paulr33

if VCT is off (ie in your case) the car is sluggish and performs like ass until past 5000rpm VCT will engage if RPM < 1800rpm and RPM > 4700rpm and Gearbox is not in neutral (ie NTR switch is off) so check basics, if i unplug mine or disable it, the car is sluggish as all hell until 5000

yeah thats after the study was painted the tiles in there are a bit icky and same with the tiles in the entrance area but will rip those up later later late, that will cost a fair bit so in no hurry new robes go in tomorrow, that should be ace!!! how did the draft quote come up?? i want a wall ripped out, but i think its goign to be mega #$$$

back to work hoohohoh

sold

sold

i will be there

$1019 in paint and paint tools on the house so far got 2 rooms to do left but they need a seperate colour (dang!)

no idea re: points and fines but... your insurace could be void if they are looking for excuses to not pay out a claim and realise its a manual car and you have an auto licence

you need both, the turbo sounds like ass and the tune probably hasn't been redone since you changed the turbo

it was designed in the original OEM setup to protect against retards putting penis fuel in the tank its not designed to back off the timing because its tuned too aggressively

the pen timer is able to display 02 sensor value and also guess how hard the engine is working based on the sensor ranges its pointless and achieves nothing, you can just leave it disconnected (to the timer) but make sure the 02 sensor runs to your ECU

just leave the 02 signal disconnected, its pointless and achieves nothing as its from the narrowband sensor you might have cut the wire instead of splicing it, which is why it might be running like ass

thats what the factory specs say ... i cant see it opening any less its well known the R32 actuator gives you 12psi

no, that's incorrect from the nissan service manual; HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi so the minimum boost you can run when using the R32 actuator is 12psi

check the actual wiring of it with mine if i boot the car up and drive around shortly after TPS goes to 0.00v A-LSD and SLIP fail and the engine revs to 1500rpm and stays there (as it panics because TPS is dead) so i turn the car off, mash the accel pedal a few times (to quickly open/close the throttle body) and then re-start the car and it's fine if youve replaced the sensor, i would check the wiring

based on what youve told us so far id say TPS could be a likely culprit both systems need the TPS signal (even at 0km/h) to run and pass diagnostics if TPS is unplugged, broken, out of range, then the system fails and the lights come on the TPS signal comes from the throttle body sensor then runs into the main ECU harness into the main ECU from here the ECU relays the same TPS signal onto another wire, which runs to the boot and feeds into the 4WD/A-LSD computers. check the wire # on the engine wiring looms ive seen my TPS go out of range and cause my A-LSD to fail like yours does a known fix that I have seen (like yours) is to mash the accel pedal a few times this manages to clear the out of range TPS signal and return it to normal state TPS should 0.35v ish at idle (ie nothing on the pedal)

on a very quick short / run it might be ok but after repeated loading up the stock core will be useless and wont perform the end results would be excessive intake temps causing detonation

the knock safety map is basically a idiot mode / brain dead feature it's designed to be tripped when you put penis fuel in the tank and run the car on the normal tune its hardly a full proof be-all engine protection system and i wouldnt rely on it to save my engine the car should be tuned correctly (pfc or nistune) and if you notice constant knocking (PFC via engine check light) then you have either penis fuel too much timing intake temp too high boost too high so you change one of those and knocking goes away only an idiot would ignore it and keep trashing the engine

going to djetro doesn't fix the shuffle, all it does is let the ECU run off map sensors instead of airflow meters the turbochargers will still shuffle after you install the djetro kit if you want to prove it and verify without actually buying anything go and unplug all your AFM pipework etc and just leave the AFM's open mounted or even try taking them off completely - depending on how you plan to setup your intake once you install the djetro kit djetro is simply a workaround on the shuffle problem. but not a correct fix

get it highflowed before you put it on, then youll make some good power as the rear is larger

and check the pumps physical mounting, check its not sloshing around in the fuel tank

BNR34 for 33 to 39k? are you for real? dude any BNR34 under 50k is going to be ass

the best and cheapest i can think of is an SAFC the PFQ FAQ in my signature covers the differences between the SAFC and PFC if you are ok accepting what the SAFC does and its results it would be cheaper for you vs PFC

the ping you are seeing from power/boost is cos the stock turbo is out of it's efficiency range, not because your are near max injectors

read the PFC FAQ in my signature for info the on the PFC and how to use it the PFC is amazing to tune on any car, even a stock mild GTST , the results are amazing once fully tuned my car still has basic mods intercooler, exhaust, clutch, tyres, fuel pump, boost controll and aggressive PFC tune, it drives amazingly