paulr33

hi jason the newer model includes L or D in the model # as part of the build #'s the original first batch dont include L or D in the model string so you can't tell the only sure way will be to plug it in and view ETC, VERSION there is no loom difference between djetro and ljetro PFC so you won't be able to physically tell the difference

reset stock ecu and run ecu diag sounds like a major sensor is loose, unplugged, toast etc

updated PFC FAQ with airbag how to clear error notes

and here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...l&hl=airbag

BNR34 airbag diagnostic clear procedure;

the PFC doesnt touch or run the airbag, its a seperate stand-alone system there is a way to run and clear the airbad diag, search on the forum by ylwgtr2 or goolge it its a way via the opening and closing the door a number of times and then turning the car on

you will find the 4.11 diff gears plays a big part in how the skyline performs on the street even a mild 200rwkw GTST will take down most street cars with ease and continue pulling slowly this is why you may find you can beat "300kw" badged XR8's etc etc, they have the factory power, but the lateral acceleration isn't there in my 192rwkw GTST ive had only a handful of cars actually beat me on the street from memory a quick as auto vl, and a couple of non-non std xr8's etc on a race track i was able to beat a clubsport R8 315 badged ute from 100 to 200kmh and continued to pull in front ever so slightly

i really like the r34 sound in 2f2f i know its studio mangled and sound engineered etc but it sounds good prolly a big single with a 5" metal intake pipework

agree with hamish %100 ive spent 10k on mine and it still has std turbo etc on it sure ive done stereo and other crap but it all adds up quickly

take a photo of the turbocharger area and post it up, it may give it away it might be running a different actuator vs the std one, so you dont need a controller

theres no way it would be the same unit and part # the rb20de would need jack all fuel flow per hour vs the GTT one makes what 100rwhp and the other makes 250rwhp stock ? you could use the rb25det R34 GTT fuel pump in the R34 RB20DE but not the other way around the rb20de pump wouldnt flow no where near enough for the R34 RB25det GTT engine

dial in as much IGN timing as you can handle without detonation the more timing you can run, the more efficient the engine is, the quicker it will ramp on boost really concentrate on the ramping area - do a map tracer / knock map and find the cells that dont knock enough and advance the timing there

no idea, i'd say nope i brought ER34 coilpacks (by accident) for my ECR33 series 2 and they wouldn't fit

on a side note went down to the global opertion centre for my work today in clayton import city in the car park skyline evo wrx fto lengum skyline skyline supra love it

do you mean ECR33 series 1 & 2? if so, then the plugs are physically different and ER34 has different style of plug again ie you cant use ECR33 series 2 coilpacks on ER34

corey haim died hey poor bugger both coreys were ace in license to drive

You can take that to the bank! I'm gonna take you to the bank, Senator Trent. To the blood bank!

it doesnt make sense, you say you want it for drift (small turbo) then you say you want not heaps of power (small turbo) then you say time attack (big turbo) then you say extra power come in handy (big turbo). which one do you want? it would seem odd to fit a T78 to a std engine, you certianly could do it, but why would you bother? with bog stock everything you would be lucky to tune it at 12psi and not max everything out - aka pointless wait till the car comes over and then check it out if its got all the suppporting stuff on it, sell the T78 and get a mid sized hks GT28x/30x series and away you go, even a pair of GT-SS would be fine but as its already in single mode, its probably cheaper to keep it in single mode

im sure it is and im sure there is plenty of R&D behind it but you gotta ask yourself how is that intercooler efficient to me it says, the minimum intake temp on the outlet pipe will always be 80deg minimum (as its the water temp from the core next to it)

as per my sig

oh ok its only a wet type thingy i was wondering why theyre a bit ordinary in the wet gotcha and all good the left one is almost dead anyhoo really need to shim this stupid diff once and for all to stop it eating 1 tyre painting lounge room this week, looks ace so far

as the others have said, check the state of the tune, check afr's, check complete tune and basic mecahnics etc with 12psi and those mods you should make 200rwkw a walk in the park

im such a noob, my rear tyres are on backwards that is, they rotate opposite to the directional arrow they must have been like this for ages

473 movies and growing any more good movies to get ?

i need your clothes, your boots and your motorcycle