paulr33

if your gonna get plates get EXCOPGMH747HIPSIEXTERNALGATEBIGSINGLET04Z2NVIDBNVSIPLZU

IDSPISPOPD

the auto runs less boost so be sure to fit a controller quick smart

never go into first gear only go into first gear when you are stopped if the vehicle is moving, the lowest gear you should select is 2nd again this would be from sub 30/40km/h you dont need to downgear in sequence but dont go from 4th to 1st or 2nd theres too much ratio difference. if your in fourth and slowing down, goto 3rd and brake a bit use both to slow the car down. not one. if you stick with using one (ie engine or brake) when you need to emergency stop you wont clutch in, which will mean the car wont stop for peanuts in an auto when you brake, the engine is disengaged from the clutch, so you stop normally if you do the same in a manual ,the car will pull up heaps slower and take much longer, cos the engine and clutch are still engaged. ie like slowing down a spinning wheel whilst someone is still pedaling behind on it (on a bike)

its in the PFC FAQ as per my signature

pretty buggered, but good weekend some more painting and new robes installed soon woohoo

yeah the base injector settings are exactly that, the base settings to get the car running correctly its reasonable to expect a complete retune of the fuel and ign maps especially if you are going from 440cc injectors to 1000cc you cant just expect a simple adjust of the injectors to retune it for you you now need to learn how to tune the fuel map its not hard, just read the documentation or read the pfc faq or get a tuner to do it for you if you dial the injector settings in and its lean, then on the fuel map add in some more fuel - simple really

yeah i can see why you would switch to EFI when doing it, but it isn't mandatory certainly a good idea, but non-efi still works

nope you can have turbocharged carby its called either suck through or blow through either turbocharger in front of the carby or after the carby its pretty complicated and a big mess and you cant run an intercooler (mixed oxygen and mixed fuel = bomb inside an intercooler core) ive looked at it before with a friend who had an old torana and got a to4 kit for it

ghetto forced induction is where it's at bring on - turbochargers at the rear diff - external wastegate welded onto the turbocharger housing - single turbocharger on v6 with psycho exhaust manifold - blank plate on the turbocharger CHRA assembly to remove the compressor N/A style

why no hks vcam!@@!!@@ 11ty

you want time? but the magazine

gangster fitment

i recall hearing some did a rb25 VCT onto an RB26 head is that the same thing as the HKS VCAM

well that didnt work too well dos4gw apps lock up and windwos doesnt install cant expect too much an emulator, inside an emulator

about to try and install win 3.11 on the dosbox on the wii wish me luck

for the AWD to work the ECU in the boot needs TPS signal sent to it on your loom find the TPS wire and bridge it to the wire that runs to the boot ie it comes from the loom on a wire to the main car ECU it is then relayed via the ECU to another wire, which runs to the boot to the AWD computer you can simply join these up (i do this to make Active LSD work on the PowerFC) if the ECU you use (PFC or non AWD ECU) doesnt relay the TPS signal

what ever happened to jar

old school times hey maybe we should bring back horus, inasnt, mines_datsun, vl's back, jet33, redlinegtr

what do you think is causing the knock? do you think its the AFR's? do you think its the intake temp? do you think its the ign timing? why do you need to run 18psi? is your compressor efficient at that level turbochargers once out of the efficiency island give diminshing results, that is, for every psi extra you dial in, you dial in assloads of hot air the more hot air you dial in, the more the engine detonates so - reasses - is 18psi efficient and giving you good gains, ie from 17 to 18psi do you gain 10kw or do you gain 1kw?

ah sweet wheels sold, good stuff yeah i dont post that much anymore no where as much as i used to i used to post day in day out in forced induction pages after pages and same with pm's - every day pm city from dudes asking crap thankfully is quite now

are you sure its 'limp mode' ? if the ECU runs in limp mode the engine check light comes on and stays on this means a sensor is out of range and is giving a bogus signal, ie 0.0v etc if you see the engine check light on then look at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller (while the light is on) the dead sensor will be highlighted with a black background (nice and bold) then you will just need to check out what is wrong with the sensor for the sensor names you can read the PFC FAQ in my signature

17th out of the top 20

sweet more posts than shan

!