paulr33

ahoy hoy happy to offer some advice msn me when you want

there is one off sydney rd just past broadmeadows

yeah from memory mine was the same i had a friend replace the alternator before hand and then the same problem was present then took it to auto elec and the car sat at the auto elec's for 2 days while they debugged it eventually found a missing fuse in the boot

agree, with a flat battery the lights all either come on and work, or are a bit dim but still work its only when you goto crank that it dies in the bum and the lights go dim etc and with a flat battery it wont tick tick tick cos it will still try asnd crank and go raaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhuuuuuuu and all the lights will go dim ie the starter motor will still try and fire and turn the crank it wont just go click click click

there's no airstrip at tarpin point

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...er/faqs.html#t9 What is compressor surge? The surge region, located on the left-hand side of the compressor map (known as the surge line), is an area of flow instability typically caused by compressor inducer stall. The turbo should be sized so that the engine does not operate in the surge range. When turbochargers operate in surge for long periods of time, bearing failures may occur. When referencing a compressor map, the surge line is the line bordering the islands on their far left side. Compressor surge is when the air pressure after the compressor is actually higher than what the compressor itself can physically maintain. This condition causes the airflow in the compressor wheel to back up, build pressure, and sometimes stall. In cases of extreme surge, the thrust bearings of the turbo can be destroyed, and will sometimes even lead to mechanical failure of the compressor wheel itself. Common conditions that result in compressor surge on turbocharger gasoline engines are: * A compressor bypass valve is not integrated into the intake plumbing between the compressor outlet and throttle body * The outlet plumbing for the bypass valve is too small or restrictive * The turbo is too big for the application What is the difference between a BOV and a Bypass Valve? How do they work, and are they necessary? A Blow Off Valve (BOV) is a valve that is mounted on the intake pipe after the turbo but before the throttle body. A BOV's purpose is to prevent compressor surge. When the throttle valve is closed, the vacuum generated in the intake manifold acts on the actuator to open the valve, venting boost pressure in order to keep the compressor out of surge. Bypass valves are also referred to as compressor bypass valves, anti-surge valves, or recirculating valves. The bypass valve serves the same function as a BOV, but recirculates the vented air back to the compressor inlet, rather than to the atmosphere as with a BOV.

mythbusters ahoy the vl turbo chutututu is the compressor surge noise. from my post above, this occurs when pressure exceeds well beyond what the compressor can supply. the actual noise comes from the mid air collison of air and pressure that occurs in the pipework. the compressor wheel does NOT spin backwards, this is physically impossible and the physics do not support that behaviour. the compressor does however recieve excessive pressure / force from compressor surge as the wheel surge's each time it gets a massive pressure hit. compressor surge basically shortens the life of the turbocharger compressor wheel. "apparently" after blow off valves or recirc valves were introduced turbocharger failure (compressor wheel failure) rates dropped and service intervals were changed for turbocharger components which is a direct result of using a blow off or recirculation valve.

why hahahah ? it was a serious suggestion there would be dozens for sale, they are cheap, last forever the base power output vs weight would keep it under the rule and almost all of them would have mods, so its still within the rule (based on factory specs)

doesn't exist in victoria that i know, its a NSW only thing you can ask RACV to do a pre purchase inspection or some workshops can do it for you or even some select sau vic members can come and check out the car for beer

the GTR air temp sensor is the same part # as the water temp sensor that the ECU uses so find the part # for that and away you go be sure to note there are two water temp sensors one will be the for the ECU (this is the one you want) and the other is the dash gauge

check all the fuses in engine bay in dash (right side of steering wheel) in the boot (ECR33)

GTR BOV on RB25DET is a good upgrade and very suitable 2nd hand GTR BOV's usually sell quickly and are worth $ there is no such thing as "backspin" with no BOV the physics do not support a compressor "spinning backwards" so please, no more mythbusters

good to hear you got it working niran if you dont have working VCT your car will run like ass you really should get it working

hi compressor surge occurs when the pressure past (after) the compressor wheel exceeds what the compressor wheel can physically supply that is, for a given turbocharger, it's compressor is able to flow xyz amount of air and pressure at xyz speed. this is called the compressor map (it's a chart). if the pressure after the compressor wheel goes higher than what the compressor map dictates (ie higher pressure than what the compressor can physically supply) compressor surge occurs this is usually observed by vl turbo flutter or cuhututututut noises common causes of compressor surge are poor, damaged, mangled compressor wheel - ie damaged, poor highflow spec, incorrect compressor vs housing mismatch (ie botched highflow) no or poor bov system - when you close the throttle body, as there is no bov or poor bov control, the pressure in the intake exceeds well beyond what the compressor can supply typically upwards of 40psi when you close the throttle body without a bov, so the compressor surge's

walbro = timebomb nismo, denso, bosch or tomei for your fuel pump

i had this issue in my R33, the battery light stuck on, not sure if the same as yours, but i replaced the alternator and battery and the light was still on it ended up being a missing fuse in the boot for part of the battery / alternator circuit i have no idea how it was missing what fuse it was or why its in the boot but maybe check the basic fuses in the boot a long shot. from memory i put a ford el falcon alternator on my car as well if thats any help

you keep calling me dmitry, you really shouldnt

why not get a vl turbo ? it would be under the kw rule, cheap, and you have zero chance of finding a stock one, so it should be "fun" i mean 21psi is "low boost" on a vl turbo these days id recommend some good tyres though

at least it was only an egg my gf picked up her new car, 1 week later someone drunk guy in a car threw a beer bottle at while shile was driving nice dent and scratch back the undercoat i used to remember in home eco class in high school, walk up to a guy, slip an egg into his open pocket and then smash your hand on it, kablammo

and are you sure you are using a GTT AFM and not an ER34 N/a AFM ? what boost control are you using ? what is your boost set to? do you have the factory map sensors connected (there are two)

no the standard ones are fine, please do not change them, aftermarket bov's are pointless and no gain i suggest doing some reading of the upgrade threads to avoid wasting $ on pointless changes / upgrades etc

nope. why would it? all it does is recirculate excessive built up pressure when you close the throttle body to prevent compressor surge. there is no perfomance gains to be had from having a given type of blow off valve or recirculation valve. the aftermarket ones are usually ass and either make the car run like ass or make silly noises.

if tuned correctly, nope

stock is bulletproof

agree whatever is wrong is fundamental and something really bad ie loose wiring loom or major plugs loose etc