paulr33

the ap engineering rb20 PFC behaves the same as the stock ecu, that is, it doesn't know what injector type you have, it assumes stock injector setup it can support larger ones etc, but they must be the same type, that is, impedance, voltage etc

get someone to help you, thats the quickest way to get it sorted post in your local state chapter "please help me install a boost controller, free beer" and get someone to come out will save dozens of threads back and forth and guesses etc

are you sure you've done enough research to justify installing a replacement smic? you should do some research, it might save you some $, some time and frustration the smic has been done to death in the past 6 months, all the useful info is there its a pointless mod IMHO FMIC with a proper sized core at the front or dont bother

not really important what it makes what is important is the gain you achieve compared to your previous run on the same dyno so if its on the same dyno then its useful to check against what you made last time but if its a on different dyno the results arent that statistical for a accurate comparison but yeah should be around 180 to 190rwkw the afr's will probably lean out with stock pump tho

www.nengun.com has 415-N001 Hand Commander Old version PFC AU $ 426.43 for new which is the same as FCC NT

who cares fix the economy surely there are more important issues in the paper and news to discuss

as stenve said powerfc is not supported on an auto car sell it buy get a remap or piggyback

if the coilpacks are toast, they would have been toast on the standard turbo as well, and it wouldn't make it not idle

youve changed so many items all at once, it could be any of those to eliminate the afm, can you go back the std AFM and see if it idles and runs normally with stock AFM obviously dont load it up, just idle and plod around if it works, then new AFM is either set wrong, mangled, damaged, wrong AFM or mangled wiring if it doesnt work (ie problem still present) then youve eliminated the AFM being the cause i would look at injectors and how they are setup

RPM = SPEED / 28 this assumes standard diff gears and car dynoed in 4th gear

just drive it like a normal bloody car theres very little difference between your car a bog stock commodore / falcon you aren't on full load / full boost %100 of the time, so it's irrelevant

well you said its happened since the DE+T when you did the conversion what did you change (list everything, even if you think its irrelevant)

PFC FAQ updated as per above

i will update the FAQ to refer the wording a bit better the one in the picture is a normal RB26 PowerFC at the start, we all thought it was a legit Power FC Pro Unit due to the sticker, but alas, its a normal version the only legit power FC Pro model we have seen is http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...C%20PRO%202.jpg you can see from the chip the string version contains FCPRO in the string this would be present on the hand controller when you do ETC, VERSION as well

work out the target boost you'll run and get as close to that as possible the less difference between the actuator spring and what you want to run the better then use an EBC or bleed valve to get to your target ie dont get a 7psi spring and run 18psi much better to get a 15psi spring and run 18psi but the spring is the minimum amount of boost you can run on full load ie you cant get a 15psi spring and have it on 10psi full load and a "switch to 17psi" for hi-boost aka scramble

how much do you want to spend and how much power do you want to make a "t3 turbo" is like saying you have a "computer" for sale there are million different pc manufacturers, combinations, models, variants, specs, speeds, etc, its impossible to clasify it as a "computer" much like a turbo as a "t3" typically "t3" spec turbochargers are cheap ass-spec units either sold on ebay or from dinosaur spec cars like vl turbo's etc - probably the standard one is better and easier to fit a no-spec'd t3 is worth no more than $300 ? it could be complete junk on your skyline? a brand new ball bearing garrett spec is typically $2000, so a sub $300 is going to be shithouse a 2nd hand R33 turbo is worth $200-$300 in comparison get the turbocharger compression tested or your engine? you can't compression test a turbo, but you can get it inspected, checked and verify of specs and/or model etc ATP in melbourne can do it for also some well known workshops can inspect them for you and do basics checks, but for true check i would check with ATP ATP is the only place i know of, there would be heaps more in vic, some other guys will post up some places if the turbo isn't bolt on, it isn't bolt on, period. highflowing it doesn't make it magically bolt on. if the t3 turbo you still want, doesnt fit, then youll have to change stuff to make it fit. probably flanges, bolt patterns, spacers, rotate the housings etc to make it fit highflowing the turbocharger involves a replacment of all items that are perishable (compressor wheel, exhaust wheel, bearings, seals) and the only things that remain original are the cast iron housings. the replacement items are higher flowing spec (thus the term highflow) so it makes more power for the same sized unit.

as ash said buy busted GTR AFM's or buy the HKS fake shell ones from nengun.com

i tried a monza one from autobarn many moons ago it was ass, it killed all the throttle response i dont know how, but i did with the monza one fitted ,there was noticable lag from the time you open the throttle to the time the engine got positive power took it back, changed to a k&N one and it was back to new again

no, in vic we go home when the street lights are on

i would expect fairly basic with some menu's

hi crew looking for someone to do some webdesign for a non profit club they will pay but obviously dont have a trillion dollar bill like mr burns if you are interested drop me a pm with your contact details

this has been covered to death, please dont bring back an old topic such as bov's and compressor surge

go see a mechanic

well basic diagnostics, check the wiring, check for anything loose etc the issue has occured after you have unplugged it, so look there

gcg.com.au