would be lets say around 25+ more than winter (ballpark) and you adjust the correction tables for airtemp. so when its summer it will run a touch less boost (you can choose how much less) and a touch less timing (you can choose how much) and its basicically self-adjusting. the manual way (ive done this) is to simply back out 1 or 2deg across the whole map in summer and have a winter / summer tune. the braindead way of permenantly doing this is to tune the car in summer with the most relaxed timing you can run under full intake temp and then in winter, keep that same tune ie you will be running the car a little under its ideal timing in winter, but you wont get knocking in summer

when did the problem start what changed since then

given your new my recommendation is to find your local club's chapter in perth and attend their club meetings from there you can meet all the local guys and ask away and find a good suitable workshop this will save dozens of wasted time, hours, pain and $$$ on crap mods etc if you cant be bothered doing that, do a search on the tune up threads either in the forced induction section or how to this type of thread comes up weekly and all the good info, pricing etc is in those threads

if you can be bothered buy a VL afm plug (it connects to the Z32) for about $10 and then find modify a busted ECR33 S2 female socket and make yourself an inline ECR33 to Z32 loom adapter

agree with ash, if you fit it correctly and keep standardish mods you should be fine but it does come down to where you drive, how you drive, luck on the day and the cop etc ive had my r33 since 2003 with std mods exhaust, fmic, ecu, boost controller, pod been through numerous booze busses, cop pullovers, etc and no issues at all if you get a cop that gets the rules wrong, they can say yep intercooler is defect and probably even write it up etc but its usually clearable quite easily as they have got it wrong, ie if a cop gave me a defect for intercooler, i wouldnt argue it with him there and then the GTT SMIC is a pointless and utterlly useless mod, anyone considering fitting a r34 GTT SMIC thinking it's an upgrade is a fool

nope, as there is no physical airtemp code in the firmware, ie, no AIRT, no readout even if you guess the wire (going from the BCNR33 loom) like i did, it still wont work, as the firmware wont do anything with a magical voltage on a wire its not expecting voltage for your only option for airtemp on ECR33 is to fit a BCNR33 PFC and remap the tune to suit ECR33 and wire changes to make it run ie; pointless for airtemp feature, whilst good, thats a very expensive and painful exercise (workshops can do it, but $$$$)

fyi ive been running 12psi on the stock r33 turbo for about 5 years now 220,000 kms and still goes fine, i got the car at 56,000 so its had over 100,000+ of 12psi

if you run the r32 actuator, then you dont need the solenoid, it's pointless the r32 actuator will give you a prefect 12psi, whichi is about the max i would run on the r33 turbo here are the spec of the std actuators where HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me know

ok i figured it out, the wobble (side to side) is from the emulator giving a poor mode of 50/60hz (or my tv not supporting it correctly) the game iso disc i have is a mega emulator one and they all the issue, even the bios does, so id say my tv doesnt like a mixed 50/60hz mode so i messed around and started using the homebrew channel (ive never used it before) turns out the homebrew browser lets you access all the hacked apps and emulators. i always thought the homebrew browser, was basically a ported mozilla to the WII so i never used (why would you?) - but it turns out it opens access to the hacked apps and emulators library so from there i installed the snes, nes and sega ms emulators and they work fine, i had the side to side wobbly issue with the sega ms emulator and it had an option to change from 50hz to 50/60hz and 60hz. the sega ms emulator on the wii emulator disc must be an older version and doesnt let me choose. so all good in sumamry dont bother with discs if you want hacked emulators etc, use homebrew channel, then homebrew browser and install whever you like another nice bonus if you do this is you dont have to use the game cube controller, the normal wiimote works in all of the emulators

has been covered to death, you really should search you will get lots of short answers and smart ass replies ditch the mines ecu, get a real tuneable ecu dont bother a smic, get a real intercooler, GTR is same as FMIC boost controller, pod, ecu and turbo are all either illegal, unallowed or defectable so the whole "to avoid cop trouble" is pointless. just do what ever mods you want, and make sure they are easily revesable if you get a nasty cop, you will get pinged for everything. most cops are reasonable

yeah i get that and understand its different any ideas why the TV would randomly switch between not supporting it (wobbly left to right) and then supporting it (no wobbly) without user input

its pretty bizzare ill try and find an ntsc to pal converter box

noof was the one who chipped it, he said its fine, and the tv is at a fault

ok so after some messing aorund ive tested the wii on my projector and it works fine first shot so the tv is being stupid but i dont get why mid flight if i do nothing, it randomly supports NTSC or the WII changes to PAL ? any ideas why it randomly stops wobblying?

ive got my wii chipped and hacked and it ive got a gamecube emulator disc with a trillion games on it now the wii works ok, the original games work ok etc but when loading the emulator disc the screen wobbles left to right i notice when the gamecube disc boots it comes up with its GCOS bios screen (blue) and its got at the bottom NTSC BIOS the obvious assumption is my tv doesnt support NTSC its an LG plasma 42PG20D got it about 1 year ago so when you laod the gamecube disc and choose the emulator to boot (ie snes etc) it loads that and then you select your game etc and its fine all this while the screen wobbles left to right rapidly then randomly the wobblying goes away and you can continue playing other times you have to constantly reboot the wii, try again and you get lucky and the wobbly stops within a minute or so ive tried to replicate it over and over, and cant make it consistent, its just random each time, but usually stops wobblying within a 1-2 minutes (but not always) the guy who chipped it tested it and said its fine and that the disc is ok and he said the tv is at fault sure - so has anyone else seen this before? the wii is connected via normal composite into the tv

you can only add a ljetro air temp sensor where the PFC supports it ie you cant add air temp on ECR33 PFC as ECR33 car never came with an airtemp sensor and the PFC for that unit has no physical airtemp sensor to check if your car supports AIRTEMP look at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and if you can see AIRT then your car supports airtemp sensor

check the actuator and preload check diff gears (manual has different to auto) check tune check tune check tune did i mention check the tune? ignition timing plays a bit part in how the car performs and more importantly comes on boost check basics, check base timing with a timing light and make sure its correct , ie sluggish timing makes the car perform low across the board i assume you want more responsivenesss since the turbo has been fitted so we can assume its not an actual car problem, but more of a tune related problem, since the new turbo went on so either the turbo is junk or the tune is poor or both

the likely assumption is turbo oil seal ? doesnt a catch can just mask the issue ie if you have a catch can, then we assume all is OK, but something is obviously causing the excessive oil in pipework