paulr33

if you want to see how loud your car will be with POD filter pop the bonnet, undo the top lid of the std airbox and take the top lid off drive around for about 30 seconds thats how loud your car will be a POD youll find you wont need to change the BOV or do anything the stock one is loud as once you fit a POD filter

i changed rotors without bleeding, worked fine, just gotta be quick (like a pit crew) before the calipers close

a few reasons, age, availability, cost of other models such as the R34 becoming cheaper too but also be sure to note that i think 2 years ago the 1989 import rule (forget what it is currently) meant that BNR32 could be imported under SEVS this meant heaps more cars could come in via grey imports - thus the market got swamped, and heaps were for sale, so the price drops as theres an oversupply, a buyer can choose price, features, mods, wheels etc and get exactly what he wants the r32 is still the original "banned" godzilla in australia it really needs a good set of wheels with good offset a nice wing / good colour and some basic mods dont forget the car is based on 1989 technology yet it has computer controller all wheel drive intercooled twin turbo individual throttle bodies

buy a POS first car cheap as chips save as much money as you can in the mean time when off p's buy an ER34 GTT and youll be fine ER34 GTT to GTR conversion is stupid, pointless, not worth the $ and a waste of time the money youll spend all up - you could just buy a GTR R34 for the price they are now the converted ER34 GTT to GTR will be worth nothing in comparison to what you spend

yeah its wierd that when the engine is running it doesnt go anywhere near the normal values that would make the car run like ass as the ECU has mapping and fuel enrichment etc based on TPS (and AFM, but TPS is also used) so whilst your floor it, the ECU doesn't detect you are flooring it and thinks the engine is only under some minor levels of load even though AFM is probably showing normal full voltage

hacked wii apps are pretty sweet ive got wiiradio which is a radio front end to all the shoutcast streams works pretty sweet

if the water temp sensor is dead the engine check light will be on if its out of whack and working (ie giving a valid reading) the ecu will assume the water temp is, what the sensor says so if the sensor is out of whack the ecu wont know any better but if the sensor is dead the ecu will turn on the engine check light

no i mean, as in, if you only have 1 car and you need to move shit around etc the skyline is hopeless as you have 2 doors and a boot thats useless the evo has 2 more doors and a bigger boot so its handy if you have only 1 car and occasionnally want to move stuff around

happy birthday and all the best from the sau vic crew cheers

have you got your own place? if not, buy a house and play cars later if you have a place then go for the GTR the GTR is more appealing, bad ass on the street and plenty cheap to go around my pref would be with the GTR. evo has some advantages though, 4 doors and a boot is great

are you sure TPS at WOT is 1.4v when running and 3.9v at ON but engine not running? this would make the car run like ass if it was true double check this please

its fine remember you can have too high knocking, and too low knocking, ie if its too low aka zero, its not tuned hard enough

there you go - get that part # then is that just for the loom and plug ? or plug, loom and sensor? cos my sensor when i brought it was $140 from repco, generic 02 sensor 3 wire to suit el falcon

i love ghetto mods like that my favourite ones are where someone welds an external gate on the turbo housing itself, that is my fav ghetto mod

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pu...bo-t300900.html quality

if your AFM is shagged the car will run like ass, lots of smoke, overfueling etc if you are getting sub 350kms to a tank the AFM is fine things to check check and replace 02 sensors - they have a limited lifespan and only they die after around 50,000kms ish and the part is about $100 the 02 sensor is solely responsible for getting good fuel economy. with a good setup you can have plently of power and 400km's to tank each time easily if you were getting sub 300kms to a tank, then 02 sensor is toast over 300kms to a tank is fine. stop loading the engine up and stop bringing it on boost, problem solved if you dont believe me (or others who have said the same) give your car to your girlfriend or mum to drive for a week i bet they get over 400kms to tank also what do you classify as "to a tank" are you measuring the same way each time do you run it empty? do you fill it up to the top? how many litres do you fit in when you "think" its empty the gtst fuel gauge goes past E before you are empty and then the idiot light comes on the difference between near E and past E is around 40kms (at least) of light cruise the 02 sensor is usually the most common thing to be the cause of poor fuel economy as most work shops / services wont ever check it etc and theres no idiot / warning light that comes on when its dead so you wont know if the sensor is dead / lazy the car will just run like normal. you can find a replacement 02 sensor to suit ECR33 from your local repco etc the same sensor matches the ford falcon EL which is a generic 3 wire 02 sensor be sure to note, you must cut the wires and fit it yourself, it doesnt come with a plug

yeah the amount of fuel in the tank and how much you put in wont have an effect even running empty has no effect, as the pump sucks from the bottom all the time anyhoo your likely causes as ash said, given you dont have the stock pump is poor pump install - its probably floating around, and when go lower than half full, it lays on it side or something silly check the basics look inside the fuel tank and find the pump it should be slotted into the hook / latch thing on the roof of the tank, so that it goes all the way to bottom and doesnt slide / move around

more painting

The R34 has two levels of protection, the first one is the normal excess airflow - ie too much airflow, the ecu cuts out the timing and dumps in heaps of fuel, this occurs when you run more boost. the second is the maximum boost level. the ER34 ECU has a map sensor which it watches to see what the boost pressure is, if its too high, it cuts the timing and dumps heaps of fuel. so to avoid that you need to defeat both protections i cant remember how to beat the map sensor protection, but im sure its been done to death before, ask someone who has an ER34 or do a search the excess airflow is easy, you just fit an SAFC or AFM signal bender to cheat the signal and ECU doesn't see the full amount of airflow coming in - thus avoiding the protection

agree with ash also note wallbro rated on 15.somethingv - it wont get 15v in your skyline ie it will flow less but as the others have said its a risk and a decent risk, if the pump cant keep up or struggles to flow enough - the engine will lean out (it wont stall) and probably go bang from excessive heat as its lean

yeah check it when you are driving or look at the logs another way is to view SETTING, ING/INJ which is the temp adjust screen, check out the Kij and Fin values these are injection value in real time unsure if the PFC will show you corrected value (it should)

New one for the new year

as a reference the stock turbo is able to reach 12psi around 2850rpm

you shouldnt need to, and you definelty shouldnt modify any of the sensors, please don't do that if you think the PFC is adding in too much fuel when it shouldnt due to airtemp correciton either adjust the amount of correct, ie less, so if its say 1.095 then try 1.045 or adjust the airtemp range either will give you the same result ie less overfueling at a given airtemp or a higher airtemp thresohold the key to getting it right will be if you shift up the airtemp range or lower the injection correciton, do you get pinging (youll see check light come on) so thats when you know you've gone too far ie - if you didnt have this airtemp correction or you turned it off, its likely it would ping, so its a good thing, it just sounds like its maybe a touch too sensitive or too much correction

to save some $ fit GTR injectors, 440cc is better than 370cc and fit a new fuel pump the fuel pump is the achilies heel of the engine if not done correctly if its weak or mangled, the engine will fail, period if the pump fails, its ok, as the engine stalls, its only when it leans out or can't keep up (but continues to pump some fuel) that the engine goes bang mangled or cheap walbro's are known or not being able to keep up as ash and trent have said, so stay away