paulr33

yeah thats cos regardless of N/A, manual, auto, turbo, twin turbo its still a grey import nissan skyline which is probably high on their list to be stolen so even if you have 4 door, n/a auto 2litre its still going to be hefty full comp im surprised 4 door vs 2 door would make a difference, im not sure why it would ?

id go for a shitter for your first car youll make mistakes, hit things, forget things and likely wont look after it

hi, covered to death in the powerfc faq (in my signature) read it and check if its the AFM, Injetors or knock causing the engine check light to come on to clarify, the engine check light is orange, this is a warning sequence light, as the colour is orange the oil pressure light, is red, and is a critical sequence, as the colour is red the orange engine check light is used (with the powerfc) to identify maxing sensors, broken sensors and excessive detonation isolate the cause for the orange light flashing by using advice in here and the FAQ

true in actual fact, when you agree and "opt" for the "12 month good behaviour" you already have your points back. so at the time you agree, you revert back to 12 - even though you haven't lost it (the licence) and you get 12 - minus the points you just lost. so regardless of your desired decision either good behaviour or instant-loose, the points are reset at that date

im not local but ive got a series II stock ECU you can try - can bring to next car club meeting its unlikely the stock ECU is fault, it has lots of built in / post diagnostics and failsafe modes to protect itself try unplugging the main battery terminal to the car, pump the brake pedal a few times and then reconnect batt and start car this will clear all the daig codes on the ECU and instruct it to self learn or at least re-run diag at post engine start it may clear some non-fatal crap but worth a shot, given zero effort required

yeah the points get reset minus what you just lost

are you talking about stock vs stock or are you talking about mods as well? if your talking about mods then exhaust, intercooler, tyres, boost controller, ecu, boost to 12psi and a good tune will beat him no problems, youll be surprised what a mild gtst can beat with a good driver if your talking stock and no mods then drop tyre pressure (dont keep it at 40psi) in the rear learn how to drive and how to launch and go for it, your best bet is to out-launch him (dont rev to 5k, but above 2k) and go from there turning up the boost on a bog stock gtst will add a touch more power, but its far from making the car twice as quick going from 5psi to 11psi the stock exhaust, ecu, tune, intercooler, intake will hold the car back a bit even with more boost stuffed in stock gtst will do 140rwkw on the dyno and with a touch more boost you might get lucky and see 150rwkw the crossfire you posted makes less power, but more torque it depends on how heavy it is as well and the skyline is around 1400kg so check its weight the crossfire might have more average power (sounds like it) vs the skyline but the skyline has good diff gears which gives it great acceleration

hot fuel can make it run like ass check the pump setup you have isnt too big, ie the relay surge pump isnt pumping fuel flat out when the fuel rail doesnt need this makes the fuel come back and circulate around, and like you said, it gets hot doing this

investigate why the oil pressure light came on this is a last resort failure light that will come on when pressure is too high or too low i would be checking all engine mechanics and speaking to a workshop if the pressure is outside the engine's range given at 6000rpm it would be enough to shag the motor no worries check basics check oil level check oil filter replace oil filter replace oil check oil cooler for issues (if you have one) look for oil looks go see a mechanic forget power, fix and check the oil pressure issue it could be sender is dead, but usually that affects the stock pressure guage the idiot light is failsafe backup method so if this comes on, its probably correct

thanks for all the replies guys he has booked it in for new tyres tomorrow so all sorted the wrx is a nice car to drive i miss a standard clutch when driving his car the headlights are amazing vs r33 = hopeless my clutch and clutch pedal is hopeless vs stock

got a mate trying to find tryres to suit WRX Still can’t decide what I want Kumho KU36’s are 225 for 215/45/R17 Bridgestone Adrenalins just can’t commit anyone got any feeedback want something good to suit 2005 (i think ) wrx impreza love you long time

well common sense would prevail here, given you have pulled the whole car apart and all the sensors etc it could be anything, check the basics, double check everything, trace everything, and use elimination how on earth do you expect guys on a forum to help? if the car is in bits / sensors unplugged? it could be one single wire causing it to not power on

maybe the AFM is mangled or damaged the AFM voltage at idle should around 1.0v at idle and 0.5v at key ON if the AFM is showing 5v at idle, the ECU will think the engine is on full load, which would make it stall and run like ass so check that, you can also try starting the car with the AFM unplugged, it should run in failsafe mode, which means rev limit to 2500 but it should idle with an unplugged afm (i think)

yes read the PFC FAQ in my signature the version depends on the PFC model # you have if your PFC has serial # - if the PFC you have has serial # which looks like RB25-xxxxx then you need FCC-NT if your serial number looks like ECR33-xxxxx then you need FCC3 - check on the back of the SR hand controller, for what version it is from memory, it should be FCC3 so it should be fine as its a generic hand controller there are 3 known places you can't intermix hand controller and PFC between different mainstream version ie use FCCNT on ECR33-xxxxx PFC serial use FCC3 on RB25-xxxxx PFC serial (this is the most common mistake people make) use Toyota hand controller on nissan PFC etc etc

did you ever do the base idle adjustment on this PFC? has this PFC ever worked? when you install a new PFC you need to do the idle adjust and self learn to make sure it idles correctly this is covered in the PFC FAQ under new installation steps. if this PFC used to idle in the past check the basics such as fuel, spark and sensors

yes it does, but it only uses the same port for copgyback power and ground signal the djetro map sensors splice into the AFM wires, but use the boost control kit loom to steal power and ground for each map sensor so the signal wire on the boost control loom is unused, this is where the map sensor signal for the boost sensor goes i havent heard of someone copgybacking the djetro map sensors into the boost control kit port signal wire, be careful with this one, it might go bang

the other typhoon...

so has it always been like this or just started since the service if always then how was it tuned, if its just tuned on the dyno then its likely to knock on the street, most cars knock differently on the street vs dyno typically the owner abuses it thru the gears which is different to load simulation on the dyno the end result is you touch a few cells tht might have too much tming, so these needs to be fixed if only just started then check what was changed and adjusted at the service

im confused, and i think you are as well. the PFC will have an existing tune on it which you can erase by the hand controller or by datalogit ETC, DATA INIT, YES, Reboot Car, Default maps are now loaded or plug in datalogit, Read All, Save the file to your PC in case you need it and then Menu, Initialise, reboot car, default maps now loaded either of these will get the car working and drivable to a tuner remember if you data init / initialise (either way) to perform self idle adjustment before driving the car (covered in the PFC FAQ) also be sure to note if car has aftermarket AFMs, map sensors or injectors to note down their settings before DATA INIT / Initialise

the vic club has its monthly meeting on tuesday night at a pub in the city you could try your luck there given a lot of members attend someone migth know whats wrong or might be able to bring consult cable them with i dont know where mine went, i think someone borrowed it and never got it back (rekin/pat32?) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...ng-t291829.html

all for saving money, but just be careful we don't go giving guys with sub 200+rwkw an option and an idea that's viable and safe to buy $50 255 tyres and think they are perfect. sure there are some accident write off on's etc and some are probably okay, but some are probably rubbish too. just be careful please.

my gtst is able to reach 12psi by around 2700rpm its well well before 3000rpm i suggest looking at the tune and the controller setup

the mafia (jono) got it working and he did a video of his car driving around when i did it on mine i had issues with the fuel pump control as soon as the PFC had power and car was set to ON the pump pump control would constantly reset so the pump would re-prime approx every second, so it would fire and pass diag, but reset the fuel pump and re-prime i suspect this is what is happening with yours. cubes and the mafia are the best to speak to. cubes (joel) was pretty cluely on why the fuel pump would -re-prime constantly. check the Fuel PCM wiring etc, i think when you go from BCNR33 to ECR33 the wires are flipped etc?

as the voice of tanya in red alert im there

191rwkw, 105mph @ 13.7 with wheelspin