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paulr33

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Everything posted by paulr33

  1. yeah its got some crap reviews and poor feedback on imdb wish i had of read that first bah hum bug oh well back to downloading 35gb of iron chef
  2. funny people = not funny and didnt need to go for 2.5 hours
  3. yeah stock clutch is pretty good for normal driving as soon as you wind it up or get on the burnouts in 2nd gear / clutch dumps = dont even bother go for a single plate heavy duty should be sub $1200 fitted and supplied
  4. are you sure that's correct? i always knew it to be (SPEED / 28) * 1000 = RPM this assume 4th gear with 4.11 diff gears
  5. still use my wd hd tv works ace and love it
  6. do you mean 1996 to 1997 r33 series 2 or late 1997 to early 1998 series 2? 1997 to 1998 from memory may have ER34 coilpacks anyway ie the plugs and loom is a bit different but 1996 to 1997 won't fit
  7. yeah we have seen where the PFC won't crank over as its more fussy about wires, and the circuit etc look in the FAQ for ECCS, there's some documentation on the ECCS system and how it needs to be setup the assumption is your ECCS is fine, as it cranks with the stock ECU, but it might yield some clues and where to look
  8. it would be strange that VCT would magically die i dont think we see very often that VCT dies are you sure it's just died? has someone been fiddling and then you think it's died? have you played around with the wiring loom before hand?
  9. nah even if it was remapped it shouldnt cause it not to start unless it had like mega large injectors and wierd AFM's just looking for any other clues as to why it wont start yeah if the ignition is different from standard it could certainly cause it do you notice anythign different ? mangled turbo timer install etc ?
  10. it depends what actuator is on the turbo this spring is the minimum boost you can run on full load if its got a 10psi spring you may find 10psi on a larger compressor wheel (as its a highflow) will be enough to trip out the ECU protection and cook the clutch
  11. the sounds 64 rear sounds good it must be ace to drive
  12. hey hamish for your 2835 is it 64 or 87 rear? it sounds good
  13. really clutching at straws here does the car have any whacko-mods? plenum? throttle body? mega coil pack / injector hacks? try unplugging the afm and see if it starts (long shot) does the stock ECU have any signs of being tinkered with? remap stickers or crap like that? where are you located
  14. the SAFC wont affect the VCT in the R33 at all
  15. hey my car has stock suspension still 0 to 100 in 4.88 is nobbad ...but far from ideal the car would be quicker with suspension work well mine has camber, caster, toe and pineapple kit so still stock ish
  16. bugger sam back in the day got 9.9 bah!!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...l+car+simulator
  17. 10.46 with BNR34 and R33 gear ratios cant get quicker !!! must get to 9!! open to suggestions
  18. bcnr33 at 10.576 quicker than bnr32 cos it makes more power according to the game now to try brn34 i had to make first gear taller in the 33 as with std config its just bouncing off the limiter as soon as you launch sub 11s with std first gear bah hum bug - with 3.108 vs 3.407 im able to get 10.5
  19. bendix ultimate bulletproof and can take plenty of hard street runs ive had them smoking before and have done tons of km's on them, still plenty of bite
  20. golf + HKS T51R SPL = fun otherwise :zap:
  21. yeah its defintely in there why it occurs, we dont know, but have seen it on a number of cars stock ECU works fine PFC doesn't start, check the fuse, it's missing, install fuse, car starts im not even sure what fuse it's meant to be, ie what is the socket wired to ?
  22. current 1/4 in real car simulator is 10.571 with BCNR33 with race tune now to try BNR32 and BNR34 to see wghich is quicker
  23. search for the word fuse in the FAQ, you'll find it also is your car auto or manual
  24. heppy birthday and all the best from the sau vic crew have a good one
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