paulr33

why are u bothering to clean the CAS? i dont see why ? to achieve what? we all agree the CAS would not cause the issue you are seeing

s15 injectors are around 480cc (turbo manual) and you want highflow them to 700cc? are you sure? i dont see why you would bother and risk it with crap highflows? wouldnt it be easier to get drop in nismo 550cc's ?

if the AFM is maxing out what do you expect the ECU to do? of course its going to panic and dump all the timing etc, its a standard protection mechanism it would seem unrealistic that you would max out a stock ER34 GTT AFM are you sure its reaching 5v and flat lines? does it ramp up linear or instant ramp to 5v? maybe something else is wrong with the AFM control circuit? with key to ON but engine not running AFM should be sub 0.5v and at idle it should be 1.1v a bog stock ER34 GTT with a stock ER34 AFM Will not max out, so something is fundamentaly wrong either your AFM is mangled, the wiring is mangled, your ECU is mangled or you are looking at incorrectly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NStOzalaL1U...feature=related

went and saw avatar 3d not a bad movie, eyes a bit sore after it its quicker to fly to queensland

NI2MO at keilor downs plaza all the time NOOFLINE is his new evo 9 on sunshine ave the other day

whats on for the w/e were going the movies tonight - any good movies on ?

good weather hey

i dont believe there is any response gain by using a split dump when the gate is closed, it is closed and nothing comes out, so the size is irrelevant its only relevant when the gate is open the split dump reduces the turbulance by ensuring they each have their own seperate paths having the turbocharger outlet hole going into the size of the split dump dump (if that makes sense) or runnign to a 3" bell mouth, i dont believe there would be any different in response they both must travel through the smallest common denominator, which is the exhaust wheel outlet first

understand so are we trying to decide if the scenario is any different with AFM vs MAP? or if its possible in either way to fry the turbo as a result of a leak?

NA-R33 did an R33 v8 conversion, look for the thread by him in the naturally aspirated section

i think that it's either a non issue in the real world and its not common or the physics dont support it an ever increasing turbocharger shaft speed with a leak theres no way either of us can prove it either way without a turbocharger shaft speed guage and some testing garrett sell and recommend a turbocharger shaft speed guage to monitor the turbocharger shaft speed maybe look into one of those if you are that keen and that precautious on it i think there are more common elements that cause turbocharger failure in today's day and age i would assume and logic would say so that the turbocharger is pretty well balanced and setup to maitain a higher than efficient shaft speed for how long is debatable, but it would be at least able to cope with this for a short period i think elements such as poor oil flow, oil contamination, excessive pressure surge from no BOV and compressor damage (from open mouth or poor pod filter) are your likely causes of turbocharger failure

i still dont think the physics would support it if there is a leak on the intake side the actuator never opens so all the exhaust gas must run via the turbocharger wheel (instead of bypass) so technically the turbine speed is ever increasing, but and it's a big but, the engine load is basically jack all, as there is no decent positive boost pressure forcing more load on the engine

i still call bullshit on it being an improvement any core could make 200rwkw even a top mount core could make a single 200rwkw pass but after that run, its heatsoaked and useless for anything further thats where the difference between the core and its location that matters once its heatsoaked, how quickly can it ditch all the heat thats stored in it

collateral is a good movie

define your budget first i say do you have unlimited money? there is minimal gains vs $ on cams, cam gears, manifold and plenum the stock items are fine and its not needed for sub 300rwkw dont bother with trust mx pipe, just get a 3" split dump in one pipe or 3.5" if you can it will be cheaper to get a split dump in one pipe it will be cheaper (should be) to get the pfc boost kit vs a seperate HKS unit this means less wires and junk, the PFC then enables boost correction and its simple set and forget

no, i dont think the physics would support an ever increasing acceleration of the compressor wheel remember with a boost leak the engine is working no where near as hard, which means less exhaust gas less exhaust drive, means lower compressor driver as well, so i think the turbocharger wouldn't be ever increasing its turbine shaft speed

agree %200 say no to SMIC dont bother with it, just get a proper front mounted larger core instead

if the CAS is f**ked the car would drive like ass and be sluggish i wouldnt expect every light to go out etc i cant think of any common issue that would make every light go out and die, other than main ecu loom being loose

1998 ECR33 is meant to have ER34 CAS, this is correct id sounds pretty fundamental your issue i suspect the main ECU loom is coming loose unplug the main ecu and re-plug it back in ensure it clips in evenly and firmly for every light to go out and die its fundamental failing that, remove every fuse and reseat them 1 by 1

with a leak i dont think pressure would exceed a high enough level to damage it with a reasonable leak i dont think boost would go much past a couple of psi, if that so the turbocharger would be spinning fast enough to damage it however if you clamp the voltage of the map sensor, or it fails and gives a bogus reading then depending on your boost control, you may have unlimited boost as the actuator spring never see's pressure, as map tells the solenoid not to open, so it never does this in turn runs unlimited boost and can kill shit

im with shan, i wouldnt want to pay any more than $50 for a remapped mines ecu

probably not, BNR32 needs titania 02 sensors, the other GTR models use different ones i think the BNR32 is the only car i know of to use titania 02 sensors

for the 4wd and active LSD systems to pass diag at boot up (ie when key on) they need a working TPS signal the signal for the TPS comes from the normal throttle sensor, but it runs to the main ECU the main ECU then relays this TPS signal on another wire which is run to the boot so for bozodos you either need your aftermarket ecu to relay this signal (pfft yeah right) or you splice the TPS wire and link the one from the TPS sensor to the one that runs to the 4wd / A-lSD computer in the boot

i was at highpoint yesterday toyota supra N/A in the carpark FMIC core bolted in, no pipework connnected awesome