paulr33

did anyone go and see paranormal activity it was supposed to be like the most scariest, freakiest, movie EVER but............................. its not real.......................................................... how pointless...............

if anyone has good info the the -7s im happy to add to my signature but apparently they're no good and pointless

as per my sig for the right model specs

actually odnt mind playing nfs underground every now and then and real car simulator

are you here to challenge every response you get? it seems you already know the answer - whats the point? 500cc's are fine 300rwkw end

so hang on, the tests showed that one fuel made more than another well wouldnt that mean the fuel had less octane count ? less fuel = higher ratio = more power? i mean if you put bog stock 98ron in a car and dyno it change nothing put 100ron in a car and dyno it i wouldn't expect a magical power increase is my lateral thinking not correct?

it should be ok, i mean there isn't much you can do it about - ie you can't negate humidity

yeah its common knowledge that temperature would affect performance, humidity on the other hand i am unsure just use good fuel and ensure the engine is in good working order the intercooler is not on the factory setup to suit the climate, it is there to reduce heat from the intake charge from the turbocharger. the intercooler is only as a good as the ambient air temperature

have used many brand of 98 over the times, all are the same from how my car performs fuel looses its octane count over time, so the logner it sites there, the less octane it becomes

ah yeah sorry its called THRO they all seem normal read the PFC FAQ, for some strange reason if a given fuse is missing (the FAQ has which one) the car wont start with the PFC, but will with the stock ECU

read the PFC FAQ in my signature, it includes a section on car not starting check the basics i assume it works on the std ECU, does the car have any stange mods? any wierd boxes or wiring loom hacks etc? ECT, SENSOR SW CHECK what are the values of AFM1 02-1 WTRT TPS NTR please let us know

550cc's x 6 to make 300rwkw is a piece of piss i think from memory some magic guy in perth made 300rwkw on stock 370cc injectors with a mega FPR hack, but then it blew up hahah 550cc's is plenty of headroom

agree with rob, for an extra $500 you can have a well known, well supported off the shelf race car ECU supported out of australia

sounds like shaking a can of spray paint

hi mount, low mount, internal, external, twin, single - i think its irrelevant in your case the engine is not running as it should, you can tell, you can hear it wind up and come on boost, but theres not enough exhaust gas for full song as the engine isn't working optimally its basically running at like 60% capacity, and when it peaks past 6000rpm VCT kicks off (as your link says to) and hey presto its running as per normal fix the VCT retune away you go stop changing things the more things you change the more guessing games and youll never nail it down to what it was

ive checked out the video and had a listen to it a few times the setup you have is defintely considerably largier than one would expect under normal operation yes the turbocharger you have in question is a large unit, and yes its going to be laggy, but how laggy is the question from the thread so far and number of suggestions you have highlighted one key fact that stands out with alarm bells ringing "yeah as far as i know the vct is set to kick in at 3000rpm because at 2000rpm it was causing a slight throttle miss fire" "found out from tuner its from 3000 to 6000rpm" this is a key change in the engine characteristics and setup the factory setup is on at 1800rpm and off at 4700rpm for the basic specifications this provides the engine with a nice solid response all the way through the rev range and makes the engine crisp on the throttle this is the optimum setting for the factory setup and coupled with a good tune of the AFRs and IGN map the car is amazing to drive (stock turbo etc) with your setup it appears the turbocharger responds well (you can hear it wind up instantly), the car sounds loud and fast ie the engine is making response / power and it sounds like we can hear boost and so on its just the engine is lacking its punch, aka i suspect because VCT is on so late, the engine is essentially sluggish there is enough exhaust gas and road speed to wake the turbocharger up and bring on some boost (you can hear it spooling away) but not enough to bring on full song the end result is, you have a sluggish and underperforming setup consistently until you reach the normal VCT kick off point past 5000/6000RPM where its ineffienct to keep VCT on so my recommendation is 1) put to the VCT back to the factory specs 2) debug why it misfires at 2000rpm 3) re-check the complete tune now that VCT is fixed 4) re-test i suspect the car will be very different to drive

and i guess thats the key driver if you goto a tuner with some unheard ECU he is either going to tell you to go jump or charge you a trillion dollars as he has to much around and waste time if he is able to work on a well known supported ECU the setup is bulletproof, works and all is well. if you dont like the service, you goto another tuner who supports the same ECU. you can get the right price etc as well as more than 1 workshop supports the ECU

learning is good i just dont see the point of another ecu there are dozens of off the shelf plug in ecu's to suit the skyline market

removing the mesh would achieve zero, if anything as status said, it would cause reversion and probably make it run worse you can stretch the point at where an AFM maxes, so effectively keep using it even though it maxes out (MAP sensor style) and it is OK, but if you max the AFM at 4000prm this is bad and you need to change to larger scale items. maxing them at 6700rpm is probably OK (map sensor style). please run up on map sensors and how they work before going to them just because, you can probably make 300rwkw OK with the stock afms

HKS GT-RS or GCG Highflow

chcek on the hand controller turn the car to ON, but don't start it on the hand controller ETC SENSOR SW CHECK look at WTRT if its name is black and bold highlighted the sensor is toast, out of range, not connected, damaged or mangled replace the sensor, check the wiring, check how it's connected, look for a short, or something else is wrong if its working the sensor name will appear like the others and it will have a voltage next to it it should be around 1 ish volts with the key ON but engine not running, ie im guessing water temp would be around 30deg ish ? if WTRT is highlighted in black bold the engine check light will also be on

you may find a lot of sau guys are intrested in mega kits with rims etc just basic looks are ok, they seem to be more keen on increasing power and acceleration

overnight parts from japan hks t51r and a pod filter no worries

agree 100% on internal vs external, re: good clean power external seems to be the way to go if you want good clean power and no issues check out roy's rb20 td06 setup, with his proper external setup (manifold, gate, dump) his setup is bulletproof and makes tons of power, even on the rb20

whatever is wrong, its pretty fundamental, your 100rwkw under the mark check the basics check timing check fuel check spark check boost check AFR's check timing any one of those will likely yield the low power im not sure an in-efficient intercooler would account for 100rwkw missing, but certainly a rag in the intake pipework woud